D40 Navara DPF, CAT, MODS etc...

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4BYFOR

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Hello everyone! Well after doing alot of reasearch and trying different things I thought that I would share some of the things that I have been doing on my Navara and hope that this will solve alot of problems for you that I have already gone through...
Ok so what I have done to remove the factory CAT and DPF without having anymore warning lights white smoke etc..
I had a 3" DPF back exahust system installed and had no issues there but my fuel compsumption was terrible! So I had decided to go ahead and remove the whole lot. I started by punching out the CAT guts and had sucuess doing so but it didn't do much just blew a heap of smoke when it was doing a regen cycle so I jumped on here and seen that someone had unhooked their presure sensor to shut down the DPF, what a big F%&*%ing mistake that was.. DPF light came on (death light) I was driving fine for about 2 weeks then BANG limp mode.. I had tried everything it went into Nissan and they tried 5 regens to clear it without sucuess it was FULLY BLOCKED.. Just so you know a new DPF is about $2000 - $3000 F*%#K that. SO after towing my car from where I broke down to Nissan then back to my house I took off the DPF and cut it open removed the guts and got it welded back up for $20. Back to Nissan! Before I did this I asked the mechanic what can I do?! He bascially said the only way to clear the limop mode is to put a new DPF and master reset the computer... OK now finally some light at the end of the tunnel got me thinking to get out of it the cheap way because I need my ute for work is to remove the guts out of the damn thing and get the computer reset.. Ok all done car was working finally after a week off the road.. Not CAT no DPF. SO what I have done now is get a 3" dump pipe turbo back 3" pipe all the way through but I had to get a 3" resinator on the thing after a week it was so loud sounded like a monstor truck. I had to get the fittings made up that the old DPF had except the presure sensors. Reason being. The presure sensors did not need to be plumbed back in but just plumbed togeather so they read the same presure. I will get photos up of the mods done and now that I know people that can make all the bits and peices if you are interested in doing this to your car I can get you all the parts. Anyway I don't have a regen cycle anymore due to the fact that once the computer is reset thinking there is a new DPF with all the new piping in place it willl never read that it's full. No white smoke! So once you have done all your mods just take it to nissan straight away and get a computer reset should only cost you $80 i'd say. Not too sure how muich but mine was alot more costly. The reason I have posted this up is because this is the best way to eliminate any problems like how I had. I will be posting photos and more information on this post as there are too many to keep track of for mods. I hope this helps people out wish I had this post when I was in limp mode :sarcastic:

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Hi 4Byfor

If I am reading your post correctly and I am sure I am coz the pics verify it, you have removed both your DPF and your factory dump pipe and cat.

That being the case your ute will blow white smoke within 200-300 kms unless you drive it regularly at highway speed. If you are driving it around a built up suburban area I guarantee you white smoke will appear.

I have stepped my O2 sensor out and while that has not 100% fixed the white smoke it only does a what I call a 'half burn'. The EGTs goes up and you can smell the unburnt diesel but there is little or no smoke.
 
Yes bosshog, I have done that also must have forgot to add that into my post.. made a 3mm hole at the end of the bung and its spaced out about 5mm from the tip of the probe. I am on my 4th full tank of diesel and i have not seen any smoke besides take off which is quite normal.. but when I was blowing white smoke before my car died in the ass you could really see a cloud..
 
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Hello everyone! Well after doing alot of reasearch and trying different things I thought that I would share some of the things that I have been doing on my Navara and hope that this will solve alot of problems for you that I have already gone through...
Ok so what I have done to remove the factory CAT and DPF without having anymore warning lights white smoke etc..
I had a 3" DPF back exahust system installed and had no issues there but my fuel compsumption was terrible! So I had decided to go ahead and remove the whole lot. I started by punching out the CAT guts and had sucuess doing so but it didn't do much just blew a heap of smoke when it was doing a regen cycle so I jumped on here and seen that someone had unhooked their presure sensor to shut down the DPF, what a big F%&*%ing mistake that was.. DPF light came on (death light) I was driving fine for about 2 weeks then BANG limp mode.. I had tried everything it went into Nissan and they tried 5 regens to clear it without sucuess it was FULLY BLOCKED.. Just so you know a new DPF is about $2000 - $3000 F*%#K that. SO after towing my car from where I broke down to Nissan then back to my house I took off the DPF and cut it open removed the guts and got it welded back up for $20. Back to Nissan! Before I did this I asked the mechanic what can I do?! He bascially said the only way to clear the limop mode is to put a new DPF and master reset the computer... OK now finally some light at the end of the tunnel got me thinking to get out of it the cheap way because I need my ute for work is to remove the guts out of the damn thing and get the computer reset.. Ok all done car was working finally after a week off the road.. Not CAT no DPF. SO what I have done now is get a 3" dump pipe turbo back 3" pipe all the way through but I had to get a 3" resinator on the thing after a week it was so loud sounded like a monstor truck. I had to get the fittings made up that the old DPF had except the presure sensors. Reason being. The presure sensors did not need to be plumbed back in but just plumbed togeather so they read the same presure. I will get photos up of the mods done and now that I know people that can make all the bits and peices if you are interested in doing this to your car I can get you all the parts. Anyway I don't have a regen cycle anymore due to the fact that once the computer is reset thinking there is a new DPF with all the new piping in place it willl never read that it's full. No white smoke! So once you have done all your mods just take it to nissan straight away and get a computer reset should only cost you $80 i'd say. Not too sure how muich but mine was alot more costly. The reason I have posted this up is because this is the best way to eliminate any problems like how I had. I will be posting photos and more information on this post as there are too many to keep track of for mods. I hope this helps people out wish I had this post when I was in limp mode :sarcastic:

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View attachment 4536

Great Work Keep us all posted I am very interested.:big_smile:
 
WOW some of you blokes know your shiit!
I know how to make mine bling that's about it haha
 
Hey 4BYFOR, I think my D40 went into limp mode today whilst the DPF light was on. Can you confirm the symptoms of limp mode being that speed is limited to 80-90km/h and a suffocating noise from the engine if rev'd past 3500? It seemed like the engine was unable to breath and there was no acceleration past 80-90km/h regardless of pedal.

I pulled over immediately and inspected the vehicle and when I stated the vehicle again the problem was gone???

Is this caused by that F#cking DPF?
 
It could be mate but I'm pretty sure if you got it up and going again you drove it for a good 15min to complete the regen? Did the dpf light turn off?
 
Hey 4BYFOR,

Are you saying that when the computer is told the vehicle has a NEW DPF it will not trigger the 300km regen? it will only trigger when the pressure sensors tell it to?

So by removing the DPF and telling the computer you have fitted a new one, the computer will always be waiting for the pressure differential and will never regen/whitesmoke.

When a new DPF has been fitted maybe the computer doesnt do the 300km regen untill the DPF pressure sensors has told it it needs its first regen. Maybe a new DPF is assumed takes a while to clog up so the standard 300km regen is not needed at the start of its life....Maybe maybe??
 
It could be mate but I'm pretty sure if you got it up and going again you drove it for a good 15min to complete the regen? Did the dpf light turn off?

Hey 4BYFOR,

Thanks for the feedback. I think I had a deteriorating turbo line not sealing on the escape gate.

With regards to the DPF, I got rid of that thing and felt immediate power increase and slightly better fuel economy.

I removed the section of exhaust (disconnecting the sensors) with the DPF in it, removed the sensors and cut the top off with an angle grinder and ultra thin disc. I then used a cold chisel and hammer to bash the DPF into smithereens!! Cleaned it out and re-welded the pipe back together. ensuring that the marks I made prior to cutting lined back up so the flanges would meet back with their mates either side. Once sensors were back in, I bolted it back into the exhaust system and started the car.

No DPF Light or problems since.

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Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It all depends on where about's your car was in it's DPF cycle when you did it. If your lucky you got it at the right time and it wont try to conduct a regen 300-400 km down the road. If it does the only thing you can do is refit a working DPF or Change the sensors.

Doing the DPF delete is easy its when the CATS deleted or not working properly than the mayhem really beings. However they still work with a functioning DPF and busted CAT. Not that i'd recommend running that setup.
 
Just booked mine is. Has a Dpf filter.
Went with Scotty's exhaust 3" from turbo back.
Mechanic said is have no problems asking as the light isn't on.
My question is is it worth removing the cat for the extra power? And if so then I guess I'll have To go through the previous process?? Heading away on a trip pretty much 2 weeks after the exhaust is fitted and don't want my car to go into limp mode half way to qld!!!
 
Dpf shit filter

Just booked mine is. Has a Dpf filter.
Went with Scotty's exhaust 3" from turbo back.
Mechanic said is have no problems asking as the light isn't on.
My question is is it worth removing the cat for the extra power? And if so then I guess I'll have To go through the previous process?? Heading away on a trip pretty much 2 weeks after the exhaust is fitted and don't want my car to go into limp mode half way to qld!!!
 
I have not proven this myself but most things I've read on the subject indicate that the stock CAT isn't really an issue as far as restriction goes with relatively sock set ups (ie Just adding a chip). Stock CAT back exhaust tend to work well.

If you remove DPF and replace the CAT with a highlfow jobbie it's likely you'll need to do the sensors. I've fixed a few already with this set up. It really depends on what sort of CAT they go with. Basically the more highflow the CAT the less effective they are for this application.
 
I left the cat on mine and it has no DPF but i had the rear muffler taken off. Very very happy with it. For the sake of all the messing around with changing sensors etc, i personally reckon you should just leave it on.

Just do the dump pipe upgrade. Thats the real restriction.
 
I left the cat on mine and it has no DPF but i had the rear muffler taken off. Very very happy with it. For the sake of all the messing around with changing sensors etc, i personally reckon you should just leave it on.

Just do the dump pipe upgrade. Thats the real restriction.

Honestly, Unless where going for 100% max power i think that's good advice and i'm selling the sensors!! Personal preference really. If you want to run full aftermarket exhaust and big power chip then you'll need the sensors. Otherwise what Cobez says is plenty. Also if you stuff up your DPF delete (its smoking and DPF light on) and dont want to re install a working DPF my sensors will fix that too.
 
Agreed! I just did the simple upgrades (turbo pipe, exhaust, EGR, provent catch can, and air filter for onroad / paper filter for offroad) just for all round nicer driving and response.

Personally, my Nav goes camping and minor offroad stuff so thats all i need. If you DO hit the tracks for some winch situation driving, then yes, chip, cat delete etc would be a good idea, but definantly not essential. Like you said auggie, personal preference is all it is. Navs can do with, or without. If you have the cashola to spend, then go for it!
 
And there are super simple maintenance things you can do to ensure smooth engine idle etc. Such as slide the air sensor out of the airbox to turbo pipe, give it a good spray with contact cleaner (trust me it works nicely) and do an ECU reset which means just disconnecting the negative battery terminal, turning the ignition on, wait 15 seconds, turn the ignition off, reconnect the battery. I just did this because of the air intake upgrades, my idle was a tad off and this cleared that up.
 

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