Glazed brakes?

Ok, so I went for the body lift inspection last week and failed it because my rear brakes weren't upto scratch. So I've tightened the shoes, bled and flushed the brakes lines (found an air bubble!)
The last thing in my list is to check for and rectify and glazing of the pads.

So my question is, how can I fix the surface of the pads and the drum? I was thinking of very lightly hitting the pads and drums with some fine sand paper. Is this the right way to go about it?

That's what I would be doing. Emery on the drum & anything on the shoe, even rubbing on concrete!
Just check the drum is not scored.

joe2006 said:

That's what I would be doing. Emery on the drum & anything on the shoe, even rubbing on concrete!
Just check the drum is not scored.

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Will do. Thanks. From memory, from last time I had the drums off, they weren't scored, but I'll be sure to pay extra attention.

I think the shitty old Bendix pads glazed my disks.

Worst pad ever.

My old rodeo had this. My mechanic said he just used emery paper to fix it up.

If you've replaced the pads/shoes just rough up the steel contact surface with some sandpaper, have done this on my cars, 4WD's and even my Mountain Bike (which is quite bad for it, but easy to access), a light sanding on the MTB makes a massive difference.

Same applies to the car, but on the rears you'll probably barely notice. If its the fronts you'll notice it more, but if its the fronts go to your local ABS brake shop and ask for the best pads who cares how much dust them make. General rule, the more dust, the better the brakes are working.

Ideally i fit japanese performance metal pads to most of my cars, and just replace my rotors (coz they're cheaper than the pads). The make a lot of dust, they chew out rotors, but the stopping power is second only to ceramic brakes for onroad use. Obviously it's difficult ot get these for your 4WD but sometimes people get lucky with part numbers etc.