spongey brakes
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LLadnar
Member
Your car may have suffered from brake fade in its life, where the brake fluid could have boiled, this can make your brakes spungy and less responsive. Try bleeding your brakes and changing the fluid.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Welcome to the forums.
If you ask some people it's standard for all D40 brakes to be shit, wear out quickly and generally be like chalk. But there is becoming more of us who are finding that that isn't the case which can only lead to different driving habits being the culprit.
If you ask some people it's standard for all D40 brakes to be shit, wear out quickly and generally be like chalk. But there is becoming more of us who are finding that that isn't the case which can only lead to different driving habits being the culprit.
Aussie Frontier
Member
I have swapped out the stock brakes on the front of my 06/07 D40 to DBA rotors and ceramic pads. It will still feel spongy compared to other vehicles but you do get used to them.Once you get away from the soft stock pads it does feel better.
Just be careful if your swapping your brake fluid by yourself if you havent done it before on a D40.Some find it difficult to bleed them properly due to the ABS.
I was also warned against swapping out my fluid as some have found they need a new master cylinder after swapping out the fluid.
I have no idea what would cause this but it was a brake specialist that told me . Not trying to scare you off but would rather let you know some have had issues .
I play with mine on a racetrack so torture the brakes differently to most. If I want them to really lock or pulse on the ABS stab the pedal HARD. If you want just firm stopping dont be afraid to slowly press fairly hard. It will stop you even though at first it really feels wrong.
Might pay to get a brake specialist to check it out first. Could be thats just how the brakes are on that truck .
You can also adjust the rear proportioning valve to get a better feel
Just be careful if your swapping your brake fluid by yourself if you havent done it before on a D40.Some find it difficult to bleed them properly due to the ABS.
I was also warned against swapping out my fluid as some have found they need a new master cylinder after swapping out the fluid.
I have no idea what would cause this but it was a brake specialist that told me . Not trying to scare you off but would rather let you know some have had issues .
I play with mine on a racetrack so torture the brakes differently to most. If I want them to really lock or pulse on the ABS stab the pedal HARD. If you want just firm stopping dont be afraid to slowly press fairly hard. It will stop you even though at first it really feels wrong.
Might pay to get a brake specialist to check it out first. Could be thats just how the brakes are on that truck .
You can also adjust the rear proportioning valve to get a better feel
spongy or fading brakes could also be a master cylinder in need of some new orings
aussie frontier
the master cylinder replacement has to do with the seals in it possibly being of a type of rubber that is incompatible with the new fluid you are using - run into it all the time on the airplanes at work - different material orings depending on what fluid we are sealing (fuel/engine oils and 3 different hyd fluids due to the different aircraft types)
so you actually only need to replace the seals most likely
this being said according to the tech manuals i have state you cannot disassemble the master cylinder to reseal it - i am surprised by that how - did they put it together???? (yes this thinking at work sometimes ends up in a table covered in springs and teeny tiny little gears and washers and screws etc etc)
aussie frontier
the master cylinder replacement has to do with the seals in it possibly being of a type of rubber that is incompatible with the new fluid you are using - run into it all the time on the airplanes at work - different material orings depending on what fluid we are sealing (fuel/engine oils and 3 different hyd fluids due to the different aircraft types)
so you actually only need to replace the seals most likely
this being said according to the tech manuals i have state you cannot disassemble the master cylinder to reseal it - i am surprised by that how - did they put it together???? (yes this thinking at work sometimes ends up in a table covered in springs and teeny tiny little gears and washers and screws etc etc)
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LLadnar
Member
The reason you would need a new master cyl is because, when you release the bleed screw the pedal will travel down farther then it ever has during normal operation, where the seals can! (sometimes) get damaged on build up in the cyl. Try not too let the pedal go down any more then it normally would.
I also have upgraded to DBA slotted rotors and bendix ultimate 4wd pads
I upgraded after nearly running up Old Tonys ass on a outing, after coming down a very long steep descent and lost my brakes.
I also have upgraded to DBA slotted rotors and bendix ultimate 4wd pads
I upgraded after nearly running up Old Tonys ass on a outing, after coming down a very long steep descent and lost my brakes.
joshman
Member
LLadnar said:
This is pretty much the same advice given to me by a mechanic friend, when doing anything with the brakes, only push the pedal down a maximum of half way, or you'll end up causing damage to the seals in the master cylinder and be needing to replace it real soon.
Aussie Frontier
Member
The guy at the brake place didnt go into it apart from warning me to think carefully before dropping the brake fluid.
I would have thought we would by default be putting back in the same grade fluids we took out. Apparently the Pathfinders are worse than the Navara's
Stuffed if I know
I would have thought we would by default be putting back in the same grade fluids we took out. Apparently the Pathfinders are worse than the Navara's
Stuffed if I know
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