turbo trouble

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ljacko78

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Hi guys,

First post, but have been scouting the forum for a few months. Everyone seems well supportive and offer good tips. And sweet utes too!

Issue - have had gaskets EGR replaced with 40k on clock, and no worries since. Recently (now 80K on clock) installed 2 3/4" exhaust and snorkel which was awesome for power and reduced turbo lag. Worked great for a month solid. Then lost a good 30-40% power and after dyno check, what I'm calling a air pressure sensor (??) on hose outlet between turbo and EGR is apparently busted. New part arriving on Tuesday, but has anyone else done similar mod's and had same problem? No one i know has had same issue.

Thanks

Lj
 
possible that you have suck in some oil and its fouled the boost/air pressure/map sensor.
these engines NEED a decent catch can.
 
well the turbo boost sensor was replaced today. Seems to be working as well as it was before it broke. Less turbo lag, quicker acceleration.

Did a dyno test tho after part installed, 3rd gear at 5kph/5 sec. Engine specs reckon 98kW. My results ended up with only 76kW and I have a better exhaust. I did get 490Nm torque compared to spec of 200Nm.

Thoughts anyone?? thanks
 
dyno's can lie ;) depends on if the account for the gearing. engine power is only a rough estimate due to all the losses of the drivetrain.
then theres how much calibration the operator puts in.

if its going as good as before it went faulty then it sounds like you have fixed the problem.
i would fit decent catch can to stop the oil getting into the intake.
 
well the turbo boost sensor was replaced today. Seems to be working as well as it was before it broke. Less turbo lag, quicker acceleration.

Did a dyno test tho after part installed, 3rd gear at 5kph/5 sec. Engine specs reckon 98kW. My results ended up with only 76kW and I have a better exhaust. I did get 490Nm torque compared to spec of 200Nm.

Thoughts anyone?? thanks

well firstly, a dyno change it's results from day to day, tempreture make's a difference everything dose.

second did you do the dyno test your self on your dyno?
because if you did have you been doing it for long?

as if you have a look on the ratio's on most diesel 4wd 4th gear is about 1.000, so you putting your car in 3rd gear in an inaccurate hp and torque reading. so do it in 4th next time and it is a more accurate reading.

thirdly when your putting a car on the dyno you loose a certain amount of power through your drive train. this is just an example if you have a 110kw navara you should be getting between 100 and 110 rwhp, so the difference between kilawatt is about what you loose through the drive train.
and there is 1.34 hp in a kilawatt
 
thanks for everyone's thoughts...

Kickars2:
No I didn't do the dyno test myself. It was done by Dynolink in Townsville whom by all reports have a good rep up here.

Understand your point about the different temp conditions affecting test results etc. Other dyno's I've seen for D22's are in 3rd gear so I assumed that was right, but your comment about using 4th gear instead of 3rd makes sense too.

It's running OK again so I will leave it at that with eyes out of a catch can as suggested from Tweak'e

Thanks all.
 
yes.

while the 2.5 doesn't seam to have such a problem of blowing oil out, the 2.5 have a maf sensor which oil from the breather can foul up.
IMHO all diesels could do with a decent catch can. even some of the big truck engines have them fitted as standard.
 

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