DIY Leaf Spring change over...HELP

G'day guys,

I am in the process of removing old leaf springs and replacing with Iron Man heavy duty gear.

I have been able to remove the rear shackle and u bolts pretty easily but have been stumped by the front spring hangers on both sides.

I have loosened the bolt which goes through the hanger (and the loop in the front of the leaf pack) but the bolt will not come out no matter how hard I yank, bash or swear.

It feels like the rubber bushes have become stuck on the bolt and won't let it come out. Does anyone have any idea how the hell I get the bolt out? Will heat work??

Any tips or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Tim

Maybe just soak it with CRC/WD40 overnight and try again in the morning?

Sometimes walking away is better (and cheaper) than putting the hammer through a window ha ha.

Thanks Jason. I have soaked it in Inox.

I think I'll take your advice about walking away for the night ... I don't want to be posting another question tonight about how to replace the driver's side window!

Common problem. Have you tried using the hammer and a drift to knock the cam shaped side round so it rotates? Have you used a sledge and a wood drift trying to knock it out?

Have tried belting the bolt with a drift but the exhaust prevents a good swing on one side and the petrol tank is on the other side.

I've tried twisting the cam with some multi grips. I'll try a hammer. Thanks Pro Nav

lever instead of bash? i can't recall having much trouble when i did mine.

Had the same problem with one of mine recently.
My new springs came with bolts, bushes etc so i ground the old one off.
After you've taken the nut off grind the thread back to flush with the hanger (inside)
On the outside drill out the weld that holds the shaft of the bolt and the big cam shaped head together.
The hole behind the head is huge so you should have heaps of movement once the head is off. If you have split bushes you can put the outside one in through the hole to make it easier to get the spring into the hanger.
I assume you have removed the 12mm bolt that bolts the cam shaped head to the hanger to stop it turning?

Hope this helps, If it makes no sense let me know and I'll take some pictures.

I have levered and bashed to no avail woznme. Its been soaking overnight. Am about to have another go.

If that doesn't work, I will do as Simon has suggested. I thought about cutting the bolt/pin last night but thought I would have to then wait and go to the wreckers to get a replacement cam/pin setup. Simon's idea will be heaps easier. I didn't get bolts with my kit, but I should be able to get hold of some high tensile numbers that will do the job.

Thanks guys, I'll let you know how I go.

Tim

just did this aswell
had to get the lpg torch out and cook the rubber bush until the pin would come out, then grind the rusted/siezed crush sleave off the pin
absolute pain in the ass

How did you go Tim?

It's just over $35 for some replacement Ironman greasable pins. Good investment.

Had the exact same problem when I did mine a couple of weeks ago. We could twist it 360 deg and still not break the bond! Had to use the oxy torch to melt the rubber bush out, then clean up the pin because it was covered in rubber. Lucky the side near the fuel tank just slid out easy...not sure what we would have done otherwise.

Guido

Wouldn't budge.

I'm a hack at the best of times and my favourite tool is a reciprocating saw with a long blade, so...

I cut the pin both sides of the old leaf (on both sides of the ute - neither would budge).

Because the thread sticking out was about M10, I thought it would be a straight up replacement with a 100mm M10. Of course it wasn't, More like M18 shank tapered down to a M10 thread.

Have been at work today but managed to swing by a high tensile bolt place and picked up 2 x M18 high tensile bolts which will fit perfectly. To get a long enough shank without thread (so as not to chew the bush out) I went for a 130mm bolt and cut it down to 100mm. Just need to clean up the cam and drill an 18mm hole in the centre (and bore out the hole on the other side to take the bigger bolt).

The cam will really just act as a washer now (with a through bolt). With the bigger bolt, tts probably heavier duty than standard.

Pain in the arse, but a couple of lessons learned. Should have it back together if I get some time tomorrow. Will look at greasable pins later but just need to get it back on the road. It'll be bloody well greased so should come back apart easily enough. Bolts were about $10.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will let you know if I come across any more problems.

Tim

Sorted.

I finished it yesterday. Once I bored the 18mm holes, everything went together like a dream.

The hangers now have M18 through bolts with the cam thingy just acting as a washer. Not exactly sure of the benefit of the all in one cam/pin setup anyway. I have seen heaps of other makes and models that are through bolted from the factory.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

PS Jason, what are doing with that filthy Storm picture??? GO YOU MIGHTY EELS!!

No way mate, Storm all the way.

I hope anyway ha ha.

Hi guys, sorry to restart an old thread,

Im about to change my rear shocks but i just want to ask afew questiosn to help me out.

Where does the original springs ( d22 duel cab ) stand compared to the Ironman load chart? eg, 20% = Comfort......40% = Extra Constant Load.

Unloaded, what is the cause of bad ride quality? is it that the springs are too SOFT and the rear is bottoming out OR is the springs too HARD and not absorbing any impact at all?

Im not sure so i cant really buy new springs just yet.

AND when i do buy new springs, is just a remove and replace situation or would i need new bushing etc etc etc..

Thanks for everything guys,

Simon

Oh shit......please dont open it!


Valid questions though. Perhaps ask them of your supplier as to what is required in terms of bushes / pins etc to fit new leaves.
Yes they are just a matter of jacking up the reaer end and removing the old and in with the new.
Ride quality is very subjective and is dependant upon how you use the vehicle.
Springs carry the load
Shocks control how the spring reacts to road surface.

yer i know that springs carry load etc etc

but i cant pinpoint the cause of ride quality,

Springs too stiff = harsh ride when unloaded

OR

Springs too soft and bottoming out = harsh ride quality.

Which one is it?

This is a stock D22 DuelCab with standard alloy bullbar and canopy.
normally driven unloaded.

Cheers,

Simon

Simonness said:

Where does the original springs ( d22 duel cab ) stand compared to the Ironman load chart? eg, 20% = Comfort......40% = Extra Constant Load.

Unloaded, what is the cause of bad ride quality? is it that the springs are too SOFT and the rear is bottoming out OR is the springs too HARD and not absorbing any impact at all?

Click to expand...

Primary cause of bad ride quality is springs which are too hard.

Ironman springs typically are marketed by the amount of weight you can have in the tray whilst still having the standard unloaded ride height; that is, they're all harder than the standard springs. But you also have to consider that leaf springs have a progressive spring rate, so it's not really an apples for apples comparison.

Simonness said:

Springs too stiff = harsh ride when unloaded

OR

Springs too soft and bottoming out = harsh ride quality.



Cheers,

Simon

Click to expand...

Leaf sprung ute= shit ride period.

Pick one that suits the majority of use and learn to live with it.

Simonness said:

yer i know that springs carry load etc etc

but i cant pinpoint the cause of ride quality,

Springs too stiff = harsh ride when unloaded

OR

Springs too soft and bottoming out = harsh ride quality.

Which one is it?


Cheers,

Simon

Click to expand...

To answer that question put about 400kg in the back and if the ride quality gets better then the springs are too hard for unladen driving.
If your fillings rattle out then your sitting on the bump stops....easy