horrible squeaking

hey guys I've got a 89 d21 single cab 4x4 I've only just brought it only has a 110000 km's on the clock it's in mint condition but I've just noticed the last few days there a squeak that's getting worse and worse and only really dose it when the cars hot and down make the sound if the cars under load it sounds spot on to a fan belt squeak but just from the rear end any one know what the issue could be !?!?! thanks guys

You sure its from the rear end? I suppose it could be the bushes on the suspension. Not sure why the engine being hot would make a difference. Under load makes sense.

If the engine is heating up more when under load, it means that there is something in the cooling system not quite working as it should. What engine do you have?

Mine gives a squeak when the aircon is on. Doesn't happen constantly, but whenever the compressor kicks in, squeals a bit and then settles down. Turn the aircon off, stops.

Other things on the belts are:
alternator - unlikely
power steering - seems unlikely.


I guess could also be the fan? It's got a hydraulic clutch that kicks in when it heats up. It sits on the outside of the water pump. If it's putting extra pressure on the water pump which is causing the squeak, you'll want to get on to that. It also matches with engine getting warmer, perhaps?

yo cheers for the advice was looking and relised the center drive shaft bearing is ****ed! so gota book it in some were or anyone know if its that hard to do? cheers guys!

Ahh, yeah, pretty common I believe. mines a little worse for wear. I think it requires a press to fit the new one. Dion might be able to say if he pops along here sometime.

It's not too hard I just changed mine not long ago and
didn't need a press.
If you do it yourself just make sure you mark both halves
of the tailshaft so you can put it back together the same way.

How long did it take you, cwolf? Any hints?

True, you usually don't need a press. Sometimes you do if it's a real c***. One certainly makes it quick and easy. The workshop manual says to replace the staked nut but workshops will usually reuse it if they can. You need a socket bigger than your standard 6-19mm 3/8" drive set, if you've got a 1/2" drive set you'll probably be right.

Genuine ones are expensive but last a long long time. Non-genuine, it varies, but you can buy a lot of non-genuine ones for the price of a genuine one. If you flog out another one within 12 months, replace your engine and trans mounts.

would anyone know witch way it gose on my old one was that ****ed that there was no way off telling!?

and cheers heaps for the advice guys!