Hard to shift into 1st

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tezza

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Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone else is experiencing a similar problem on their utes.

The D40 I have seems to be hard to shift into first when stationary. It appears that when its hard to shift and I back it into neutral then shift it, it goes into first a bit easier.

I believe the clutch has been changed to a solid flywheel so Im not sure if this is the issue, or if I should change the gearbox oil first.

Thanks
 
Is it worse when its cold and then free's up once the car is at normal temp and you have driven a while??

Changeing the gearbox oil wont hurt and isnt expensive, so i would definitely change it for the correct spec oil and maybe throw in a tube of NULON smooth shift while your at it.
 
Some places are putting in thicker oil (90) when they change the flywheel to a solid mass to try to dampen any gear chatter and vibration. this may be the case so starting with the correct recomended oil and some nulon as nathan suggested would be a good start....
 
I've got a similar problem.
2007 D40 YD25 TD Spanish build.
I believe it has been upgraded to a single solid mass fly wheel on it.
It all started when I changed the tyres from original 30inch to 32inch and went on a weekend light 4wding.
I began noticing it hard to put into gear mainly when down gearing as if the clutch wasn't engaged properly. When engine is off it changes gear fine. Then I was lead away from thinking it was the clutch I began looking at the transmission (oil level checked and fine).
Until today, I started engine in neutral. Engaged clutch. But couldn't get into reverse let alone any gear, but noticed when trying to put in reverse with foot off brake vehicle rocking back a little. Then turned off engine, could then shift gears no problems. Left gear in reverse, engaged clutch (all the way pushed in) and started engine. Vehicle bunny hoped back (began moving) as if the clutch wasn't fully engaged.
Had to take another car out.
Any ideas.
Anything to do with oil? Although it has been the same oil prior to purchasing it 6 months ago, don't see why it would be a problem now.
 
Oil level fine.
Bled the clutch also.
Still got problem.
I verified that the withdrawal arm moved as far as possible when clutch pedal fully engaged. I done this by verifying it position after putting a spacer 5mm spacer between operating cylinder and withdrawal arm, but no further movement. Meaning that the withdrawal arm was all the way.
Must be inside the clutch housing!
What do ya think.
 
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