Post your dyno charts here

I know not too many of us here have got their truck dyno'd but i thought it might be good to see the results of those who have, especially those with the gas mod.

This is mine done at AMMS at Sandgate (QLD)



110rwhp at about 2000rpm isn't too bad!

The red line is before the 3" exhaust, the blue line is after. I actually lost HP at the top end, not that I care, I don't use that much. I don't understand what the 'tractive effort' scale relates to.

I haven't had it dyno'd since the chip went on, I will post that up when it gets done.

Great idea for a thread Matt, with regard to Tractive Effort:

Tractive force - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Types of tractive efforts

When a figure for tractive effort is quoted in technical documentation it is either for the starting tractive effort (at a dead start with the wheels not turning) or as the continuous tractive effort which will be quoted at a particular speed.

Maximum tractive effort

The maximum tractive effort[1] is the maximum pulling force a vehicle or machine can exert under any (non damaging) conditions. In general the maximum tractive effort will be obtained at a standstill and/or low speeds.

A variety of factors limit the maximum value:

* The maximum tractive effort cannot exceed the 'Tractive mass (m)' x 'the coefficient of friction' (μ) . If a vehicle attempts to supply more force (Ftractive>μm) this will cause Wheel spin[note 1].
* The gear ratios of drive components.
* The maximum power capable of being supplied to the drive systems.
* The safe working torques of the drive system components.

Continuous tractive effort

The continuous tractive effort is the tractive effort which is supplied at a given velocity. It may refer to the tractive effort required to keep a vehicle rolling without acceleration or the maximum force that can be produced at given speed.[2]

Because of the relationship between Power (P), velocity (v) and force (F) of:

P=vF or P/v=F

the continuous tractive effort is inversely proportional to the velocity for constant power; the continuous tractive effort is therefore dependent on the power at rail[note 2]

In vehicles which have a power source (diesel engine, electrical supply etc) which is limited in terms of maximum total power (including steam engines[note 3]) the maximum continuous tractive effort at a given speed is limited by the engine's power.

Continuous tractive effort is quoted as a force at a given speed, and may be presented in graph form at a range of speeds as part of a tractive effort curve[3]

Maximum continuous tractive effort

For vehicles propelled by electric motors the maximum continuous tractive effort can be less than the short term maximum tractive effort[note 4] at a given speed. The maximum continuous tractive effort is defined as:

"the tractive force delivered at full throttle notch (power) after the traction system has heated to maximum operating temperature"[3]

Similar considerations also apply to hydrodynamic transmissions such as fluid couplings and torque converters which create more heat at stall than when free running. (see also Stall torque).

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Hey Guys,

In continuance from my other thread ....

The Green line is Standard
Magenta Line is Diesel Power Chip medium setting
Black Line is Diesel Power Chip on high setting
Red Line is DP Chip on Highest re-configured setting.

Cheers,

DJ

Nav-Pilots dyno results

Here are my Dyno results i had done a few weeks back.
I have a factory snorkel, 3"madrel exhaust with high flow cat & one straight through muffler, & DP Chip.
Lower line is with the chip turned of.
Higher line is with chip on no 9.
The motor seems quite happy at that setting on the dyno.

http://www.navara.asia/images/dto_garage/users/185/1108.jpg

nav-pilot said:

Here are my Dyno results i had done a few weeks back.
I have a factory snorkel, 3"madrel exhaust with high flow cat & one straight through muffler, & DP Chip.
Lower line is with the chip turned of.
Higher line is with chip on no 9.
The motor seems quite happy at that setting on the dyno.

http://www.navara.asia/images/dto_garage/users/185/1108.jpg

Click to expand...

Thats a nice increase mate.

Some nice increases just from the exhaust there Matt. Usable power gains up to around 100kmr, perfect.
Where it tapers off slightly after that, well, no big deal, unless you need the extra few kw for towing at 110kmr!

Good job.

Nav-Piolt NM chart

Thanks Matt.
I forgot to mention that that is rear wheel kw with the 265 x 75 x 16 tyres on.
Here is the NM chart

nav-pilot's Garage :: NAV-PILOT

Matt76 said:

110rwhp at about 2000rpm isn't too bad!

Click to expand...

Still waiting on the chart to be emailed, but I had the Nav on the dyno this morning and achieved the same power as Matt posted (140 HP/105 KW). I am now running a full 3" exhaust from turbo to tail. As for the chip - spent some time fine tuning the settings and I have now leaned the Nav out without sacrificing any power loss. As I suspected winding up the settings on the chip eventually dumps more fuel in with little or no more increase in power output (the law of diminishing returns begins to apply).

I'll report fuel consumption figures next week.

Gus

Bosshog said:

Still waiting on the chart to be emailed, but I had the Nav on the dyno this morning and achieved the same power as Matt posted (140 HP/105 KW). I am now running a full 3" exhaust from turbo to tail. As for the chip - spent some time fine tuning the settings and I have now leaned the Nav out without sacrificing any power loss. As I suspected winding up the settings on the chip eventually dumps more fuel in with little or no more increase in power output (the law of diminishing returns begins to apply).

I'll report fuel consumption figures next week.

Gus

Click to expand...

Bosshog
what chip have you got?

Just Dynoed



Interestinly EGT were about 450 degrees in the exhaust manifold.

Regards

Ash

Thats not loss of traction.
That is either the ecu pulling fuel due to overtemp or some form of cut.

Would be interesting to see air fuel ratio's and boost graphs if any of the shops provided you with this important info guys?

Ashdatto1200 said:

Interestinly EGT were about 450 degrees in the exhaust manifold.

Regards

Ash

Click to expand...

What have you done to it ? To get that much power ?

Run to much fuel and to much boost.
Thats why there is a huge hole in the power graph. The standard ecu is pulling the fueling back due to excessive temp/boost etc...

Probably why it makes more power on the second run without the cut. Let the car cool right down and the ecu wont pull the fueling out due to lower temps.

Like I said. AFR and Boost on the dyno graph or IMO its not applicable.

Sorry to disapoint you!

Hi all

Sorry to dispoint you but the bloke operating the dyno lifted his foot when the traction was lost then he reapplied it . I have spent alot of time engineering my personal car so that it makes torque and horsepower the way it should have come out of the factory.

The ZD30 engines I believe are a strong unit, it is just what nissan has stuck on them gives them a hard time.

The boost pressure is about 16psi. It has a custon turbo from a Friend and a few other things. I have to fuel it pritty hard out of boost but as soon as it gets near 1800 or higher I actually find myself taking fuel and boost out so that the transition is not as violent.

This was the vehicles first time on the dyno and the turbo charger doesn't come into efficiency until 18-22pound. The compressor map is good for about 350hp in the petrol world but the transition into the diesel environment only equates to 250 or so. The trick is controling thermals, resonance and using certain fluid mechanics principles to make a happy camper. It is nice to drive and gets about 9ltrs to the 100kms if you behave.

Here is the AFR so those who thinks it is being sqeezed with fuel.
Also I attach a screen shot of the dyno pull data logging I downloaded.

Regards

Ash

Again! Temps are extremely low and boost 16Psi

Hi

As stated in the title, the intake temps are only about 38 or so degreesC, the EGT out of the head are 450 at 4100rpm odd and the boost is about 16psi. As soon as the moderator validates the image I have attached in the next reply, you will see how much data and development I have been doing.

regards

Ash

A pity I never saw my ute on the dyno, it would have been interesting to verify the seat of the pants improvement from the exhaust I built it.

I did however have my track car on a hub dyno last week, should be much more fun to drive now. Not too shabby for a 24 year old two litre turbo six. This car was supposed to have 140KW at the flywheel when it was new. The tune was to sort out the mapping properly compared to a rough racetrack tune and to lift the boost level up. The before line here was 174KW and 280 odd NM of torque.



I am having a little trouble seeing the hole in the ZD30 curves being a cut, unless the ECU actually has an overboost defence cut? There are no temp sensors in the exhaust that I recall from my ZD30.

Keep this shit coming.

About time someone worked a ZD30 to get some decent numbers.

Sorry about the late approval of the post.

I am interested how something like a navara can break traction on a dyno. either the rollers were wet or something else contributed to it losing traction, might not have been strapped down correctly.
137kw / 184hp i would also like to know what gear it was done in, it should be done in
4th so it gives 1:1 ratio, . Have you changed diff ratios
what engine mods have been done, have you done any head work, plenum chamber, using methanol injection etc what have you done
with the turbo, have you changed the turbines, what sought of cooler are you using

Im not having a go at you,, just asking a few questions out of curiosity,,,,

I have had maybe 5-6 cars break traction on the dyno.

All of them up around 800-900hp......

Its not breaking traction, and if that log is of that run it shows TPS @ 100% the whole run.

When you lift your foot off the throttle for even 1/10th of a second that power will be in the negative range, not positive. The engine will be pulling the drive train back (engine braking) which is counted by any dyno in inertia, not hp.

And holy smokes at the fuel ratio! I cringe seeing anything below about 16:1 down low & 18-19:1 on boost on a zd30.

Are the temp sensors scaled correctly in the motec?

Just to see the difference in graphs, this is what breaking traction looks like as the tyres fry. It starts to slip around 150kph, and is smoking the wheels to oblivion at around 175kph.

I have double checked the sensors and the calibrations.

Hi

I have doubled checked the calibrations in the motec. The 5 EGT are going into an E888 in the engine bay then in to the CAN bus so the data can be used by both the ADL DASH and the M800. In normal circumstances I too would be worried but the EGT's are correct. The factory turbo charger are really only suited for stock everything. I have data logging to support this claim.

I have been slowly developing this over the last few years when time permitts and this was the first time on the dyno. The intake air temperature from the standard turbo with standard exhaust system goes to 140 degrees on occasions but tends to stay around 115-125 and that is about everywhere.
Guys, this is going into your engine and doesn't make for good torque and horse power. Interestinly EGT's on a standard system complete at 100km's like about 550-630 degrees in the port runners. Simply placing a well designed exhaust system on will drop these by up to 150degrees.
Again then a decent intercooler that doesn't just cools but also flows will again drop another 70odd off. So now EGT's with intercooler and exhaust will be about 200 degrees lower but this trick now is that that the intake air system in front of the turbo is so fucked up, (maybe should have said- doesn't lend itself to the correct volume of air transfer). With the standard air system into the standard turbo it will pull a vacuum in the airbox and feed pipe. This intern gives the front seal behind the turbos compressor turbine a hard time. Another thing is the the standard rubber bend into the turbo is not good for flow. Replace the air box and plumbing with something that works! Clean a few casting flaws from inside the turbo compressor cover and exhaust turbine housing and make a bell mouth for the air flow into the compressor impeller. Place a decent controller on. At this stage with no extra boost the turbos compressor efficiency is exhausted as well as the turbine flow. You can squeeze a few lonely horsepower out now by enlarging the waste gate hole till within 1mm of the size of the flap. But there fuckall left. Your EGT's are now dependant on how much diesel you poke into this thing proportional to the volume of air that enters the cylinders. You will find that there is a major difference between the center two cylinders EGT's due the poor flow characteristics of the intake manifold and the log style exhaust manifold. Porting can help but a flow bench should be used to validate any gains you get. Note: don't touch the outside two cylinders intake manifold runners as they far outflow the center two's.

A decent full sequential LPG injection system will enhance the whole experience.

There are really no turbo's that garret produce off the shelf and import into this country that are designed to make efficient torque and horsepower on a three liter diesel. This point will be hottly debated by everyone no doubt.
The fact of the matter is any of the turbos that have the correct flow maps for the compressor end are matched up to a petrol end size exhaust wheel and turbine housing AR. ratio. Guys we are talking about lots of air flow, more than that of a GT25bb type.

Correct me if I am wrong, but if EGT's are low in every cylinder runner out of the head, the AFR's are not near styro for diesel and there is no black diesel soot coming out of the exhaust pipe then the assumption should be this thing can take more fuel. As soon as you get fluid efficiency and correct flame propagation in the cylinder then things are very happy.

I have done about 25000 klms on the current tune and state of my NAV, Highway towing and city driving and a small amount of beach work. It is what it is.

Regards

Ash

Sorry I for got a bit:
CFD simulation on the factory snorkel shows that the faster you drive the more air it restricts into the snorkel. The hoods a aesthetically pleasing but don't work well aerodynamically outside or inside. On the flow bench the hoods are turbulent and the more air that gets draw through them the more turbulent they become.
The snorkel retaining system doesn't lend itself to good flow nor does the bend into the bottom of the guard.

Again
Kind regards
Ash.