D21 tough as teak assistance needed

Mate i need to tap into your depth of knowledge i actually refer to you as the D21 guru in Nissan circles,
mate i have dropped the TD27T into the 92 model dual cab it is running at its leaast effective and still has a ton of guts at least 60% more than the NA 2.7 , it is running without intercooler normal radiator and only 2 inch outlet exhaust i am in the process of replacing all these things to get more in the mean time i am mounting thermo fan actually as i am typing this , there is no room between pulley fan and radiator is it ok to mount on front of radiator? and it sounds stupid but i cant stand electrics although im having a go at it myself i just need to know where there is an available power point for thermo swith that is only ran by ignition , what i mean is that the thermo switch needs a power source that only works in conjunction with the ignition , i dont want to tear my dash out looking for a point wondered if you might know, ok now i saw your mention of sitting on 11okm and doing 3700rpm i dont like this and want to pursue rectifying it diesels like to tic along under not to much stress. Is there a diff i can replace the stock diff with to give better higher end cruising at lower revs , please tell me there is cause it doesnt seem right reving that hard on long trips, i want longevity from my engine.

Okay, first things first - good to hear the engine is in and happy. Something I learnt recently is that Terrano motors have a Japanese spec thermo-clutch on the fan which engages at a higher temperature than the Australian spec. If you are having heat problems, have an australian spec thermo clutch fitted.

I can't see any problems with you mounting the electric thermo fan in front of the radiator, should be all good.

You'd be best off fitting a relay to power your fan. Bring a nice thick wire straight off the +ve terminal of the battery (and equally thick to chassis ground) for power and for switching, I'd recommend piggybacking off the fuel cut solenoid on the back of the fuel pump. That wire will only be live when the ignition is on, but test with a multimeter to be sure.

Bigger tyres are simple and help with your cruise engine speed. However, there are also many diff ratios to choose from. I'm assuming you have the C200 rear diff but you could also have the H233b. In the C200 there is 4.81, 4.675, 4.3 something and 3.9 to choose from. The best way to determine what your current ratio is is to peak under the bonnet at the data plate and publish your axle code here. 3.9 would be ideal but that ratio is only fitted to 4x2 Navaras and therefore a crown and pinion for the front diff are difficult to source. If your pockets are deep enough, hand it to a diff specialist and let them sort it for you but it won't be cheap.

I have toyed with the idea of fitting an R200A diff to the front of my Navara to allow me to fit 3.9 ratio C&P from a C200 flipped front-to-back to maintain turning direction, but I'm unsure whether it's viable and have decided not to worry about it.

sweet

pronav ,

ican get my hands on a few different ratios do you think that 4.3 would be to much for the td27t to turn , do you think that they would labour the motor if i fitted 4.3 front and back ? im pretty sure they are a patrol diff set , also is this thermo clutch in fan easy to replace with an aussie spec one because it sound just like my problem it is just creeping over halfway up hills are they just a thermostat replacement or is it a bigger deal#much appreciated will put pics up soon also

The fan has a clutch assembly behind it. The hotter the temperature, the more inclined the clutch is to grab and turn the fan over. The cooler it gets, the more the clutch slips, so the fan doesn't turn over as quickly = less air flow = less cooling.

Aussie clutches grip at lower temperatures = better cooling for our climate. It's really as easy as replacing the fan unit.

DANHEMP said:

ican get my hands on a few different ratios do you think that 4.3 would be to much for the td27t to turn , do you think that they would labour the motor if i fitted 4.3 front and back ? im pretty sure they are a patrol diff set , also is this thermo clutch in fan easy to replace with an aussie spec one because it sound just like my problem it is just creeping over halfway up hills are they just a thermostat replacement or is it a bigger deal#much appreciated will put pics up soon also

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Not sure how involved the clutch replacement is, never done it. I can't imagine it being too bad compared to an engine swap.

4.3 is fine, they come from factory with that. If it's a patrol diff set they won't fit as patrols have different diffs, the only common diff is the H233b, it's in the front of some patrols and the rear of some Navaras.

Even 3.9 is fine, if the motor is labouring, change down a gear. As simple as that.

oh no

Oh dear ,

Third trip in the new TD27T transplant was going like a dream was pulling up a hill i gave it a little more and pssssssssssst! it just sounded like somethin burst then each time after that when it would rech same point same raspy sound kicked in before hand was whistling beautiful tons of power right through then each time it would rev out and turbo would work a lil harder psssssssst! it now has experienced a power loss turbo is hammering but there i a loss of power and it seemed to use more juice on the same trip done earlier which used less, so just to recap
all was good economy was brilliant turbo was really sharp and giving plenty of boost when it would kick in then suddenly when pushing up a hill at higher end of gear it suddenly reached a point and the turbo sounded raspy not a clean whistle like somethin fizzed almost loss of pressure , now boost is more even and not as effective what the hell has happened ? please help christ im shattered.

Can't help with the diesel and turbo thing, but I replaced the viscous fan clutch on my KA24E (petrol D22) recently. It's a standard Aussie one. I'm pretty sure now that the old clutch was fine, so $$$ down the drain. To cut to the chase, I think I've still got the old clutch floating around here somewhere if you want it for minimal $ (to cover postage mainly). Not sure if the diesel and petrol fan clutches are the same, but if you can find out that it'll do you, you're pretty much welcome to it

Ok i am getting out of shape about this new rig im trying to finish looks like i may have done an impeller blade on turbo , look thats all good im just backing off and havent got the $$$ to rectify that at moment my most pressing drama is my lack of depth in my diffs , long story short it is my every day drive and truth be told the 4x4 it is likely to undertake is minimal , I have 4:8 as per stamped on engine plate i have spent a month trying to find out what diff or diff centre i can swap into mine to give me some range at 110-120kms. I have now bwwn told it is a sailsbury diff and nothing i can swap into it , this is ordinary to say the least , this above everything else has to be sorted even if it meant i could just swap the rear i would steer away from any 4x4 until i could match front also , hearing from a few sources you cant swap another into it really pissed me off a real let down after spendin so much on new engine infact ithink it was the engine runnin so hard at 120kms that may have blew my blades , i thought dont drop bundle until i have confided in the top people on this site who would know for sure so i am pleading with anyone with the knowledge what can i swap into this thing to give me the highway cruising i need and to do the turbo some justice , also any advice about the turbo and my possible options t rectifying this tragedy with the blades which im sure is what i have done when pushing it over 120kms i have spare parts of NA 2.7 if anyone needs em and a calsonic water to air of new engine im happy to part with if people need em.

Just getting back to the thermo fan. You may find that you have an arrangement like the two of mine where the fan clutch does not unbolt from the water pump. You either have to replace the lot or rip the pump apart and reassemble it (means new seals and usually bearings plus special tools).