55L Fridge/Freezer

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At 50W it's a little over 4A draw on our 12V systems. They claim 0.16kW/24 hours which is remarkably low - it's just 160Wh or a little over 13Ah - for a whole day. Either the fridge is incredibly efficiently insulated or they've misplaced a full stop. I'd expect something more like 0.6kWh or 600W = 50Ah per day - I'm wagering a Danfoss compressor (which has the "turbo" function), like a BD35 which draws around 4.5A when running, about 0.2A when idle and has an average duty cycle of around 50% unless you keep opening the fridge (typical for chest fridges, uprights are higher).

They're also rather vague on the cooling ability. 40C below ambient = fair performance. 43C below ambient = typical for Australian (tropical rated) fridges. 45C below ambient = great performance. 50C below ambient = superstar.

However, there's the bloody price. Shit a brick, that's cheap. Add a digital thermometer-controlled temperature rather than the old-fashioned thermostat and it's definitely something to look at. Just watch the power usage - make sure you've got something capable of delivering that much power for the length of time you'll be needing it and I'd say it's a great buy (and I'm an Engel fan - have had one for something like 12 years now and don't regret a single day of it).
 
- make sure you've got something capable of delivering that much power for the length of time you'll be needing it and I'd say it's a great buy

Just out of curiosity, do you have any recommendations? I'm looking to put in a dual battery system and am getting flustered with all the numbers and figures
 
Nev

I just recently put a dual battery system in using only the 250s Cetek dc/dc charger.
80 amp fuse from main battery through 6 bs twin cable to the charger then out of charger to second battery of 105 a/h. Battery in battery box connected via Andersen plug 50A. While I was doing this I also ran the same cable out of charger to back of truck to a vehicle mounted Andersen plug mount, for future when I out a batter in camper trailer.
Just sourcing a solar panel now and will be all set.
The Cetek 250s has both alternator and solar inputs.
Had it in now for a few months did a trip from brissy to cape trib and it hasn't missed a beat.
Hope this helps.
 
Just out of curiosity, do you have any recommendations? I'm looking to put in a dual battery system and am getting flustered with all the numbers and figures

Cable should be 8Ga or bigger. It reduces voltage drop over the length of the cable.

As for the battery capacity, you need to work out how much power you will need for how long you're going to want it.

If this fridge DOES just draw 13Ah in a day, and you want to be "off the grid" for 3 days, you need a battery system capable of delivering 13Ah x 3days = 39Ah. I can't make this less confusing - this is NOT the maximum capacity of the battery, because at most you can only use about 80% of a decent deep cycle battery, so you'd really need a 50Ah battery at an absolute minimum.

This doesn't account for lights or battery age either. Personally I'd look at 80Ah or more for the fridge allowing plenty of room for battery age and error and adding those LED camping lights.
 
MMmm would be good to find out if it has the BD35 danfoss compressor. Bit deals the guys who are selling it are the guys I bought my 160 LPM compressor off the other week for a bargain $99
 
Cable should be 8Ga or bigger. It reduces voltage drop over the length of the cable.

As for the battery capacity, you need to work out how much power you will need for how long you're going to want it.

If this fridge DOES just draw 13Ah in a day, and you want to be "off the grid" for 3 days, you need a battery system capable of delivering 13Ah x 3days = 39Ah. I can't make this less confusing - this is NOT the maximum capacity of the battery, because at most you can only use about 80% of a decent deep cycle battery, so you'd really need a 50Ah battery at an absolute minimum.

This doesn't account for lights or battery age either. Personally I'd look at 80Ah or more for the fridge allowing plenty of room for battery age and error and adding those LED camping lights.

Ok, thanks for that Tony, makes it all a bit more understandable, I've seen a few good looking 120Ah agms on eBay, I'm planning on having a fair few lights and maybe hook up the stereo to it to, I'm right to assume that would do the job?
 
Nev

I just recently put a dual battery system in using only the 250s Cetek dc/dc charger.
80 amp fuse from main battery through 6 bs twin cable to the charger then out of charger to second battery of 105 a/h. Battery in battery box connected via Andersen plug 50A. While I was doing this I also ran the same cable out of charger to back of truck to a vehicle mounted Andersen plug mount, for future when I out a batter in camper trailer.
Just sourcing a solar panel now and will be all set.
The Cetek 250s has both alternator and solar inputs.
Had it in now for a few months did a trip from brissy to cape trib and it hasn't missed a beat.
Hope this helps.

Ctek looks like a good unit, what solar panels are you looking at if you don't mind me asking
 
MMmm would be good to find out if it has the BD35 danfoss compressor. Bit deals the guys who are selling it are the guys I bought my 160 LPM compressor off the other week for a bargain $99

It looks like it certainly is a Danfoss but I can't tell which one. Given the power consumption claimed, I'm assuming the BD35.
 
Ok, thanks for that Tony, makes it all a bit more understandable, I've seen a few good looking 120Ah agms on eBay, I'm planning on having a fair few lights and maybe hook up the stereo to it to, I'm right to assume that would do the job?

Not if the lights are halogens and the stereo has 1200W subs! :rock:

If it's just a few LED lights and a small stereo (like a normal car radio that isn't on for hours on end) then it shouldn't be a problem.

120Ah is a good capacity unit.
 

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