not having fun with my new (old) Navara

bought a navara d22 02 dual cab with zd30 in it. picked up in melb 20k's blew the turbo in it, fitted new turbo that will only boost to 12psi but still went fine. drove it up to Darwin and used 18-20L of oil on the way and kept leaking compression into the radiator. SLOW trip!! got it to darwin and dismantled the car from top to bottom to get the bloody engine out, rebuilt it and now the bloody thing wont peform. It went fine before and at cruising speed of around 90-95km/h returned just on 1000k's from a standard tank. i feel the injectors are fine for the moment and the pump ect was working fine before the motor came out.

Have been driving the car for around a month and a half now and is still not performing but runs a treat, feels like i can only obtain 1/3rd throttle. have checked all of the sensors and they return very acceptable results from info gathered on the net. there are no air locks and there are no faults present from basic dignostic via shorting the diag plug.

Before we pulled the engine out it was fine besides it used oil and blew an amount of smoke after 3k reves under load. talking to heaps of engine rebuilder and they regularly have simlar probs with these vehicles and the earlier patrols. after doing endless research i am under the assumption that they have a learning ecu for wear compensation and i feel it has lost it's memory for the last 180ks. any clues or advice would be gratly appreciated.

afaik about the only thing the ECU learns is the throttle position sensor. leave the battery unhooked for a while and it looses that info.

more than likely something has not been put together right.
i would check the basics, make sure there is no air bubbles in the fuel lines. check the fuel filters not blocked. check butterfly actuators are working properly.
temporary block off egr in case thats been stuck open.

then the hard stuff like crank sensor clearance, make sure camshafts havn't snapped th locating dowel and cam timing has shifted. blocked boost sensor etc.

what boost is it doing at the moment?

blocked up cat? with all that coolant and oil that would have gone through the motor, quite possible the cat is fouled up.

also unplug neutral switch from gearbox and see if that makes an immediate difference.

I think you'll do well by checking the above mentioned items. (particularly cam timing or cat blockage)

Bad luck otherwise.
I would personaly have trouble taking a newly purchased used vehicle away on a big trip without doing a fair bit of mileage close to home beforehand just so your comfortable with the car and fix any shortcommings.

Anyway one lives and learns.
Hope you sort out your vehicle and enjoy many miles of driving soon.

What does disconnecting the neutral switch do?

if the neutral switch is faulty it always thinks your in neutral and it limits the fuel. for some reason a lot of the euro D22's have this problem. usually its more noticeable when you hit 3/4th gear. disconnecting the switch makes it think its always in gear (you willl notice the butterflies operate when the in gear)
its just in case they damaged the switchs on the gearbox when pulling motor in/out.

when fault codes are checked would that show the neutral sensor fault>?????

gun32gtr said:

when fault codes are checked would that show the neutral sensor fault>?????

Click to expand...

no. quite a few sensors are not monitored by the ecu.

so maybe ill try unplug mine also...whats it look like as isnt there a few sensors near gearbox??? will hurt to leave it un plugged??? sorry for hijack

it might hurt the motor if the switch is left unplugged. thats simply because the EGR system will turn on as it thinks its still in gear.

my old man is a diesel fuel injecton dude in regional vic and know basicly everthing bout these types of injection setups, but these have an electronicaly actuated injection pump. if there are no comms via a canbus network to the pump they won't even pump any fuel. doesn't even have a particulate filter anymore cause it was blocked when we got it, so we fixed it. egr system is removed and butterfly's piped accordingly to remain in the open position. it is phisical using no fuel, upwards of 12k's per litre around town driving fairly hard, caus i have to. for comparisons sake it would keep up wit a 2.8 na hilux to 60 then fall behind. have heard about the neutral switch and would like to unplug to see if it makes any diff, which one is it? also we could not get the drive gear off the cam when rebuilding so it is still in it's original possi.

however when lining the cams up, caus we couldn't get that drive gear off so we had trouble timing the cams in, could see the aa but could line up the bb no worries and just made both the cam profile's the same. is this correct or should they be a tooth out ect. it was timed properly by the engine builder but as he said he was scared of breaking the cam shaft. all the clearances are perfect.

fuel supply is good have changed filters even though it was not needed and there are no bubbles ect, the new turbo is limited to 12psi and under load in 3rd-4th gear it will reach that at just before 3250rpm, this figure should be upwards of 15psi i believe but acheiving boost lower in the rpm range, is this correct? getting 6psi at 2000rpm. thanks guys any info is a massive help, short of giving nissan $6000+ for a new pump and injectors.

sounds like boost is way to low.
what do you mean by limited to 12psi? how have you got it limited?

these don't have a particular filter, sounds like you dealt to the cat.

ok so EGR blocked, egr butterfly disabled. i hope you didn't do any crude shit like put ball bearings in the lines. if you have swapped the hoses around then it should be fine. just make sure the shutdown butterfly action still works.

i would go over the cam timing again. these are a little odd in that each cam has inlet and exhaust lobes on it.
a couple of tricks for rebuilding theses. the head bolts are one shot jobs, do not reuse the old ones. the cam bolts have a torque setting, to tight will cause locating pin on the sprocket to break and cam timing will go all over the place. expect bent valves, holes in pistons. might pay (might have been done already) to loctight the cam drive gear onto the cams.

new turbo??........did you have the turbo rebuilt? maybe they have rotated the turbo a bit to much which changes the actuator rods working length ie wastegate may be not be fully closing.

12 psi is all it hits from arond 3200rpm to over four thousand rpm doesn't climb at all. the turbo is brand new unit through a diesel workshop that my brother in law ownes and he installed. was fine before rebuild performance wise but don't know what psi it would push before as i did not have a boost gauge on it.

head bolts were replaces and the rest of the specs were obtained from the rebuilder and would have been torqued accordingly. was timed off a spec sheet which he showed me at the time. all lined up no hassels. the thing is blowing no visible smoke at any rpm and it was before. doesn't make sense. the neutral switch? is there two switches side by side on the drivers side near the gear stick with two wires in them? which one so i can rule that one out.

don't worry there are no ball bearing in any place they don't belong. have removed the pipe totaly and blanked the exhaust-inlet off with plates and gaskets ect. do you do anything with the swirl control valve aswell or leave as it is?

now is it boost low because of the turbo or because engine is not injecting in fuel.
simple test, pull the hose off the waste gate. see what boost it gets up to. you should get 15psi even in neutral.

it could simply be cam not timed right. it sounds like its just not pumping air through the motor. no air means no push on turbo to make boost. or blockage somewhere ie swirl valve jammed shut.

i have swirl valve unplugged ie stays open. i don't think its required when egr is disabled.

im having under powered frustration 2. so annoying... is yours very poor on fuel??im getting about 450per tank

na mate would get 800 ish driving the ring off it. is yours a 3.0turbo or 3.2na? also will try the wastegate disconnected to see if there is any increase. would of suggested that there is not enough fuel there to make the turbo boost up as usual. and there is absolutly no torque. does any one know much bou the pumps that are on the zd30t, i believe they are a bosch vp44 psg5 with edc module on top.

so i have found out they communicate via canbus comms protocol. has anyone tried talking to this and had any luck. i believe they get told how much fuel to pump the relay a msg back from the pump to ecu on how much they did pump. this is possibly how they can compensate for wear. any info would be great

Mate I had a manual but it has no info on the pump besides a description on it.

I gotta burn some tomorrow as I have 10 Pm's about a manual. Had abit of personal crap on so haven't had the time to do them.

Dave.

i just got the pump redone on mine. pump alonr was 2800 and 800 laboutr plus other shit. ended up 4k... 800 thats amazing.. yeh mines 04 turbo zd30..

i know a little bit on the pumps operation. i don't really think it would be a pump problem. the more common problems with any motor is usually the sensors. faulty boost sensor, crank sensor incorrectly installed, wrong temp sensor put in, pump harness not plugged together properly etc.

make sure you haven't over looked the basics like fuel hoses to fuel filter are on wrong way around. or bag stuck in intake, wrapper left on filter.

the problems with the cams throws big question marks about cam timing. guessing on one cams is not good.

checked the turbo by pulling the actuator hose off. it does go above 12psi now but still high in the rev range above 3200rpm or so. still no fault codes. if the keyway on the cam broke and the cam has moved, it would still move because there is nothing to hold it in it's possi, maybe?? if the cam timing was wrong and the timing was out it would be blowing an amount of smoke because the rest of the works are correct. when the crank sensor is unplugged it turns the dash light on and behaves differently to when it is plugged in. it is also new, how could it be installed incorrect?

the ecu learns the tps possibly, how long and any tips for that would be appreciated. also does anyone have a pinout for the ecu and what the wires mean? thanks guys

sounds roughly like turbo might be ok.

when cam pin breaks often the cams move around until the valves hit and then its really messy.
incorrect cam timing may not blow smoke. i was thinking along the lines that it may just be limiting the air flow through the motor which is stopping the turbo from building boost.
crank sensor has a measured gap in between the bit on the crank and the pickup. if its incorrect it can get poor signals which can do all sorts of weird things.

ecu learns TPS, warm up engine and let it idle for 10 minutes and it will correct it self.