3" Suspension for my D22 Navara

hey all,

I am just looking for some advice on the suspension for my D22 Single Cab Navara.

I have been chatting to CalOffroad and he does a 3" Suspension Kit for the D22 Navara which comes in at $1995.

here is the kit -> CalOffroad Products for Nissan Navara D22 <-

plus they are going to throw in some Heavy Duty Tie Rod Adjuster and Idler Arm Steering Brace; which I think is pretty good value for money. The Kit only comes with blocks but I hardly ever carry much weight around much weight so I am not wanting to go new springs if I am going too have too wear a kidney belt while driving around the city?!

Also just wondering with the CV's being at such a big angle, am I going to be up for new CV every 6-12months?

I have seen ZORDO selling 2" kits for around $1290 fitted which comes w/ rear springs that are a comfort which probly would be much better for driving around town and I dont have the CV's at such a large angle.

Guess I am wondering is
a) does the 3" kit really flog out the CV's that bad and
b) is it worh the extra $700 for the 3" kit over the 2" kit?
c) is the 2" kit just as capable offroad as the 3" kit?

Thanks in advance for any advice guys.

That's a big spend for an extra inch.

Not keen on the blocks. They decrease the springs' location of the rear axle. Better off getting custom springs made for the rear with the same rate as the stock springs, but shaped for a 3" lift, plus the arms for the front, and the shocks for the front and rear. Use your stock torsion bars, re-indexed. The custom rear springs will provide better flex.

From the CalOffroad site:

The thicker bar diameter gives a dynamic increase in the spring rate eliminating hard bottoming when off=road and gives better handling on the street.

Click to expand...

Progressive spring rate? I call bullshit. Stiffer springs -> less body roll -> "better handling".

brockbaker said:

Also just wondering with the CV's being at such a big angle, am I going to be up for new CV every 6-12months?

Click to expand...

Depends how much it's in 4x4. If you wheel it hard like Joshy, you can use them up as fast as you like.

thanks pronav,

makes sence what you are saying about the lift blocks, custom or a "add-a-leaf" type setup might be a much better way too go.

I have been told that because I have a bullbar and have just recently added a winch it would probly be better too go a new set of torsion bars rather than continuing too crack up the stock ones? when you say re-index, is that like preloading the torsion bar and refitting the bracket so it sits higher and with heaps more adjustment in the torsion bar again?

A couple of people I have spoken too have said similar things in that I will get similar travel too what you get out of a 3" kit, with a 2" by just shaving or removing the top bump stops? would that be okay?

I am also looking at fitting a body lift with the suspension lift which should help me over come trying to fit larger tyres later on; just while I am on the topic..

with a 2+2 kit, I have been told I should easily be able too fit 285 Cooper ST's and I shouldnt be loading up the driveline too much with those size tyres?

brockbaker said:

...The Kit only comes with blocks but I hardly ever carry much weight around much weight so I am not wanting to go new springs if I am going too have too wear a kidney belt while driving around the city?!

Click to expand...

Spring rate would be the same, so ride shouldn't change much. Blocks can cause spring wrap especially with a torquey diesel, grippy surface and crap factory springs.

brockbaker said:

Also just wondering with the CV's being at such a big angle, am I going to be up for new CV every 6-12months?

Click to expand...

Yes they may wear faster and are more susceptible to damage when on a large angle, but most breakages are from a whell suddently gaining traction.

brockbaker said:

I have seen ZORDO selling 2" kits for around $1290 fitted which comes w/ rear springs that are a comfort which probly would be much better for driving around town and I dont have the CV's at such a large angle.

Click to expand...

Yep, a suspension package as a whole is normally better than shocks from here springs from here, etc.

brockbaker said:

Guess I am wondering is
a) does the 3" kit really flog out the CV's that bad and
b) is it worh the extra $700 for the 3" kit over the 2" kit?
c) is the 2" kit just as capable offroad as the 3" kit?

Click to expand...

1. Prob not if driven softly

2. Nope, use the $700 on a front lokka, will get your heaps further, or a 2" body lift and some 33's

3. I'd say for the price, you could make a much more capable/comfortable Rig (both on and off road)

Going by your mods in your sig, you want to make your rig more capable, yet still comfortable. I'd go for:

1. 2" Lift (from Zordo [would recomend him] or others)
2. Decent tyres (if going 33's then add 2" bodylift)
3. Front lokka
4. Protection (sliders + bash plates + bullbar)

brockbaker said:

makes sence what you are saying about the lift blocks, custom or a "add-a-leaf" type setup might be a much better way too go.

Click to expand...

You can go with add-a-leaf, it's certainly a cheap, legal and viable option, but this will increase the spring rate, and as you have said a lot of the time you are unloaded, you might be looking at an increase in NVH (specifically harshness) and no increase in suspension compliance for flexibility.

brockbaker said:

I have been told that because I have a bullbar and have just recently added a winch it would probly be better too go a new set of torsion bars rather than continuing too crack up the stock ones? when you say re-index, is that like preloading the torsion bar and refitting the bracket so it sits higher and with heaps more adjustment in the torsion bar again?

Click to expand...

You are correct, that is what re-indexing is. In my words, you pull the bar from the splined keyway, rotate it a few splines (not sure how many), and then reinsert and adjust preload bolt to taste. I hadn't realised you had a steel bullbar and winch fitted, in that case it is an entirely sensible option to invest in increasing the spring rate of your torsion bars. You wouldn't crack up the stock ones, but the suspension will feel soft and may bottom out if you push it.

brockbaker said:

A couple of people I have spoken too have said similar things in that I will get similar travel too what you get out of a 3" kit, with a 2" by just shaving or removing the top bump stops? would that be okay?

Click to expand...

Personal choice, not a safety issue like the lift blocks. You're reducing the stops that keep the CV joints within their designed operating range. Increase that range and you're looking at a greater risk of CV joint failure, but some people get away with it - it's your wallet, Your Mileage May Vary.

brockbaker said:

with a 2+2 kit, I have been told I should easily be able too fit 285 Cooper ST's and I shouldnt be loading up the driveline too much with those size tyres?

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285 what? I'm assuming if they're called 285s, they're 285/80 R15s? 33", if you pick the right offset wheel, yes. You can squeeze 35s under there if you try hard enough.

As for loading up the drivetrain, the difference in torsion stress in the driveline components between stock size and 33" is not sufficient to cause concern, you won't blow diffs or transmissions, you might blow CV joints or transfer chains but they're the designed-in weak links so you'll blow them with any tyres if you wheel hard enough.

tommy222220_0 said:

Spring rate would be the same, so ride shouldn't change much. Blocks can cause spring wrap especially with a torquey diesel, grippy surface and crap factory springs.



Yes they may wear faster and are more susceptible to damage when on a large angle, but most breakages are from a whell suddently gaining traction.



Yep, a suspension package as a whole is normally better than shocks from here springs from here, etc.



1. Prob not if driven softly

2. Nope, use the $700 on a front lokka, will get your heaps further, or a 2" body lift and some 33's

3. I'd say for the price, you could make a much more capable/comfortable Rig (both on and off road)

Going by your mods in your sig, you want to make your rig more capable, yet still comfortable. I'd go for:

1. 2" Lift (from Zordo [would recomend him] or others)
2. Decent tyres (if going 33's then add 2" bodylift)
3. Front lokka
4. Protection (sliders + bash plates + bullbar)

Click to expand...

thanks for the post tom.

I definitely dont want to encourage any spring wrag while I am offroad, thats for sure!

You hit the head on the nail when you said that I am trying to make my truck more capable offroad but maintaining comfort; because I am also planning for a Cape York trip towards the end of the year.

I am wanting to setup my truck to be as capable as I can offroad with out doing things that are just going to make it harder offroad instead of assisting me.

The 2" lift is starting to make alot more sence from the advice from what I have received from you guys and with a 2" body I should have heaps of room to put on some 285/75R16's to also reply to point 1 and 2.

The front locker from 4wd systems for the R180a sounds like a very good unit and have heard some very good reviews about it; and I have also been considering some of those 85% reductions gears to help with the locker so I can do things offroad at a nice crawl instead of relying on momentum to get me up the hard stuff. Also if I can save up enough coin, I would love too add a ARB Air Locker to the rear; but I guess we can all have our dreams. ehhe

Talking Protection, I have been looking at the "Suspension Stuff Rock Sliders" -> https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/...=1808&osCsid=849b08b867680b53307259f9ff0275d3 <- as they look like a pretty good unit and I have heard that cause they use a box section of tube that comes from the chassis it increases the strength of them? The other Rock Sliders I have been looking at are from "Bolsys Rock Sliders" but are made completely from round tube instead of some box section from the chassis. Can anyone comment on if, would there strength be similar?

Pro-Nav2.7TDi said:

You can go with add-a-leaf, it's certainly a cheap, legal and viable option, but this will increase the spring rate, and as you have said a lot of the time you are unloaded, you might be looking at an increase in NVH (specifically harshness) and no increase in suspension compliance for flexibility.



You are correct, that is what re-indexing is. In my words, you pull the bar from the splined keyway, rotate it a few splines (not sure how many), and then reinsert and adjust preload bolt to taste. I hadn't realised you had a steel bullbar and winch fitted, in that case it is an entirely sensible option to invest in increasing the spring rate of your torsion bars. You wouldn't crack up the stock ones, but the suspension will feel soft and may bottom out if you push it.



Personal choice, not a safety issue like the lift blocks. You're reducing the stops that keep the CV joints within their designed operating range. Increase that range and you're looking at a greater risk of CV joint failure, but some people get away with it - it's your wallet, Your Mileage May Vary.



285 what? I'm assuming if they're called 285s, they're 285/80 R15s? 33", if you pick the right offset wheel, yes. You can squeeze 35s under there if you try hard enough.

As for loading up the drivetrain, the difference in torsion stress in the driveline components between stock size and 33" is not sufficient to cause concern, you won't blow diffs or transmissions, you might blow CV joints or transfer chains but they're the designed-in weak links so you'll blow them with any tyres if you wheel hard enough.

Click to expand...

thanks again pronav.

I guess I will just have too give a suspension shop a call and see what they recommend best for my ute, weather it be a "add-a-leaf" or it might be cheaper to just get a full suspension kit with some rear leafs and go the comfort option.

I think that I would prefer some replacement torsion bars since I have been cracking up mine for a while now and dont really want them to go *snap*..

That is true about trimming the bump stops. Just have to go with the trial and error method and see how I go. Probly just easier leaving it within the factory limits and playing it safe by adding some lockers instead

Was referring too some Cooper ST 285/75R16's; would love to think I could go some 35's but I have read all about some of the issues that 'joshy' had with stretching transfer chains and snapping CV's like toothpicks, so hoping that 285's should be bigger than standard too help with out doing too much damage. *fingers crossed*

brockbaker said:

Talking Protection, I have been looking at the "Suspension Stuff Rock Sliders" -> https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/...=1808&osCsid=849b08b867680b53307259f9ff0275d3 <- as they look like a pretty good unit and I have heard that cause they use a box section of tube that comes from the chassis it increases the strength of them? The other Rock Sliders I have been looking at are from "Bolsys Rock Sliders" but are made completely from round tube instead of some box section from the chassis. Can anyone comment on if, would there strength be similar?

Click to expand...

Typically as these industrial back block workshop rock sliders are not engineered, it's less of a case of what section they're built from and more a case of how many axially loaded welds there are, etc. Often the section will be what the workshop can get cheap, or what they have the equipment to work on (pipe notchers, etc), or what the person who made the jig likes to use. 99% of the time the section is stronger than required.

Unfortunately the two you're looking at don't provide mounting photos so it's hard to compare the pair for strength. The sliders for both are acceptably over engineered, with the mounts it's impossible to know without photos.

Just buy the cheaper one.

Pro-Nav2.7TDi said:

Typically as these industrial back block workshop rock sliders are not engineered, it's less of a case of what section they're built from and more a case of how many axially loaded welds there are, etc. Often the section will be what the workshop can get cheap, or what they have the equipment to work on (pipe notchers, etc), or what the person who made the jig likes to use. 99% of the time the section is stronger than required.

Unfortunately the two you're looking at don't provide mounting photos so it's hard to compare the pair for strength. The sliders for both are acceptably over engineered, with the mounts it's impossible to know without photos.

Just buy the cheaper one.

Click to expand...

Not to go off topic to much but I do like the "Bolsys Rock Sliders".

And since it is a fabrication business, I would like to think that they would be much stronger structural welds on all the brackets and joints.


With the EFS 2" suspension kit, do many of you guys out there have this package? or could recommend a 2" kit that you have put together yourself?

I jumped on the EFS website and notice that they do a few different shocks.

-> EFS Products <-

Do the different shocks really make that much of a difference in regards to comfort? I know that its a IFS truck but can I make it a nice smooter ride off road and across those outback corrugations??

hi brock,

I have had the EFS 2 inch lift in mine for a year and 25000km now. There are better systems, but for what I wanted it suits me just fine. Think I paid about $900 installed.

IMO - any suspension upgrade is going to be better than the factory crap and will feel very different. Mine was rather tight for the first 5000km till the leafs settled in a bit. When my tub is full with camping gear, its rides very nicely. Mine has now softened a bit so I have some body roll on the tar, but on hills and ruts it feels like it drives well. More stable and softer when off road compared to factory. Corrogations? Again when my ute was loaded it drove well on the corro's. Empty, it was stiffer than factory and not as comfy (expected result tho).

Always before you spend your money, think of what you want your ute to do and how often. IFS will never flex and roll like a solid axil set up, so also be realistic in your expectations. But that said, 2 inch lift and good rubber and you'll get round to lots of good spots.

As for comfort? No harm in asking a TJM or ARB mod about a touring package and see what they recommend. It will be different to the Cal or Snake products that are more designed for lift than comfort. Then go compare to other products for perhaps better prices.

Have fun

Ive had my Nav now for 8 years and just about tried every effort in making it more suitable for offroad use as well keeping it comfortable on the road.

Ive run Cooper ST's 285/75/R16's on a 16x8 steel wheels and I will tell you guys now that you will loose up to around 100km's to a tank of diesel, and that was driving it normally. I can tell ya those tyres didn't last long and sold them after 2000km use.

Another thing to keep in mind is the fitment under the guards. My truck had 2'' body lift and just over 2'' in suspension lift in the front, and those tyres still rubbed on full lock around the street. So you could imagine what it was like off road.

I did trim the mud flaps back, but really to fit those tyres properly with the amount of lift i had still meant I needed to modify the inner guards with a rubber mellot or hammer. And that's one thing I was not prepared to do, just so i could fit those tyres.

There were too many negatives with that size tyre apposed to positives. Must admit they look good when the truck is sitting straight but don't sound good when rubbing.

I also had a set of BFG 32 muddies. they had seemed to run ok and I wasnt buring the juice like the 285's did.

In the end of the day boy's, like the other bloke said it's your wallet.

thanks for the feedback boys.

The 2" EFS w/ a 2" body still sounds like a goa; but I still heard some really good points to the 3" caloffroad kit.

Could I please have some feedback from people that are running the 3" cal or snake suspension kits and how the kits have performed offroad plus tell me if it was money well spent or if you have the chance again would you just go the 2" suspension?

I realise that it puts the cv's on more of a angle but since I only go offroad every now and again, and keeping in mind that its no rock crawler and I dont abuse the truck when I am offroad, surely the kit would be okay; also wouldnt I gain about 1" of down travel with the aftermarket shapped upper control arm?

brockbaker said:

Was referring too some Cooper ST 285/75R16's; would love to think I could go some 35's but I have read all about some of the issues that 'joshy' had with stretching transfer chains and snapping CV's like toothpicks, so hoping that 285's should be bigger than standard too help with out doing too much damage. *fingers crossed*

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Depends on what sort of wheeling your doing. If your not rockcrawling and looking at tracks saying i bet i cant get up there but ill try anyway and you dont have a heavy foot then i dont think youll have an issue with the 35's.
But again is 35's what you need, if your more into touring type stuff i wouldnt worry about 35's and reduction gears.

cheers joshy

I just thought that 35's would be a really good way to get some excellent ground clearance with the added help of a suspension kit; but just didnt want to go that big if I was going to be stretching transfer chains, but by what you are saying if I take it easy it should be sweet and I shouldnt really stretch the transfer chains hey.

I mainly like just doing touring stuff with a little hill climbing but if I come across a track that looks like it could be fun, I dont mind giving them a crack either.

When you put in the reduction gears joshy, did you find yourself only really using 4L for rockcrawling type tracks? since it would of reduced the overall speed from around 50 to 10km/h it would of been really slow getting around other tracks wouldnt it?

just quickly, I have read through your "SAS underway" thread a couple times and read that you were thinking of buy and fitting the aftermarket upper control arms but could never find if you actually ended up trying them out?

would any of the d22 owners out there please be able to give me your review of the 3" suspension kits??

I have read that alot of you guys bought the kits, but there isnt much feedback from your own experience with them?

I have read that some of you loved the lift after it was fitted, but I would really like to hear your feedback of the suspension now that some of you have had them in for about 6+ months now.

cheers.

brockbaker said:

cheers joshy

I just thought that 35's would be a really good way to get some excellent ground clearance with the added help of a suspension kit; but just didnt want to go that big if I was going to be stretching transfer chains, but by what you are saying if I take it easy it should be sweet and I shouldnt really stretch the transfer chains hey.

I mainly like just doing touring stuff with a little hill climbing but if I come across a track that looks like it could be fun, I dont mind giving them a crack either.

When you put in the reduction gears joshy, did you find yourself only really using 4L for rockcrawling type tracks? since it would of reduced the overall speed from around 50 to 10km/h it would of been really slow getting around other tracks wouldnt it?

just quickly, I have read through your "SAS underway" thread a couple times and read that you were thinking of buy and fitting the aftermarket upper control arms but could never find if you actually ended up trying them out?

Click to expand...

If your really only touring youd be better off sticking to 33's. If your that worried bout the chain, when/if you get reduction gears put them in a d21 transfer case and just swap them over, you could prob get one off ebay for $50 then you dont have to worry about the chain. Only used low for crawling and taking off on dirt hills. with the 35's on, off road hill starts or slow hill climbs in hi range were impossible.
Didnt bother with the upper arms, not worth the money.

brockbaker said:

hey all,

I am just looking for some advice on the suspension for my D22 Single Cab Navara.

I have been chatting to CalOffroad and he does a 3" Suspension Kit for the D22 Navara which comes in at $1995.

here is the kit -> CalOffroad Products for Nissan Navara D22 <-

plus they are going to throw in some Heavy Duty Tie Rod Adjuster and Idler Arm Steering Brace; which I think is pretty good value for money. The Kit only comes with blocks but I hardly ever carry much weight around much weight so I am not wanting to go new springs if I am going too have too wear a kidney belt while driving around the city?!

Also just wondering with the CV's being at such a big angle, am I going to be up for new CV every 6-12months?

I have seen ZORDO selling 2" kits for around $1290 fitted which comes w/ rear springs that are a comfort which probly would be much better for driving around town and I dont have the CV's at such a large angle.

Guess I am wondering is
a) does the 3" kit really flog out the CV's that bad and
b) is it worh the extra $700 for the 3" kit over the 2" kit?
c) is the 2" kit just as capable offroad as the 3" kit?

Thanks in advance for any advice guys.

Click to expand...

hey go to snake racing and have a look at there 3' x flex lift

I have had a look at the snake-racing kits but you can get that same kit from Caloffroad for 1995 w/ the idle brace and HD tie rods. Plus at Caloffroad, they have slightly modified the arms so they are more suited to the aussie RHD navara instead of the yank LHD frontier. Just wish I could get some feedback from some of the boys that have had the kits installed in there rigs for a long period of time and how they rate it.

joshy said:

If your really only touring youd be better off sticking to 33's. If your that worried bout the chain, when/if you get reduction gears put them in a d21 transfer case and just swap them over, you could prob get one off ebay for $50 then you dont have to worry about the chain. Only used low for crawling and taking off on dirt hills. with the 35's on, off road hill starts or slow hill climbs in hi range were impossible.
Didnt bother with the upper arms, not worth the money.

Click to expand...

hey joshy,
been lookin round the net and I am hard press to find a tx-10 from a d21 for $50??
can you just for the chain from a d21 and put it in the d22 transfer case?

now I am starting to understand more what you used the reduction gears for, it also would of helped out by not loading up the driveline as much to wouldnt it?