Light bar install

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Mgmd40

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Hey guys,
Trying to wire up my light bar today to the d23 st, found the high beam wire however it's a bit confusing, has 12v when low beam is on, as do the other wires, then has 0v when the high beams on, unplug the loom and put 12v on the wire for high beam and the light comes on, however reads 0v when plugged in?

Not sure how to get a feed for the wiring for the light bar, I'm tempted to pay someone to wire it up. The d40 was way easier, kind of spewing I bought this car really. Stuck with it now so may aswell do some mods to it.
 
In a normal headlight there should be three wires. Unplug the socket from the back of the bulb and test each one:

1) Will not light a bulb in any switch position between it and battery negative or the body, and after testing that double-check that it has zero resistance between it and the battery negative. This is the negative pole of the globe.

2) Will only have 12V between it and battery negative when low beam is on, when high beam is on it will show 0V. When on low beam and holding "Pass" it will stay at 12V. This is the low beam wire.

3) Will only have 12V between it and battery negative when high beam is on. When on low beam it will have 0V. This is the high beam wire.

Once you make that determination, the light bar is easy. I've described it elsewhere, but in brief summary:

Black wire from body inside cabin to first pole of switch. Black wire from second pole of switch out into engine bay to a relay, pin 86. Blue or white wire from the identified high beam wire above to pin 85 of that relay. Red wire from battery to fuse then from fuse to pin 30 of the relay. Finally, pin 87 of the relay to the red wire of the light bar. Black wire of the light bar can go straight to body/battery.

I hope that they've not done some stupid stuff with the headlight wiring.
 
Thanks for the reply, the d23 headlights are led or hid, has a plug with 7 wires into it, 2 negatives, I've determined the high beam wire but I think the way the headlights work may be different than the hid I had in the d40. I've setup the wiring kit to the switch inside the cabin etc just needing the feed, the wire I have for switching the lightbar on, touch 12v with it, light bar comes on, take it off, test 0v. Touch same wire to high beam pin out, with headlights off, high beams come on, no lightbar. So somehow the switch wire doesn't have 12v at all, but turns the high beams on when touching the pin. Creating a circuit. If any of that makes sense,

It's doing my head in, il take a photo of the plug tomorrow,d40 was the exact case you have written above tony. But this one is annoying.
 
Sounds like the np300 switches the negative wire instead of switching the positive like most other cars. Not overly hard to get around, you just have to feed the 12v supply to the light bar permanently and wire up the relay to switch the negative when you turn the high beams on...
 
The other scenario is the high low are electronically controlled with a circuit board at each light.
I have not investigated it.
But would be treading very carefully.
 
the d23 has led head lights and they are earth switched.
You can pick up at the head light easily. Use this to switch your relay, or you could run it through the switch in the cab first , and just power the light bar normally form there.
 
Got my light bar installed on Saturday morning and there is a fuse box at the back right of the engine bay. It is easier to get the negitive switching there.
 
Well I've had a play with the wiring again, fitted up the light bar and switch, ran wiring etc, getting a lift kit fitted next week so will get them to finish the wiring. Light bar looks the goods though.
 

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Well I've had a play with the wiring again, fitted up the light bar and switch, ran wiring etc, getting a lift kit fitted next week so will get them to finish the wiring. Light bar looks the goods though.


Mint! 👌🏼 that's where I want mine.
What size is that?
 
It's 28", made up some steel brackets to suit some of the factory holes that were available so I didn't have to drill any for mounting.
 
Well I've had a play with the wiring again, fitted up the light bar and switch, ran wiring etc, getting a lift kit fitted next week so will get them to finish the wiring. Light bar looks the goods though.

That does look great. Do you tow or haul heavy loads for long distances? If so, do you notice higher than normal transmission temps. I tow a bit and this would be my main concern in fitting a bar down there but looks like the best spot if there were no problems.
 
Havnt noticed any change in drivability. I was a bit concerned with the increased temps, but thought if it has problems I will get an aftermarket winch bar sooner rather than later. mine is manual though so no trans cooler, just the intercooler is behind it.
 
Went to get the light bar finished off the other day, the end result is no light bar wired and the normal headlights now need to be flicked to highbeam to have low beam, and vice versa, so somehow they've reversed the way the lights work and basically said, here's your keys, sorry.
 
Went to get the light bar finished off the other day, the end result is no light bar wired and the normal headlights now need to be flicked to highbeam to have low beam, and vice versa, so somehow they've reversed the way the lights work and basically said, here's your keys, sorry.
Was that the dealer or auto sparky?
 
It was an auto sparky/ mechanic, they fitted the lift kit aswell. I've done a temp fix so I can use the light bar when we go away. Just on a switch without high beams.
 

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