D21 Tacho Problem

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Muzzman

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Sep 24, 2010
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Maryborough, QLD, Australia
Hi All, I have Datsun Pickup 4X4 that "i think" is a Jap import, i'm not sure as the compliance plate was changed by a previous owner. I know it was changed as the Transport department and police were kind enough to tell me someone was trying to register a Nissan Navara D21 with my VIN number and proceeded to check my ute to see if it was stolen (which it wasn't) lol. It is pretty much identical to an Australian D21 and i generally get 89 model parts for it.

When i bought it it was pretty tired, the original parts were a Z20S motor, 4 spark plugs, pionts dizzy and self locking hubs. I have since put a little bit of life back into it with a sports grind on the cam (which was supposed to be a tow economy) , piston rings, 2 1/4 exhaust with wild cat extractors, 32/36 weber carby and an after market electronic dizzy and coil.

The problem is since installing the electronic dizzy the tacho has played up. It works when it's under load as in when you put your foot down and the more you do put it down the more steady it reads. Even on the highway if you back off the accelerator gradually it will start to twitch up and down and if you only just have your foot on it the needle flicks up and down badly, if you take your foot off it drops to 0 revs. If you slowly increase revs when it's parked the tacho flicks around the lower rev range right up till the motors at higher revs, but if you floor it it reacts normally.

I know the original points dizzy had a ballast resistor to bring the volts down to about 8-9 volts and the new electronic dizzy needs 12v to work properly so i bypassed the resistor. I'm also pretty sure the signal from the points dizzy would be a longer duration (i think dwell time?) compared to the electronic which would be a lot faster. These are the only two things i can think of that may be causing the erratic tacho readings but the fact that under load it opperates well is a mystery to me. Are there any ideas as to how i can fix this without replacing the tacho? I have thought about taking the original negative feed from the loom to the coil off, and running a new line to the tacho with the original ballast resistor in series to bring the voltage back to 8-9v but was hoping there might be something simple i'm missing.

Any Ideas??
 
I'm assuming under load the coil is drawing more current, which brings down the volts a little?
As to why it's bounding around at low load, I'm not sure.
What about cruising at speed? Foot barely on the pedal? How does the tacho work then?
 
If your just cruzing weather at 100k's or 60 with your foot barely on the pedal it flicks around at a low rev reading and almost drops to 0 a lot of the time. The only time it reads well is when you put your foot down probably 1/3 or more.
 
Not sure mate, Dion is pretty clued up on D21's.

Other options is taking it to a auto electrician.

Dave.
 
Simplest solution is of course leave it unconnectd. I haven't run my tacho since plonking in the KA24E 18 months ago. The coil and dizzy are a single unit. I tried to connect up at one stage, but no go. Not sure why.

I got used to it not working. Radio and aircon still work without it :)
 
well Muzzman i have a similar problem, when i start the car it goes straight up to max revs, when i rev the car is bounces backwards to 2000 RPM and im using a Diesel... for now im putting up with it but i still want to fix the tacho as well as my Speedo (need a new needle).

i am driving a Nissan Navara D21 with a TD27 engine.
 

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