Proportional Braking Valve adjustment

Can anybody send details as to how to adjust Proportional braking valve after lifting vehicle 70mm at rear,
Photos would be excellent .
I understand a bracket or similar has to be fitted ?
Cheers Nisnav40

The back brakes work better if the apportioning valve thinks there is a load on back of ute,so pull the spring up tight so the apportioning valve is full on, and you will notice the difference. The apportioning valve is there to stop the back brakes from locking up in slippery conditions,like ice or snow on roads, that doesnt happen often in oz and cars havent got them anyway, so I think you will be safe.
I have done this to my utes for several years now and have never had a lock up. If you dont do this this the front brakes do all the work and wear out heaps faster than they should.

brakes

i draged mine as far foward as i could 2 weeks ago and i wish i did it 2 years ago. now the front end dosnt feel like it is about to dive into the road every time i brake hard and it also helps to keep the heart rate lower when trying to stop in a hurry.

Hi guys ,
if the rear has been lifted approx 80mm does a bracket have to be made to extend the assembly etc ?
Cheers Nisnav40

the old rule of thumb was to raise the end the same as the lift.
i have to have a look at doing the D22 one day. darn handbrake cable is right in the wrong place to fit a simple bracket.

bob said:

i draged mine as far foward as i could 2 weeks ago and i wish i did it 2 years ago. now the front end dosnt feel like it is about to dive into the road every time i brake hard and it also helps to keep the heart rate lower when trying to stop in a hurry.

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That's pretty much what I did to mine, I didn't even have to go all the way, I tried all the way and it was a little too much, felt like it would lock up the rear end in the wet so I backed it off a little till it felt right.

nisnav40 said:

Hi guys ,
if the rear has been lifted approx 80mm does a bracket have to be made to extend the assembly etc ?
Cheers Nisnav40

Click to expand...

That would seem to be most logical adjustment to make.. I would of thought to just keep the relativity the same --either a body lift, shackles or axle lift............................rear brakes wont lock anyway as they have ABS--well on later models anyway

Try a company call safe-T-brake, they put your car on this dino like machine and they can tell you exactly what each wheel is doing and front too back, they have stores and outlet nearly everywhere

Sorry its Safe-T-Stop not safe-t-brake

bob said:

i draged mine as far foward as i could 2 weeks ago and i wish i did it 2 years ago. now the front end dosnt feel like it is about to dive into the road every time i brake hard and it also helps to keep the heart rate lower when trying to stop in a hurry.

Click to expand...

im having this issue at the moment how do you adjust the back breaks exactly everyone is saying pull something forward but what, photo's would be good if someone could?

Found this on the SnakeRacing site





Its showing a bracket for the handbrake cable but if you look close you can see the bracket for the proportioning valve. Basically you just try to keep the valve etc in the same location relative to the body .

As to the adjustment read comments above this and the guys have said just what to do

I still don't understand what to adjust. Even the manual does not explain clearly what nut or bolt to turn.
Does the spring need to be compressed or expanded?

this is on a D22

My 2013 Spain D40 does not have a proportioning valve

I had a closer look at mine today and noticed on the diff bracket one of the holes is slotted so I presume that is what you adjust. It looks as though the bracket is as far forward as it will go already. DO you move it forward or back?

Later model D40's with ebd and vtc or whatever it's called don't have the proportioning valve. Instead the ecu does the work.

Adjust that bracket until the spring is stretched. Did mine so long ago I forgot I'd done it. No ill effects just better balanced braking and longer life on front pads and rotors.

mines wrong

vicszd30 said:

this is on a D22

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Looking at mine it's wrong- I think with the extension I put on mine it has released the tension on the spring and the arm/valve is as if there is no load on the tray. I'm going to lengthen the bracket that mounts to the diff and bring the arm further forward.
Am I right in thinking the arm has to be pulled forward for the rear brakes to kick in? cheers and marry X-Mass All

steel d40 said:

Adjust that bracket until the spring is stretched. Did mine so long ago I forgot I'd done it. No ill effects just better balanced braking and longer life on front pads and rotors.

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I just took a geek underneath the Nav. It would appear on mine at least (Thai built D40) the higher the the body is in relationship to the axle housing ie less load, the more the string is stretched. Just now I cable tied the lever in the full up or forward position (it's now sitting in about the 4 o'clock position). As I push the body upwards the spring stretches out. This seems contrary to what you have mentioned.

I've yet to take it for a spin but will let you know the results latter today.

That is what my d22 looks like too, the spring shortens as the load on the rear is increased. I have mine as short as it can go and it doesn't feel like I have a lot of rear brake bias so I need to check the rear brake shoe adjustment too I reckon...