standard dual battery isolation

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heata

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Hi all,
If just done several searches, and can see lots of talk about planning to fit an isolator to your standard dual batteries (2010 d22). Has anybody done it yet? and if so how has it worked out? (I remember reading a post by somebody that had completed it, but I cant seem to find the thread.) I would like to do the same, to put a fridge in the back (like we all seem to!) I gather that projecta and red arc seem to be popular brands. I also gather that the size of the wiring back to the tub is important. There seems to be a few sparkies on this site, or at least those who have good knowledge on the topic. I'd like to be in the know before I tackle it or go to the local auto elec. Any tips?
Heath:hmmmm:
 
Hi,

I will be carrying out this project when I get some spare time. I have posted this wiring diagram on a couple of other threads... should help out
 

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I'm not that familiar with the setup, but if they are both wired as crankers now, will one need to be upsized if the other is going to be used as a aux?
And if they are both cranking batteries, you would need to change the other for a deep cycle to get any decent life out of it.
 
I'm not that familiar with the setup, but if they are both wired as crankers now, will one need to be upsized if the other is going to be used as a aux?
And if they are both cranking batteries, you would need to change the other for a deep cycle to get any decent life out of it.

Yeah, that is my expectation regarding the need to upgrade to one deepcycle batt. I believe that they are both cranking batteries, although in an earlier thread there are comments that the set up is, to paraphrase, 'overkill'. I find it suprising, that this is a cost efficient set up. I would expect Nissan to have only fitted the second battery if it was absolutley needed. So that is my reason for posting, to find out how its gone for those who've done it.
 
Ok so now I'm looking silly. Neither battery has a any indication af a number like that, and the manual doesn't specify. The only detail on the battery is 75D23L and 75D23R,
 
75 I'm guessing 750cA, 23 no idea, L & R, probably left and right orientation on the terminals.
 
Many part numbers are the same over a variety of industries, was just a wild stab that the one I found was going to be the right one. Try the UK forums, I think I remember reading somewhere that the second battery was put in mainly for the European market where it's cold and the single battery can't always cope (but I could be wrong), either way someone on there might have better specs if the info you have on your battery yields nothing.
 
I'd be very careful about using a deep cycle battery in any configuration that allows it to crank the motor over. Deep cycle batteries are designed for extended duration power usage at low current, not short bursts at high current like a cranker. Cranking from a deep cycle will do it damage.

You can use a cranker for low-current extended usage, but they die faster. They are manufactured differently, so that they can dump the higher current that starter motors need.
 
I drove mine for a week without the second battery connected (in winter), only driving very short distances. They are normal sized batteries, I would not be concerned about losing one of them. Apparently they were fitted with two batteries due to the cold weather markets overseas requiring more cranking power, and we just got their excess stock of vehicles - it was cheaper to leave the batteries in there than it was to remove them....
 
i've done it on our 2010 d22. as above, the batteries are connected in parallel from the factory. the alternator has 2 wires coming out of the main feed terminal, one to each battery. the driver's side battery also has a wire going to the starter motor.

i just removed the + terminal from the passenger side battery and covered it in electrical tape so it doesn't short out on anything, i will pull the wiring apart and disconnect it from the alternator at some stage.

as for the dual battery setup, i put the solenoid on the driver's side inside guard (there are 2 threaded holes perfectly spaced for a red arc solenoid there), i think the holes are for m6 bolts, and ran the wiring along the firewall under the fuel lines to the other battery. from where the solenoid mounts the bolts earth it enough to not have to scrape any paint off.

and there you go, instant dual battery setup.
 
i've done it on our 2010 d22. as above, the batteries are connected in parallel from the factory. the alternator has 2 wires coming out of the main feed terminal, one to each battery. the driver's side battery also has a wire going to the starter motor.

i just removed the + terminal from the passenger side battery and covered it in electrical tape so it doesn't short out on anything, i will pull the wiring apart and disconnect it from the alternator at some stage.

as for the dual battery setup, i put the solenoid on the driver's side inside guard (there are 2 threaded holes perfectly spaced for a red arc solenoid there), i think the holes are for m6 bolts, and ran the wiring along the firewall under the fuel lines to the other battery. from where the solenoid mounts the bolts earth it enough to not have to scrape any paint off.

and there you go, instant dual battery setup.

Why didn't you just connect the solenoid to the cable coming off the alternator?
 
^^because i couldn't find anywhere decent to mount it on that side of the engine bay. as well as that, it's barely long enough to reach the battery, let alone trying to run it somewhere to a solenoid.

the spot on the driver's side guard looks like it's designed to have a dual battery solenoid mounted on it.
 
^^because i couldn't find anywhere decent to mount it on that side of the engine bay. as well as that, it's barely long enough to reach the battery, let alone trying to run it somewhere to a solenoid.

the spot on the driver's side guard looks like it's designed to have a dual battery solenoid mounted on it.

Fair call, I'll have to have a look around for it, as I want to do a similar thing...

What is everyones experiences with these batteries? they look like poo.... Time for some optimas?
 
fair enough. i'll try and get a pic and post it up. even the 2wd ones have the holes there, lol
 
Yeah, that is true. I'll be making an aluminium bracket to mount mine in.

Keep your standard batteries until they start to deteriorate. They'll be fine...
 
Thanks for your posts boys I think I am getting my head around this. I am thinking the following;
1.remove wire between second bat and starter.
2. extend wire between alternater to 2nd batt to allow putting an isolator (such as redarc) in and fixing to something.
3. run power to tub from 2nd batt, for fridge etc.
Am I on the right track?
Problem I see is that the the starter looks to be a bastard to get to, it seems to be at the bottom of the engine on the drivers side and the wiring, works around between the firewall and engine to the 2nd bat. Is that right?
 

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