Limp mode when chip box fitted

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hello everybody, i'm new here..
ok did anyone of u know how to solve this limp mode problem without decrease the chip box potentiometer? as nissan i really dunno how to solve this problem, but my last toyota vigo i only fix FCD and it solved, here nissan don hv map sensor but maf, any guru know how to?

Thanks in advance.!
 
Welcome!

I doubt Nissan would want to help much, at least here in Australia they say the warranty on the engine is void if you chip the thing.

It's probably something for the chip maker to examine. Limp mode will only start when the ECU has detected a fault, and the fault can be read by the CONSULT device that Nissan mechs have - they COULD give that info to you so you know at least what is going wrong.

Things it could be: DPF regen failure, MAF failure, O2 sensor response failure, EGR valve issues ... the list goes on. Find the error code and talk to the chip manufacturer.
 
This issue is known amongst chip maunfacturers and its not the chip(s). The issue should only be occuring under very hard acceleration and at the higher or highest settings. As you have correctly noted the solution is to wind back the chip to the highest setting that does not trip the ECU.

The problem is (I understand) the fuel pressure sensor at the rear of the rail detects a lack of fuel under full load and trips the ECU into limp mode. There is a solution, replace the banjo bolt at the rear of the fuel rail with one that sealed off so the diesel cannot return to the tank. This keeps the rail sufficently pressurised when you have the 'wild' settings dialed in on your chip.

It takes 20 minutes to get the bolt and 3 minutes to replace it. And the solution fixes the issue!

Oh and here's banjo bolt you need to remove :wink:

BanjoBolt.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's not low fuel pressure that causes it. Quite the opposite it's to much fuel.

I'm guessing the chip you have plugs into the fuel rail as it's very common for these style of chips to play up on the D40's (seem to be fine on most other models/cars etc). The reason is it raises the fuel pressure because more fuel means more power and the D40 doesn't have a lot of tolerance for pressure increases from factory. (Some dealers oversea's have done this modification because even at factory settings without chips different ambient temps, altitudes and fuel types can cause fuel pressure problems in some countries)


How to stop limp mode...

Things/tools needed :- THE PICTURES ARE NOT FROM THE D40 BUT IT LOOKS THE SAME IN SIDE AND IN THAT ORDER.THERE ALREADY A SHIM IN THE D40,YOU NEED TO ADD 1 MORE.

1st you need a shim ( washer ) Approx 1.5 mm thick.
A 14mm spanner.
Magnetic tray.
Vices and grips.

Take off the engine cover and set aside.
Facing the engine from the front of motor there is the common rail on the left.At the back of the common rail is a 14mm headed bolt,this is the fuel pressure valve.Put the magnetic tray under the 14mm head of the pressure valve and undo VERY CAREFULLY and remove the valve.
d40_va10.jpg

Once you have the valve you need to split the valve as shown in the pictures.The way I did it was to put it in a vice and put the grips over the end cap and tap off(very slowly with pressure holding it back,as the spring is very strong)Over the magnetic tray.Please note how it all comes out but you can check the pictures for order.
valva210.jpg


The ball barring is very small so do use a magnetic tray of some sort.

valve110.jpg


Add the shim and redo back up in the same order it came apart.Use the vice to push all back in,it wills stop when full up and undo from vice slowly to see if all stays together.Once out put it back in the common rail and nip back up tight.

Put back engine cover and prime the fuel pump (left to the common rail under the fuel filter.

Go and start your engine and go for a run, all ok ,then all done.

Doing this raises the fuel pressure parameters allowing more fuel which in turn means more power at a higher setting.You motor will still hit limp mode if there is a massive pressure surge, but this is good as there will be not damage to your very expensive engine.

Doing this does stop the common rail plug and play boxs from going in to limp mode and get a very good gain as some box claim they can.
 
Bosshog's way will work to but removes the safety factor of being able to drain excess fuel away if there is an even bigger spike than the chip provides.
 
most of the problems are really due to how the cheap "chips" work. a lot only fool the ECU into thinking the fuel pressure is low so it opens up the injectors a bit more.
trouble is the ecu now thinks the fuel pump is faulty and trips the limp mode.
also the ecu learns this pressure setting and adjust itself accordingly.
some of the chips get around this by only fooling the ecu when high throttle is used where its a lot less likely for the ecu to trip the limp mode.

others do a more expensive approach and interrupt the actual injectors signals and gives them a modded signal. that way the ecu just does its normal thing.
 
It's not low fuel pressure that causes it. Quite the opposite it's to much fuel.

I'm guessing the chip you have plugs into the fuel rail as it's very common for these style of chips to play up on the D40's (seem to be fine on most other models/cars etc). The reason is it raises the fuel pressure because more fuel means more power and the D40 doesn't have a lot of tolerance for pressure increases from factory. (Some dealers oversea's have done this modification because even at factory settings without chips different ambient temps, altitudes and fuel types can cause fuel pressure problems in some countries)


How to stop limp mode...

Things/tools needed :- THE PICTURES ARE NOT FROM THE D40 BUT IT LOOKS THE SAME IN SIDE AND IN THAT ORDER.THERE ALREADY A SHIM IN THE D40,YOU NEED TO ADD 1 MORE.

1st you need a shim ( washer ) Approx 1.5 mm thick.
A 14mm spanner.
Magnetic tray.
Vices and grips.

Take off the engine cover and set aside.
Facing the engine from the front of motor there is the common rail on the left.At the back of the common rail is a 14mm headed bolt,this is the fuel pressure valve.Put the magnetic tray under the 14mm head of the pressure valve and undo VERY CAREFULLY and remove the valve.
d40_va10.jpg

Once you have the valve you need to split the valve as shown in the pictures.The way I did it was to put it in a vice and put the grips over the end cap and tap off(very slowly with pressure holding it back,as the spring is very strong)Over the magnetic tray.Please note how it all comes out but you can check the pictures for order.
valva210.jpg


The ball barring is very small so do use a magnetic tray of some sort.

valve110.jpg


Add the shim and redo back up in the same order it came apart.Use the vice to push all back in,it wills stop when full up and undo from vice slowly to see if all stays together.Once out put it back in the common rail and nip back up tight.

Put back engine cover and prime the fuel pump (left to the common rail under the fuel filter.

Go and start your engine and go for a run, all ok ,then all done.

Doing this raises the fuel pressure parameters allowing more fuel which in turn means more power at a higher setting.You motor will still hit limp mode if there is a massive pressure surge, but this is good as there will be not damage to your very expensive engine.

Doing this does stop the common rail plug and play boxs from going in to limp mode and get a very good gain as some box claim they can.

:rock: Well Thanks for your advice, shim added and solved limp mode....perfect..!
thanks to all too.....
 

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