Towbars - Hayman Reece vs Nissan

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Raziel

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Hi all,

We have a new Nav D40 on the way and would like to ask what peoples thoughts where.

We have a off road box trailer with a pintle hook coupling and a half cab boat (standard tow ball) that we tow. The pintle hook we have is a hayman reece unit with solid reciever.

Does anyone prefer the Hayman Reece Tow bar over the Nissan unit?
 
Absolutely yes - the Hayman Reese branded unit is superior. It's all in the mountings - the actual Nissan-branded towbar is made by Hayman Reese!

The "Nissan" hitch only has vertical mounting bolts, and if you use a load-leveler like we do, there's a risk that the chassis will bend at the point where the bolts pass through.

With the "HR" branded hitch, they use the vertical bolts and also use horizontal bolts.

I have no idea why - it doesn't seem to make sense, but then again neither does a platypus.
 
i looked at my towbar and its got 5bolts either side. three horizontal and then two on the underside. it says its a nissan bar??
 
tony, with the hr bar, can you use a 2 tonne D shackle (13mm shaft) or are they smaller like the nissan bar ?
 
This is my D40 STX Nissan towbar. Has 2 horozontal bolts and 3 vertical bolts per side. Shackle has 15mm pin and fits easy.
 

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this is what i have, and it works realy well so far. i have the load leveler kit but i was advised not to use it as i have air bags. i am not a mechanic but as far as towing goes, and i am towing massive, with huge towball weight it is working well!

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/jaykjims/P1000036.jpg

I'm a little concerned about your rig, if it's massive - you're using inertia brakes, not electric - they're really unsuitable for anything over 1,000kg - although technically the law permits inertia or "override" brakes on trailers up to 2,000kg, they strongly recommend electric on at least one axle and for over 2,000kg it's law to have independent electric brakes on ALL wheels.

Our 1.8T has double axles with electric brakes on all four wheels and the handbrake operates the two front wheels. At about 6.5A per wheel, we carry up to 26A on the electrical cabling to the wheels, which means we're using some heavy cabling in the vehicle - 6 sq.mm is highly recommended. We start with a 30A thermal-resettable fuse just a few cm from the battery, run this into the cabin where the brake controller sits, then out to the rear and through a 12-pin flat connector (the top 7 pins are the standard flat trailer plug, so I don't need an adapter for a small trailer). This is the method I would recommend for anyone towing a considerable amount of weight. Our old van (1977 York, 16' and 960Kg) had inertia brakes and it was a pig, I couldn't stand how they worked even when adjusted as best as I could.

Your load leveler won't make a different to your air bags. The air bags form part of the vehicle's suspension, stiffening the rear and raising it upwards to allow the vehicle to maintain its height with the increased load.

Load levelers perform a different function, although the result may appear to be similar.

When you place a heavy weight behind the rear axle, the rear axle becomes a pivot (like the centre of a see-saw) and the heavy load pressing down causes a measurable (and we can calculate it too, given all the numbers) lift of the FRONT wheels. This causes reduced steering control and changes the dynamics of the vehicle on the road. Stiffening the rear suspension only makes the pivot more effective.

Load levelers actually apply a torque to the hitch (which is why it needs to have the correct, sturdy mounting like you see here). This torque not only raises the rear of the vehicle but transfers the load upwards and settles the front wheels back on the ground, returning steering and braking control to normal.

It is therefore perfectly reasonable to use both load levelers and air bags in conjunction with each other - although I won't use air bags myself, because of the single point of contact that may cause chassis issues. I am using Load Plus helper springs, which are noisy and harsh but they give the tail more of a lift and do it through the normal suspension mounting points.

For everyone: I strongly recommend getting your hands on a video from Hayman Reese on how to set up the load leveler. It not only explains it better than I have just done by using pictures, it shows you how to PROPERLY set up the leveler system. You don't just throw it on and say it's done, you have to take measurements and adjust the hitch properly.

I have this video - I'll see if I can't turn it into a flash video.
 
Between HR and Nissan assuming they are the same unit I would probably go with what ever is cheaper and better warranty.

Should one stay away from electric brakes on a boat trailer?
 
Where are the horizontal bolts?That looks exactly the same as my Nissan Bar and I know for a fact its held on with only 6 bolts.Does yours have mounts behind the rear bar mounts?

The 3 horozontal bolts on the outside of the chassis rail are for the tub and bumper brackets. There are another two bolts on the inside that bolt the towbar to the chassis rail as well as the 3 bolts underneath. All bolts are secured with nuts inside the chassis. I notice there is no support or strengthening bar inside the chassis, just the nuts but at least there is double thickness on the bottom. If I was towing heavy loads often I would consider putting some 1/4" flat bar iside the chassis under the bottom nuts if they come out.
 

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Kool
Obviously a later variation on the original bar I bought.I know what you mean about no strength as such its just through the chassis to captive nuts and thats it.
Obviously the chassis changed in the later models .
Just went out and looked and mine has those captive nuts as well plus an extra pair on the passenger side rail.

How the hell did you take those pics.I looked and there is bugger all room up behind the chassis rails
 
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If the boat trailer is heavy enough, electric brakes are mandatory.

It's 12V stuff. Even in salt water it can't do much. Electric eels pack more punch.

I would look at trying to ensure the units are all sealed though, just to be safe.
 
i've actualy got a 3 tonne trailer on order, with obviously electric brakes on dual axle, with the break away system. i enquired about converting mine and cheaper to build a new one ... 15k!
at the moment i drive like all think i have super breaks. done 18k no probs! The bloke that did my lift and airbags was adimant that load levelers would damage the chassis?
 
Kool
How the hell did you take those pics.I looked and there is bugger all room up behind the chassis rails

Little camera held up in the cavity inside the bumper. Aim by guesswork and press the button hoping for the best. Actually worked out ok. Not a bad way to look into places you can't get your head.
 
I would have thought air bags were more of a concern for the chassis (single point of stress). The multi-point fixing of the hitch spreads the stress over a wider area and so shouldn't become an issue.

I suppose the best way to get the answer is how it's likely to be covered by Nissan. Ask them which one they'd warrant the chassis for. Get it in writing! I'm betting they'll support the use of load levelers and will decline to support air bags.

I've heard of vehicles with air bags cracking the chassis, but I've never heard of a chassis problem from load levelers (unless the hitch was inadequate). Hayman Reese manufacture and supply the hitches AND levelers - I'd imagine that they'd have done their homework on the whole engineering side of them.

If you've got some doubts, maybe see another mechanic and get their opinion on it.
 

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