Help with rust protection

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Eug

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Hi all,

I bought the car second hand with electronic rust protection preinstalled, however I never paid it any attention until now. A quick search has come up with Couplertec to be the go to kit. However mine seems to be a no name brand (TVP?). Can't find anything online through my searches. Could it be a generic Nissan option?

It only has 4 pads and two of these are in the engine bay, right next to the bonnet stand, the other on the opposite side (left/right). The remaining two seem to feed down the firewall (have yet to trace them).

My questions are:
- Are the two pads I can see in the correct position?
- What is the white powdery substance solidified on the pads (salt and/or calcification)? Is this normal?
- Is it worth upgrading to the Couplertec? More pads?
- Where to from here?

I intend on doing some beach driving and would like to protect my car more. So I'd like some tips from more experienced drivers please.

I've attached two photos:
1. Electronic rust protection unit.
2. Solidification of salt? on the pads.

Cheers in advance
Eug
 

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I have no idea ... but i'm interested what thoughts are out there.

I should also be thinking about electronic rust protection - as i intend to do some beach driving with my Nav.
 
The only people I had advise me to install rust protection was the people who sell it, everyone else just said wash your car properly once your off the beach.
 
I agree with Queenslander. Woody I think your time is better spent thinking about other things than electronic rust protection (not sure what those other things are yet but maybe you've got a sock drawer to sought out). If it was already on the car then I think it's a case of use it or loose it but if your considering paying someone to put it on, consider just giving me your money and I'll spend it on stuff I like.
 
Rust bug killer

The reason why this thing won't work on a car that's above ground is that there's no circuit between the sacrificial/impressed current anode and almost all of the rustable parts of the car. The conductive tape that you stick the anode(s) in place with means they'll protect the metal right under them just fine, but, y'know, paint'll do that too.


Electronic Rust Protection doesn't work.


Rust-bug repellent

I am the lucky buyer of a new car and my dealer is offering me the chance to buy a "Defense Pak Computerised Electronic Corrosion Inhibitor" (at a cost of $AU1000).

Only issue is, do these things actually work?

I've been trying to look around the net and can't find anything about them and was wondering if you could shed some light.

Lambert

Answer:
No, they don't work. At all. I mention them in passing in this column, as being even less plausible than the electronic rust inhibitor doodad I'm complaining about there.

See also this page.

(The Car Talk guys don't know why these gadgets don't work - they have sacrificial-anode devices mixed up with electronic ones, and don't know that sacrificial-anode devices work because the thing they're protecting is immersed in an electrolyte, which cars aren't - but they do at least know that they don't.)

The Defense Pak Blah Blah, of course, does not explicitly claim that it's a cathodic or impressed-current system - nooooo, it "sends a continuous stream of silent electronic pulses throughout the body of the vehicle", which "act to inhibit the electro-chemical process".

Except, of course, they don't. This is pseudoscientific gibberish. A conductor with current flowing through it will rust exactly like an identical piece of metal that's just sitting there, unless it's part of a natural or forced electrochemical cell that shifts the corrosion somewhere else. Cathodic and impressed-current rust protection does actually work, when the thing being protected is surrounded by a conductive medium like water or earth. But It doesn't work on cars, because they're (mostly) surrounded by nothing but (mostly) insulative air.

The process the Defense Pak and most other "electronic" anti-rust gadgets claim to use is even further from usefulness. It is nonsense, and cannot work, ever.

I am, of course, not qualified to tell the universe what to do. Neither are all of the world's electrochemists and physicists. The proof is in the pudding; if your explanation for your antigravity machine is nonsense but the thing's obviously hanging there in the air, you still get your Nobel Prize.

But these products fit a well-established pattern which makes clear to me that if they're not scams, they're doing a very good job of pretending to be.

Umpteen companies have been selling electronic rust-stoppers for many years. Many billion-dollar industries would love it if the devices worked. And yet the devices are still being sold one by one to regular Joes, just like miracle fuel-economy potions and magical plug-in "power savers".

If electronic rust-preventers actually worked, the people who sold them would have made more money than God in a week and retired, and most if not all vehicles would come with one built in.

Does Caterpillar include an electronic de-ruster on every bulldozer? Does the US Army put 'em on their vehicles?

Kenworth?

Toyota?

Bueller? Bueller?

Note that you certainly can use a sacrificial-anode or impressed-current system on any part of a land vehicle where water tends to accumulate - if there's some nook or cranny that always gets damp and starts rusting, you can bolt a lump of magnesium in there and protect that particular spot just fine. Or, better yet, you can give the whole car's steel panels a coating of a suitable other metal like, oh, I don't know, zinc.

This process is, of course, known as "galvanising", and it's normal in the car industry these days. I don't think it's even possible to buy a steel car that doesn't have galvanised panels, any more (though there are still plenty of cars that aren't fully galvanised). I think there used to be problems with spot welding such panels, or something, and that was one of the leading reasons why old cars rusted so rapidly and so badly - they had to be made out of ungalvanised steel, or the galvanising was damaged by the welding and they rusted at the welds, which is of course the very last place you want rust to start. But modern mainstream cars are well-galvanised from bumper to bumper.

Modern cars are far more rust resistant than older cars, mainly because of galvanising but also because of the wider use of plastic for some panels and bumpers, and possibly also because of better paint. People who remember how fast their old Cortina was eaten by the rust bugs may, therefore, buy a new Corolla, pay extra for some shady dealer to bolt a useless electro-gizmo onto it (or, more traditionally, pay for greatly overpriced "undercoating" to be sprayed all over the car's belly - though at least that stuff probably does genuinely provide some protection, especially in places where they salt the roads in winter), and be amazed to see that there's no rust to speak of after ten years.

Except that that's normal these days, if you don't live by the seaside, drive on salted roads in some cold-country winter, or keep scraping your car on concrete pillars in the supermarket parking lot and exposing bare metal.

Oh well. I suppose it's nice, at least, to see a non-functional automotive gadget that's not supposed to do anything to your fuel economy.
 
I believe the white stuff is the result of the pad being a sacrificial type of duvalacky, ie. corrosion. From what I've read this type of protection is only good if your vehicle is submerged in salt water all the time. Good for boats etc.

Inox-MX3 The Supreme Lubricant...
 
Even they work or don't work the onlt best protection you can do to your 4x4 is do it your self big tin of black stuff and go mad under your car and cut up some zinc blocks put inside chassie rails , my d22 is and 2003 there is not one bit of rust even when i brought it brand new i ask for extra rust protection tried giving me electronic version no thank you
there is plenty of electronic junk in car the car aleady give the black stuff please even after that they only do so much in areas under the car so add the rest my self even inside the doors
 
Thanks for the replies so far. My beach driving is going to be fairly limited, i.e. 1 week trips maybe 2-3 times a year. However I do drop my boat into the water regularly.

Seems like it's a bit of a gimmick. Where can I get Zinc blocks from?

Cheers
Eug
 
Wash your vehicle.

If you live near the coast, wash your vehicle frequently.
Drive in the rain? Hose it down, especially under the guards.

Any doubts at all, hose it down.
 
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