Turbo loss??? Computer error???

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Peter70

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After leaving what was undoubtably the worst game of AFL i have ever witnessed (Nth vs Ess) last weekend i was stuck in traffic at idle for nearly half an hour. When a car moved out of the way and opened some space i put my foot down and after picking up speed felt the sudden loss of power. Still in traffic motor sounded fine, no smoke no noise, took off again to find i now had the most gutless engine and it was clearly missing the turbo take off at around 1700 rpm,(totally flat) so much so i couldnt keep up with traffic. I decided to pull into a carpark and ring roadside assist, all the time keeping the motor idling. Roadside assist said they would be around about 40 mins away so my mate had phoned his wife to get him and the kids while i waited. After he hung up on her he suggested turning it off and seeing if it started again. I did this and to my surprise it was back to normal and hasnt missed a beat all week. It is going into Nissan next week for its 40k service and i will bring it up with them but i was wondering whether anyone else has experenced anything similar. I'm guessing it was a computer error??
 
Sounds like its overboosted and the computer went into limp mode.

I reakon turning it off and restarting it fixed it because the computer did a check on start up and read all the sensors which they would have read fine.

I have heard of it a couple of times but mainly on chipped D40's.

Dave.
 
nah definately computer cut out to the turbo. something didnt work right, comp shut down and was reset on start up
 
Not on one of those older trucks. The EGR valves from late 2012 to early 2013 seem to be the culprits there.

My guess would be SCV, but I dare say it's either not done it since, or the OP has gone away - possibly after selling the vehicle. He hasn't visited the forum since Feb 2011.
 
i have had kind of similar issue car was going awesome making boost turned it off can out the next morning and now has stopped making boost and if i put my foot down will only make 2-4psi more black smoke then usual and a loader tone through the exhaust. have cleaned the maf and taken front off turbo and checked the wheel has a few nics but no shaft play so figure its ok. i have an obd2 adaptor and torque2 and no fault codes show up any ideas?
 
Check the vacuum hoses on the turbo actuator. Might be cracking - won't do the vacuum any good. Check the operation of the actuator too.

The actuator is the gold circular unit on top of the turbocharger. Underneath this is a little arm about 5mm in diameter that goes down into the turbocharger. While the engine is idling it should move slightly but when some taps the accelerator and brings the rpm up to 1500 it should move a lot.
 
actuator doesnt seem to be moving i assume it has to move up and down? at the moment it is fully down and takes a fair bit of pressure to move upwards is this normal? also will it move when free reving as there is no load/has anyone checked on working vehicle
have felt all the lines and seems to have no cracks
 
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this has happened to me the code PU093 large fuel leak comes up on my scanner, Im taking mine in to nissan this week to get looked at
 
My boost control solenoid crapped itself the other month. To check this you need to bypass the control solenoid, pull off the vacuum hose (from the sol) that comes from the other side of the engine and hook it straight on to the actuator (on top of turbo). give the engine a rev and see if the actuator shaft moves up and down.
If it works ok then your boost solenoid is cactus, warning do not drive it around bypassed, could do some serious engine damage from overboost
 
can anyone check/confirm if the actuator moves while free reving?

Mine moves a small amount even at idle. It moves dramatically when the throttle is pressed a bit, that's why I suggested it.

If it's not moving at all then the actuator isn't working. Could be three reasons for it:

1) No vacuum at all. Likely to notice your brakes not as effective as they were too.

2) Cracked vacuum line, or loose connection allowing air to enter. If the hoses are a little stiff the rubber might have solidified a bit and this is highly likely to be the answer.

3) Damaged diaphragm in the actuator. Had one person with this problem in the last 12 months - I think he replaced the actuator. I don't know if it's serviceable internally. Nizzbits (send him a PM) can get you a genuine one cheaper than a dealer, and niss4x4.com.au can source too (2nd-hand ones as well).
 
My boost control solenoid crapped itself the other month. To check this you need to bypass the control solenoid, pull off the vacuum hose (from the sol) that comes from the other side of the engine and hook it straight on to the actuator (on top of turbo). give the engine a rev and see if the actuator shaft moves up and down.
If it works ok then your boost solenoid is cactus, warning do not drive it around bypassed, could do some serious engine damage from overboost

have check lines again and no cracks, did what old mate said about running vac line straight to the actuator and is now making boost. so looks like need new solenoid.

how much was a new one roughly?
 
have check lines again and no cracks, did what old mate said about running vac line straight to the actuator and is now making boost. so looks like need new solenoid.

how much was a new one roughly?

Bingo.... about $120.00 from Nizzbits

good luck
 
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