Stuck in 4Low

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Escapee

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had a great weekend camping at Youdales Hut near Yarrowitch (Walcha NSW) but it was spoiled when the 2006 D40 got stuck in low ratio. It was approximately a 4km decent into the gorge on a very steep and often narrow trail so low ratio is needed to get in and out. When I got to the bottom it went into high ok, but then I put it back in low to cross a deep creek (headlights underwater). After that it wouldn't come out of 4 low again. I figured at first a wet wire or water in the actuator might have stopped it disengaging so I stopped trying. had to cross the creek 2 more times so I left it in 4low. The next morning I though it would be okay after everything dried out, but it was still stuck. So back across the creek to get out of there and up the gorge. I ended up driving 50km back along the dirt road and unfortunately I had to drive over about 2 or 3 km of bitumen to get back to the Oxley Highway. Had NRMA meet me at the end of Kangaroo Flat road. Fuses tested ok, it seemed to be getting current to the actuator. NRMA mechanic ended up having to manually release it from 4wd via the actuator and then manually release the hubs. It's out of 4wd and the hubs are free but the 4Low lamp is still flashing.
I got home and read the manual and the first thing it says to check is the transmission fluid. If it's too high, too low or the wrong oil type it won't shift. I'll climb under the car on Friday and have a look if it got water in it.

Has anyone else had this happen. And isn't a transfer case supposed to be water tight or do they have breathers like diff's?

P.S Youdales hut is a trip well worth doing with the family. It can be done as a day trip if you're up that way but the campgrounds were awesome and would be comfortable for a week or 2
 
hi mate,
Ive got a 2008 rx single cab 2.5d and i use the 4low quite a bit with heavy loads up steep hills and stuff like that.
i have found now and then its hard to get back into normal running and have to play with the gears between 1st and reverse to diengage 4low and when it disengages you can here a clunk noise too!
cheers rick
 
+1 You sometimes need to relieve some pressure by reversing a meter or so. i do most times.

Tried all that (once on-top of the hill I reversed about 100meters with it set in 4h and another 200m in 2wd. Even tried jacking both sides up at the same time to let the front wheels turn free in case the front diff had wound tight. All that did was strip the thread of the piddly jack that comes with the Navara and then I snapped the lugs off the end of the rod that joins to the jack. Even the NRMA mechanic was surprised saying he has seen it happen to the Holden Rodeos and Colorados quite often but never seen a problem with the Navara saying he services them all the time and they are rock solid. Even when he disengaged it manually he said it didn't come out as it was supposed to that there was quite a lot of restriction.
 
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HI
This happened to me in 07 RX stuck in 4wd lo it end been to solinoid had to be replased it took nissan 2 days to find the problom and luck it was under warranty

Sorry for the bad news
 
Had it diagnosed by Nissan Yesterday, turns out the actuator is stuffed. The good new is I can keep driving around in 2wd and won't cause any more damage. The bad news is a new actuator is $2200 or a new transfer (which comes with an actuator) is $4000. (wish I knew someone with one still under warranty:/)
:eek2:
Nissan tech advised the 2 common causes for actuator failure are water entering the system via breathers (this can be overcome with ARB extended breathers) or over revving in 4Low, such as being bogged in thick mud and revving the crap out of it for an extended period to get out.
 
Had it diagnosed by Nissan Yesterday, turns out the actuator is stuffed. The good new is I can keep driving around in 2wd and won't cause any more damage. The bad news is a new actuator is $2200 or a new transfer (which comes with an actuator) is $4000. (wish I knew someone with one still under warranty:/)
:eek2:
Nissan tech advised the 2 common causes for actuator failure are water entering the system via breathers (this can be overcome with ARB extended breathers) or over revving in 4Low, such as being bogged in thick mud and revving the crap out of it for an extended period to get out.

Give Adam at Niss4X4 Wreckers a call
 
I called Adam on Friday, parts should arrive today or tomorrow. Hope it all works out. I've never purchased over the phone without seeing the product before.
 
Bugger, bum, poop. The parcel turned up on Friday and I just opened it today to find out they sent the wrong part. Aaaaaargh.

Does anyone know if there is a parts catalog online so I can find the correct part number?
 
Fast is the Nissan parts cattledog it's downloadable from some unnamed sources and comes in two parts, the first part is the program (doesn't run on 64bit operating systems) and the second part is the parts list for all Nissan cars and it's region specific. You can search by parts or search by VIN and it's the same thing the dealer uses. I have seen it working and am in the process of getting a copy burnt but I'm sure some of you can find it on the web if you try hard enough
 
End story, got the right actuator, but it never fixed the problem. Can't afford to pay a mechanic to find out what the problem is, so now I have a 2wd D40 :(
 
Nice diagnosing Nissan. F they're hopeless. Getting your frustration.
Think I better buy that extended warranty, or somthn else.
 
Bugger, bum, poop. The parcel turned up on Friday and I just opened it today to find out they sent the wrong part. Aaaaaargh.

Does anyone know if there is a parts catalog online so I can find the correct part number?

Contact Gary aka Nizzbits at [email protected] - he will certainly help you out service and accuracy is second to none IMHO and they are genuine Nissan parts.
 
I talk to a guy that towed a caravan up to the top end of Queensland with his D40 and while he was away his did the same thing. I remember him saying something about a relay under the bonnet went and it had to be replaced. He had to pull the relay out the get it out of low range and when he needed low range he would put it back in to get him out of trouble. Hope that help.
 
It could be the relay. When you were crossing the water did you have a wading bra? There's a chance water got into the relays.

The Transfer Relay box sits on the right-hand side of the car behind the battery. The transfer relays are in the front row closer to the headlights.

The transfer shift low relay is the second one in from the guard towards the engine. The next one (should be the middle one out of the five in that row) is the transfer shutoff relay 1 and the 4th relay in from the guard is the transfer shift high relay. The transfer shift off relay 2 is in the back row closest to the engine.

The above is assuming that your relay box is oriented like the drawing in the manual, which shows the wiper washer filler next to the side of the "fuse and relay box".

We should be able to compare relay operation between D40s and find out which one isn't working in yours.

Something tells me we need to hold a NSW "grab ya spanner and see how much damage you can do" day or two.
 
This is a sad tale, and one I've often heard - that's why I tend to like an actual lever to shift between 4h 4l and 2h. Is it just me, or do these push button 4wd seem like bad news?

Forgot to add - hope it gets sorted soon & for not too much coin!
 
There is a 06 rodeo at work push button, Must admit its easy press the button hey presto 4wd hi engaged but to get in low is slow and painful put car in neutral press button and wait for light to stop flashing big pain in arse. Thats why i love my d22 shift the stick and away you go, And its dual purpose (read main purpose) it carrys my stubbie holder every where i go.
 

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