Are you thinking of putting on that second lift??

Since there has been so much interest in the 4inch option (2 inch spring and 35mm strut spacer and extended shackles) I decided to post my progress, problems, costs and solutions in this thread for everyone who is thinking of doing it to give you an insight before you go ahead.

FRONT END.
CV angle is acceptable about same as stock but upside down.
Extended ball joints are required or aftermarket UCA. (I will post details upon installing upper ball joints)
Offset UCA bushes are required in the stock arms I am unsure about aftermarket ones. Nolathane make these unsure of part no but they are required to be pressed in I booked Pedders to install these and a wheel alignment for $470.
Brake lines have enough slack and do not require extra length.
ABS lines are not required to be repositioned.


The CV angle with 35mm spacer block and 2 inch lift spring installed.


The gap between the UCA and top hat of strut tower.

REAR END
Tail shaft I have been advised by Snake (someone who has toyed with the lifts) is acceptable to remain stock and no spacer required.
Brake lines require extension. Recomend upgrade to braided lines. Will require 4.5 inch minimum added length to stock legth. These cost me $250 supplied and installed.
Rear shocks require replacing as extended shocks for a 50mm lift are too short and will not allow any down travel from ride height.
The only off the shelf type shock I found available was a Rancho 9000xl shock suitable for a 4 inch lift. These are adjustable I found setting 2 soft enough for road any firmer and the rear end will step out on gravel roads and give harsh ride. cost was about $430 for the pair
ABS lines require rerouting some thinking ahead here will be required.
modification of some existing brackets will help. Also moving mounted plugs on passenger side will help also. These can be adjusted easily by tapping with a hammer. I also ran conduit over the ABS lines to protect from any abrasions or cuts caused by bush bashing.


Lift height rear. Note for those who may not realise tray sits higher than tub spare wheel underneath sits at same height.


Some of the flex you can get.

As for costs this is a guide only.
SNake lift blocks and shackles $440
Rancho shocks $430
Extended brake lines $250
UCA offset bushes installed $470

woop woop!

very nice .... hmmmm .. would love to see you at a VNOG outing so i can stick my head under your truck and have a good look see !

Update for the UCA offset bushes.
There is enough play in them to return to factory spec camber!!!

Hey mate are they still 16 inch rims you are running?
If so do you reckon you could get a measurement from the bottom lip of the rim to the underside of the gaurd (not including your extra flare bit)?

I am very interested to see what you ended up with.

Also do you think that the offset upper control arm bushes would bring the upper arm in further (to get more negative camber) and therefore make it easier for the arm to contact the coil hat?
Do you have the balljoint spacer thingys installed?

Sorry for all the questions but someone has to be the guinea pig. lol I am just used to it being me!

Cheers
Brian

Yeah still 16" rims and I have 365mm clearance between guard and rim.
I can tell the difference just by getting in and the angle of the LCA.
The offset arm bushes made a whole of 2 deg difference so maybe it pulled it in 10mm it will hit the top hat regardless of the offset bushes being installed.
I do need to install extended ball joints. I have been told something about the rubber perishing prematurely. But either way Ill give them a go.

looking good
I have seen them driving round with heaps worse camber than that
you could always try the LCA offset bushes instead of the ball joints as they would give you a few more degrees

Just for your own referance I just measured my setup and I currently sit with 340mm from guard to rim and have virtually zero camber with the heim joints at full adjustment

this is where we can run into some dramas with measurements...
Aussie you have 17" rims don't you?

Also this measurement you have given is from the top of the rim right? Normally suspension is measured from bottom of rim to guard.
Maybe we should be measuring from the centre of hub for consistancy with different size rims.

I have both 16 and 17 actually and I have the 16's on at the moment.
measuring to the rim edge is actually easier as the center of the wheel is sometimes not so accurate
Guard to wheel center 550mm
Guard to ground 920mm however truck is minus all its bars etc so possibly a little light on

that pic was taken prior to the offset bushes being installed.

just on the whole UCA, coil bucket contact, and extended ball joint issue:

recently came across these.. look pretty nice, and are really well priced!

D40 Upper Arms

hey brian when can we do something like this to mine ! i want more lift in the front haha , i see you guys are offering a 5 - 6 inch lift for thai builds :O

smootha said:

just on the whole UCA, coil bucket contact, and extended ball joint issue:

recently came across these.. look pretty nice, and are really well priced!

D40 Upper Arms

Click to expand...

I never thought to considered that that could be a price for the pair.
Brain fart or what??!?

smootha said:

just on the whole UCA, coil bucket contact, and extended ball joint issue:

recently came across these.. look pretty nice, and are really well priced!

D40 Upper Arms

Click to expand...

Is that price for 1 or 2 arms?

I prefer the PRG version, I couldn't get them engineered in Vic, but Aussie Frontier got his approved in ACT.

Thats for the pair .The big differance is that the PRG units are fully adjustable where the Calmini isnt .There is also the Total Chaos arms too
Total Chaos arms

Calmini Arms

PRG Arms


TC and PRG appear to be the best build quality but the onlyone with adjustability is the PRG.
You will notice some similarities between the TC and PRG arms in design and use of the Uniball. The 2 companies used to be close shall we say and thats a long long story.

I had a heap of trouble trying to get mine engineered at first. I litterally had to go from shop to shop with the arms trying to find someone to look at them. Most engineers would not even look at them because of the use of heim joints stating that no heim joints are legal in Aus. Funny how some models of Fords use Heim or Spherical bearing joints in the rear .Eventually I found an Engineer who was willing to have a look and as it turns out he owned a Navara D40 so he knew exactly what he was looking at.
I dare say he isnt the only one and there will be at least one somewhere in Vic.If someone wants to try I am willing to get all the info you will need on materials used etc and tech specs on all components. My engineer stated that the PRG is very much stronger than the stock arms

If I had known that price was for a pair I would have got them as oposed to paying same amount for offset bushes BLAH

Am actually thinking bout going the LCA offset bushes so I can go maybe 20mm higher and still retain camber near to zero
Nolathane Bush Kit - Control Arm 45587
Should be able to get the bush's changed over myself so just some more lift on the coilovers and we will be right to go

im considering this path , with coilovers .. i emailed prg a week or so ago and never got a reply so i dont know whats going on... all i want is more front end lift ffs !

You have to remember Greg from PRG is running a business and trying to raise a family. Just give him a little time to respond ok.He is a great guy who stands behind his kit 150% but being a small business he cant be everything to everyone at the same time.