Hi all, I am having an ordinary time with my 2007 d40 diesel manual. After experiencing power cut-outs to the point of much frustration, I took it to Bayside Nissan. I was told it needed injectors done. At 120,000 kms and blowing a bit of smoke, I thought fair enough, they need to be done sooner or later. Forked out the $2800 and drove it home. Later that day I kid you not, it was doing the same thing again, so I drove it straight back and told them to hold my cheque, we have an issue. They had already cashed the cheque. To cut a long story short it has been a couple of months of too-ing and fro-ing, my car still cutting out every now and then. Last fri, it got to the point where my car was starting, but as soon as I touched the accelerator the car would die. Towed back to Nissan, they assure me it will be fixed as if it were under warranty. However where does this leave me regarding the $2800 that didn't fix any problems in the first place? Is this familiar to any other bloggers?? It's a shame for me because I love my Navara, however walking in and out of that dealership is leaving a sour taste in my mouth. To rub salt into the wounds, I am thinking of ways to explain myself to the boys at work on Monday, as I am six foot three, and am cruising in a nissan micra courtesy car. Cred. Thanks for reading! Needed to get it off my chest!!
D40 problems!!
- Thread starter Ledbeater
- Start date
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First of all, they charged you to repair the vehicle and it was not repaired, so you do have the right to bring the issue before Fair Trading if they are unable/unwilling to fix it. The service department may have believed that the work they did (and charged you $2800 for) was correct and hence they believed that the charge was correct.
They are correct that they must now ensure that the vehicle is fixed without further charge to you.
I don't think I'd have pulled the injectors straight away anyway. If the car's cutting out just after you're putting your foot on the gas, it could be several things. Coincidence, with air in the fuel lines - as you try to accelerate the pump deprimes and fuel rail pressure hits zero. It could be a faulty EGR valve pumping exhaust gas into the intake dampening the combustion completely. It could be a crank angle sensor failure (it might just be loose). It could be a faulty fuel pump - that sucker alone is worth $4,000.
There are a number of reasons why it would do that. They may have chosen injectors the first time because it showed some error code that implied an injector issue. Unfortunately they follow a recipe book, which means that 99% of the time they get it right, but 1% of the time they don't and have to investigate further.
It's just unfortunate that the 1% seems to happen more than once in every hundred, and that it looks a whole lot closer to 100% for you right now.
But I'd sit back for now, let the dealer sort it out. They said they would, I'd take them on their word for it at the moment and see how it progresses.
As for the $2800 - they probably DID do that much work on the car already. If that work was wrong, they have a duty to you to fix it without charging you further, but they DID do that work and so the charge would likely be upheld if it went to tribunal. They are, after all, saying that they'll now fix it "as if it were under warranty" - which is not that bad a deal. You end up with spanking clean injectors and an engine that's been gone over with a fine tooth comb.
They are correct that they must now ensure that the vehicle is fixed without further charge to you.
I don't think I'd have pulled the injectors straight away anyway. If the car's cutting out just after you're putting your foot on the gas, it could be several things. Coincidence, with air in the fuel lines - as you try to accelerate the pump deprimes and fuel rail pressure hits zero. It could be a faulty EGR valve pumping exhaust gas into the intake dampening the combustion completely. It could be a crank angle sensor failure (it might just be loose). It could be a faulty fuel pump - that sucker alone is worth $4,000.
There are a number of reasons why it would do that. They may have chosen injectors the first time because it showed some error code that implied an injector issue. Unfortunately they follow a recipe book, which means that 99% of the time they get it right, but 1% of the time they don't and have to investigate further.
It's just unfortunate that the 1% seems to happen more than once in every hundred, and that it looks a whole lot closer to 100% for you right now.
But I'd sit back for now, let the dealer sort it out. They said they would, I'd take them on their word for it at the moment and see how it progresses.
As for the $2800 - they probably DID do that much work on the car already. If that work was wrong, they have a duty to you to fix it without charging you further, but they DID do that work and so the charge would likely be upheld if it went to tribunal. They are, after all, saying that they'll now fix it "as if it were under warranty" - which is not that bad a deal. You end up with spanking clean injectors and an engine that's been gone over with a fine tooth comb.
joe2006
Member
Speedo error? 
Can you take a photo?
Can you take a photo?
K
KraftyPg
Guest
You must have got an aussie model, they speed limit aussie models because they know at that speed the fuel tank isn't large enough to travel between servos on the highway.
^lol
But I must admit mine wont go over the $160 mark either coincidence or just plain nuts driving 3 tons at that speed.??!?
In my defense there were a lot of cars to overtake at one given time. Like seriously I had to get some mud action in before the end of the day sittin behind gramps and his family he was so lazy he was laying in a box in the back of a wagon while being chaufered. What is this world coming to?? If he had been wearing a seatbelt everyone could be going the speed limit.
But I must admit mine wont go over the $160 mark either coincidence or just plain nuts driving 3 tons at that speed.??!?
In my defense there were a lot of cars to overtake at one given time. Like seriously I had to get some mud action in before the end of the day sittin behind gramps and his family he was so lazy he was laying in a box in the back of a wagon while being chaufered. What is this world coming to?? If he had been wearing a seatbelt everyone could be going the speed limit.
Aussie Frontier
Member
I know my manual goes well over 160 but then I do it on race tracks etc under control situations .
Is "now" an appropriate time to remind people that the law in relation to overtaking does say that you can overtake, but are not allowed to break the speed limit while overtaking?
Any notion of "15km/h above the speed limit while overtaking" or similar is pure urban myth.
In Australia, the fastest you can legally drive on public roads is 130km/h. If you want to take it onto a racetrack, you'll be working the engine over anyway and removing the restriction.
And as for the comment about 3 tonnes @ 160km/h ... yep, it's crazy alright, but truckers used to do worse on the Nullabor with 40+tonnes.
Any notion of "15km/h above the speed limit while overtaking" or similar is pure urban myth.
In Australia, the fastest you can legally drive on public roads is 130km/h. If you want to take it onto a racetrack, you'll be working the engine over anyway and removing the restriction.
And as for the comment about 3 tonnes @ 160km/h ... yep, it's crazy alright, but truckers used to do worse on the Nullabor with 40+tonnes.
V6 2wd less weight more power.
hmm makes me miss my old Rodeo sometimes.
Its a mission to push 3 tonns of steel with aerodynamics equilivant to a house over the $1.60 mark with 2.5 litres of oil burning power.
Aussie Frontier
Member
Yeah the 4x4 isnt that much heavier in the grand scheme of things and my mates diesel runs almost as fast as mine both manuals and both on the race track and his is 4x4
I would be wild to say the least , any way i also had the same problem with my 07 D40 TD i would go and take off and it wouldnt go anywhere, i took it back to the yard and they sent it straight to Lakeside Nissan for diagnosis, to cut a long story short i had a (frp relief valve fault) carried out suction control relearn and recheck , replaced the fuel filter and so far been about a month now and all is good i have power back oh and it only cost the yard a few hundred dollars
The auto version does 150km/hr, it was legal too. command vehicle for CFS, they are allowed 40km/hr over the speed limit. Was not me driving though.
have same problem with jules but mine's worst coz it's only 3yrs old and 35k mileage.
what can i do it seems nissan philippines don't know what to do with it! is anyone successful in fixing the same problem of loss of power?
what can i do it seems nissan philippines don't know what to do with it! is anyone successful in fixing the same problem of loss of power?
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The new common rail engines are like fuel injection cars they are smart enough to sense your drinving and calibrate to levels lower than that.
I had problems stalling it everytime I tried taking off from lights. Nissan remapped my fuel pump with a "4X4 mode" into it (proberbly just wound it out slightly to allow more fuel pass)
which helped immensly!!! Another thing that helped mine more again is blocking the EGR valve and resetting the ECU every now and then and for the first tank of fuel give it the berries!!!! the computer will think your always thrashing it and calibrate to a hard driving mode slightly lower than the rate you drive it at. Eventually after time it will relearn to driving circumstances of lighter driving styles again and power down. so keep the berries into it every now and then when you have the chance.
Just keep the cobwebs out of it basically make the ECU think it needs power..
Ofcourse that will work only if theres no problem with the motor itself.
But it doesnt cost anything to give it a try.
I had problems stalling it everytime I tried taking off from lights. Nissan remapped my fuel pump with a "4X4 mode" into it (proberbly just wound it out slightly to allow more fuel pass)
which helped immensly!!! Another thing that helped mine more again is blocking the EGR valve and resetting the ECU every now and then and for the first tank of fuel give it the berries!!!! the computer will think your always thrashing it and calibrate to a hard driving mode slightly lower than the rate you drive it at. Eventually after time it will relearn to driving circumstances of lighter driving styles again and power down. so keep the berries into it every now and then when you have the chance.
Just keep the cobwebs out of it basically make the ECU think it needs power..
Ofcourse that will work only if theres no problem with the motor itself.
But it doesnt cost anything to give it a try.
