recovery point drama

Crispy79 · Jun 13, 2011

brought some recovery points but no fit,
2011 d22 it does not have the bolted on tie down points but does have an 8mm thick plate slotted out for a bow shackel, this is welded all round to the rail, outback points are 10mm thick and to fit i either need to slice a large portion of them off or start cutting away at the factory pressing which look like bracing to make fit.

Has anyone else run into this issue?
would full welded factory point have more strenght than 2x m12 bolts?

unkn0wn · Jun 13, 2011

Hi, I have a D21 and its very similar style points.

I cut a piece of L bar (quite thick) and drilled two holes for the recovery hook on one side and two for the body mount holes.

Then drilled a hole in the stock Nissan recovery point. Mounted the L bracket and bolted the recovery hook thro the L bracket , tho the stock Nissan point and bolted to a plate on the other side.

1st major recovery, slight angle, everything bent including the stock Nissan recovery point.

Its still there, just on a slight angle now. If it was a dead straight recovery then it may have been fine.

the stock Nissan one, even reinforced bent, so you would be better of going with your aftermarket option.

perhaps have a welder weld it on, for more permanent strength? or make up a proper bracket so it cab be mounted correctly?

Aido · Jun 13, 2011

Crispy79 said:
brought some recovery points but no fit,
2011 d22 it does not have the bolted on tie down points but does have an 8mm thick plate slotted out for a bow shackel, this is welded all round to the rail, outback points are 10mm thick and to fit i either need to slice a large portion of them off or start cutting away at the factory pressing which look like bracing to make fit.

Has anyone else run into this issue?
would full welded factory point have more strenght than 2x m12 bolts?

That is definitely an all new design....looks like the found an even cheaper way of doing things on the cheap.
The factory points will suffice on a direct pull but not side pull...they will fold over.

digbyj · Jun 13, 2011

Looks like a tough one Crispy, there's a few blokes on here who are pretty court with this stuff so hopefully someone can help, hey Aido, have you tried the factory points with an equaliser strap? After the other thread I'm going with your recommendation of softly softly catchy monkey and an equaliser!

Aido · Jun 13, 2011

digbyj said:
Looks like a tough one Crispy, there's a few blokes on here who are pretty court with this stuff so hopefully someone can help, hey Aido, have you tried the factory points with an equaliser strap? After the other thread I'm going with your recommendation of softly softly catchy monkey and an equaliser!

Have to say that I have never used my front points....in fact never had to be recovered at all. Winch has pulled me out a few times though. Have recovered others though using their front points and not had any problems.
I do go about "snatching in a different way though. Just because it is a "snatch strap" doesn't mean you have to "snatch" on the first attempt. From experience if you are recovering another vehicle most times all you need to do is select 1L and creep forward loading up the strap. There is enough torque in the tow vehicle plus the stored inertia in the stretched strap to overcome a boggy sittuation. If However the stranded vehicle is belly down in the mud then a gentle tug is the next step. Too often I see references in the media that you need to gun it and yank the bejebus out of the stuck vehicle. Work your way up to it.

nakedape · Jun 15, 2011

Aido said:
Have to say that I have never used my front points....in fact never had to be recovered at all. Winch has pulled me out a few times though. Have recovered others though using their front points and not had any problems.
I do go about "snatching in a different way though. Just because it is a "snatch strap" doesn't mean you have to "snatch" on the first attempt. From experience if you are recovering another vehicle most times all you need to do is select 1L and creep forward loading up the strap. There is enough torque in the tow vehicle plus the stored inertia in the stretched strap to overcome a boggy sittuation. If However the stranded vehicle is belly down in the mud then a gentle tug is the next step. Too often I see references in the media that you need to gun it and yank the bejebus out of the stuck vehicle. Work your way up to it.

That would be common sense though, and we all know that's in short supply :sarcastic:

albatross · Aug 7, 2011

Bit of a thread Hi-jack hear but im also having Outback Ideas recovery point dramas,
From what i can tell, the holes on the chassis were im supposed to mount these are spaced further apart then the holes on the recovery hook. Its a 2003 d22 diesel that its going on to, is there a secret trick that I havent managed to find the handshake too that anyone can tell me about? Or have I just been supplyed with the wrong points? The label on them states for the 100, 80 and the d22 so its labled correctly, but im not too sure.
Cheers in advance!

RustyNav09 · Aug 7, 2011

Crispy- that looks like the points I used. Just ignore thlhe cheap point next to it. My 09 str is the same.

Albatross- they should fit, I found mine were just far enough apart I had to wriggle the bolt around a bit and also had to chip the red powdercoating off the inside of the holes.

Goodluck
Rusty

digbyj · Aug 7, 2011

This has been covered in a few other threads but basically the centre to centre of recovery points should be between 70 and 76mm and your threaded holes should also be within that tolerance. You then have to elongate one of the holes on the point.
We discussed this and everyone measured and everyone's holes were slightly different but in about that range.
Cheers, Marcus

tweak'e · Aug 7, 2011

don't forget they are just captive nuts loosely welded. they may not be in straight and may be misshaped etc. i had to tap mine out to get bolts to fit.

i would also fit a strengthening bar as the chassis is only thin steel.

albatross · Aug 9, 2011

digbyj said:
This has been covered in a few other threads but basically the centre to centre of recovery points should be between 70 and 76mm and your threaded holes should also be within that tolerance. You then have to elongate one of the holes on the point.
We discussed this and everyone measured and everyone's holes were slightly different but in about that range.
Cheers, Marcus

Well there is the problem im experencing right there. The holes are within that range but the center to center of the hooks is only 60mm.
so looks like its elongating time! Luckly I'll be in the workshop for work in a week or two so use the machines there to make life easy!
Do they come like this because they are designed to fit 80/100 series and it just so happens they can fit a d22 as well?
:cheers!:

recovery point drama

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