Time for new rotors and pads.

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Eug

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According to Nissan my front rotors/pads need to be changed and was quoted $600. While the OEM have been okay they haven't lasted as long as I hoped whilst towing loads. Personally I think there's a bit more left in them and just Nissan getting a bit greedy.

I've previous run Hawk pads on my previous car but can't find a supplier for them in Brisbane, anyone? Thinking of running Bendix pads and thinking of going for DBA rotors (which I've used previously).

However I've seen some RDA rotors floating about, anyone have experience on these?
Previously ran slotted and cross-drilled rotors on the previous car, but thinking mud/dirt/sand might not be so good on the Navara, thoughts?

I tow about 1000kg doing plenty of highway driving and on the sand. Open to alternatives and costs also if you've got a ballpark.

Cheers in advance.

Eug
 
cross drilled are no good they crack between the holes.

DBA rotors I have used on commodores and wore well.
just make sure you use the right pads with the discs. By that I mean if you use slotted rotors buy hard pads that do not rely on the pad applying a coating of itself to the rotor to grip. (titanium stripe pads i think do this) The reason for this is too hard for me to explain in writing
You want pads that rely on pure friction from pad to metal. I couldnt tell you what type of pads these are but a brake parts seller should be able to advise you which pads suit which rotors and fill in the blanks ive left out.
Sorry for the blahhness.
 
Thanks for the advice.
My impression on the titanium strip was for bedding in, but will look further into pad:rotor combinations.
 
Hi
I have previously used Bendix pads with Titanium stripes and found that I was machining the rotors (DBA slotted) every 10 to 15,000 km, a friend of mine works for ABS and told me to stick to the cheap soft pads, it less costly throwing in a set of pads than constantly machining and replacing rotors ! On the down side they may be subject to brake fade when constantly towing under extreme conditions.
 
I haven't had to change either pads or rotors on any of my cars. I always though dba rotors and bendix pads was the best combo. Rotors being drilled and slotted. But I think just slotted would be good.
 
Bendix pads are to hard, they shudder and the brake feel is shit.

Softer pads work better.
 
Hi guy's,
Just had the same issue, asked the same questions, do a lot of towing etc & if you don't keep the rear brakes adjusted wheel the pedal feels a bit ordinary.
Well fitted DBA slotted rotors with Hawk Ceramic pads and so far not totally happy with them. The pads omit no dust like the originals, but i think they are that hard they don't grip as well???, my thoughts, please let me know what you go with and how they go please.
 
I run the DBA drilled and Slotted rotors with the first set of Hawke racing pads in Aus as a test from Compfriction . I have found no issues with the setup at all so far. 60K plus and still going strong.
You might need to have your brakes bled as many people have had issues after changing out the brakes.
As part of the 80K service I have to have my brake fluid swapped out so am going to install SS lines at that time as its meant to give a better pedal feel.
 
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