front wheels hanging top in

Hey guys

i bought a 91 nav dual cab diesel 4X4. The front wheels were top over into the guards. Last owner said upper control arm bushes, which needed doing, and i found the control arm has been hitting and got jammed onto the shockie.

I ground the lip off the control arm and flogged it in to clear the shock, and tigged a bit of 3 mm onto the bottom to box the arm cos i was worried about the removal of parent mettal weekening it.

Anyway i did not alter the geometary of the arm but now all back together my wheel is better with the clearance and nolothane bushes but is still pointed top over toward the engine? ! ?

Why would this be happening its beyond me? . Its 2 inch body and 2 inch suspension lift by previous owner using ironman gear.

Whats the thoughts dion, dave, and everyone else? ?????

So you're saying you have too much negative camber?

Photos would help us to understand whether it would be fixable with a wheel alignment, or if there's something else going on.

Dion said:

So you're saying you have too much negative camber?

Photos would help us to understand whether it would be fixable with a wheel alignment, or if there's something else going on.

Click to expand...

How do i put up pics bro?

Gahhhh. . . Yep righto, got ya.

Now only problem is my stupid comp wont let me. Keeps timing out.

Is the control arm biting into shock a comon problem?

To describe it. If i put the level on the bottom of the tyre and bring the bubble to square there is about 15 mm gap at top of tyre. Both wheels are pointed straight not toe out or in by eye just the top leaning in towards each other.

Control arm biting shock is a common problem on the D22 with larger bore aftermarket dampers. I'm not sure if the same applies to the D21 but my OMEs don't get bitten at all.

You have excessive negative camber. By the sounds of it an alignment would fix the problem, however it's an odd circumstance because usually after a lift the camber is too positive. Anyway, my next step would be to take it to be aligned. Make sure to mention to them that your ride height is 2" higher than standard.

Ok

pictures are coming.

I will have it alinged. Ill just tell them its 2inch body with 2inch suspension lift.

It makes me wonder what else on the old girl is dodgy half assed. . . I also found the tie rod end does not have a castle nut just an old nail through the hole. This will account for some of the problem im sure! . Castle nut from the wreckers tomorrom morning after 12 hour night shift. . . YAY! . Also only 2 bolts in the joint on the end of control arm and 2 empty holes! ! !.

Urgh, i cant understand the bodgy job mentality of some people! .

This is suposed to be my new work truck so i dont keep running my Evolution into the ground. . .And its turning into my work on truck! .

The amount of body lift wont change the steering geometry.
The castle nut is no different from a normal nut as far as keeping things together. Its just used so you can lock it in place so to speak with a split pin.
Sounds l;ike the truck was setup with a lot more lift at some stage and whoever has just dropped it back to 2" without bothering to reset anything.

Agreed the castle nut is just a normal nut with recesses in it at the top to take the split pin. Nissan decided there should be a castle nut there so, meah, ill put one on.

The thing i dont understand tho is not putting the nut on at all and thinking a nail would be up to the task! .

No wonder the control arm jammed its self stuck on the shockie with this standard of work. Its the same as me tacking a lift lug on at work. . .Its just not up to the task and bound to fail!

Request accepted.

Can you see now where it was jammed. Why? . It misses now with clearancing and boxing the arms.

Ironmam will do replacement ones at 50% off but want pictures of my modded arms and the dinted ones. . . Go figure huh

Something is not right here. But I'm having trouble working out just what. How many bumpstop rubbers can you count?

Sweet! .

Ok. 3rd one down is it jamed. . . Would you not have picked up on that while installing.

Also ironman says that part number is the correct one so. . . Is something else a miss to cause this?


And there was just one bump stop that fell of during the un-stucking process so its out of the pic. Was on the under side of control arm towards the front and looked like sikaflexed on.

fst_38 said:

Sweet! .

Ok. 3rd one down is it jamed. . . Would you not have picked up on that while installing.

Also ironman says that part number is the correct one so. . . Is something else a miss to cause this?


And there was just one bump stop that fell of during the un-stucking process so its out of the pic. Was on the under side of control arm towards the front and looked like sikaflexed on.

Click to expand...

So there are two bumpstops per side? One for up and one for down? The arm seems to travel too far down because my OME dampers are about the same size and they don't get hit. Something may be installed incorrectly but I'm not sure what.

Is it happening on both sides??

It may have had a massive knock on the bottom arm, that would push the bottom back and the top to remain the same, take some measurments on both sides and see where it compares.

it looks like your CV is on a slight angle back too.

Check for cracks in the bottom arm.

Stuart

There is one bump stop per side. Its sitting on the bottom of the arm.

Yes its same on both sides. Both stuck that is. This was just supposed to be simple bushes but i think they could be telling porkies cos SH!75 not adding up here

No obvious marks to indicate its been hit

checked, no cracks, thank goodness!

How many bumpies should there be dion and whats there correct location. Do you have a picture of standard layout? . Why would these be removed/left out? What ever could be gained would be negated by damage caused!

CV shaft is out if you look closely. Re packed with new clean grease and put boot back on. These will be next to replace, mostly just for peace of mind. Judging by the state of the grease that came out and the feel of the shaft in general

fst_38 said:

There is one bump stop per side. Its sitting on the bottom of the arm.

Click to expand...

Here's how it's supposed to be:



Looks like maybe you're missing your downtravel bumpstop, which would explain the UCA cutting into the damper. And it makes sense that somebody doing a hackjob 3-4" lift would remove the bumpstop, and dial in massive negative camber to make the wheels aligned at 4" over standard. Just a theory.

Hummmmm. . .

See i dont think i have that pad looking one tucked away up in there and i had the bumpstop glued onto the control arm itself. I have already modified and strenthened both control arms too. . . Gee this frustrates me.

So, how to tell if its not done correctly and how to fix?. I asked again and it is only 2 inch suspension and 2 inch body. . . Urgh, this is not lining up. . .

Well nolothane UCA bushes wont hurt and at least the control arms are safe now. New shocks ordered cos i dont trust the stuck ones. . .

Where to from here with it tho?