Cruise control not engaging

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Dazza63

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Been asked before I guess but I cant find it. My light comes on the dash "cruise" but you cant set it. I have replaced the rubbers on brake and clutch under dash still no difference. I heard that the clock spring wears out in steering wheel could this be and issue as well or a common thing I am having issues with my 4x4 solenoids on gearbox no 4lo engaging could they be related. I also read that the neutral positioning switch on box could be faulty ?????? any ideas tips thanks heaps in advance...They say drive along road and hold gear stick to the left or right and try to set cruise I tried that no go just frustrating...
Thanks
 
Ok, so yours is a manual.


It's very possibly the clock spring. I've replaced/repaired mine plenty of times, I've got 3 fully functional right-hand-drive spares (don't buy one off eBay that has an "L" stamped on the upper face, that's for a left hand drive car and won't cancel your indicators properly). What I do these days is just buy the ribbons and replace them, although I've got one (it's the one in my car now) that I've re-joined the ribbons together.


It's not just the rubbers but sometimes also the electrical connector and the adjustment of the switch. It's worth having a good look at them.


A multimeter will tell you if the clock spring's stuffed, but usually the cruise control goes then the horn stops working. You'll need a torx bit, a philips screwdriver (PH2) and a flat bladed screwdriver to pop the airbaig out - there's a hole in the underside of the steering wheel, you aim the screwdriver into the hole at 90 degrees to the steering column and push, the airbag pops out. Disconnect the horn wire and the airbag wire and it's away. Undo the two screws (torx) from under the shroud around the steering column then pop the shroud apart.


Undo the steering wheel nut and remove the steering wheel, taking care to disengage the electrical plugs.


Now you've exposed the clock spring. Press the clip retainers on each side of the housing to release the indicators and wiper switches - they just pop out easily. Undo the yellow and grey plugs underneath by pressing their locking tab and lifting them out - one holds the other in, I can't remember which one has to come out first. Two philips screws, press the tab in the top of the clock spring and it should come free and now you can test it (or replace it).


If you let the faulty clock spring go too long, it could trigger an airbag diagnostic light, and that could wreck the airbag diagnostic module which Nissan want $1,025 to replace (I bought one in a wreckers for $100 and thankfully it works).
 
Your absolute champion mate Tony I will check it all out when I get a moment this weekend hopefully I just hate having things not doing what they should or not working at all thanks for the info greatly appreciated indeed...
 
Before you start work on the clock spring, there's one more task BEFORE you turn off your engine as you park the vehicle that is IMPERATIVE. You cannot miss this one or you'll break the clock spring again ...


Straighten your wheels. Not just the steering wheel, but check that the wheels are pointed straight ahead.


As you're taking the clock spring off, use tape or something to lock the thing together in its place, or you'll have to do the count of the number of turns required (below) to centre it again.


If you need to check (and I do this anyway, just so that I'm absolutely certain), with the clock spring in your hand, turn the inner (lower) part as if you were turning the steering wheel, counting the full rotations.


On mine, I get about 2.75 turns in one direction and just over 3 turns the other way before it starts feeling stiff. I then count back the number of full turns and place the locking clip (that you get when you buy a new clock spring) over so it can't move, but this isn't really necessary.


The Navara D40 steering wheel needs about 2.25 full turns from "straight" to "full lock" in either direction, so if you want to test that before you put the clock spring back in, do it so that you feel confident about not breaking the spring after reinstalling it. Because of the power steering, it's really difficult to feel when you break the ribbon cable while it's installed.
 
I was just thinking, an easier way to do the counting is to stick two fingers of your left hand up through the hole from the bottom, with the black face and the "R" uppermost. Grasp the white knob - this locates in the steering wheel - and turn it instead, holding your left hand steady.


That's faster. I just went and tried one of my spares.
 
It could be the neutral position switch if 4lo won’t engage. the transfer case needs to know the gearbox is in neutral to change modes.

Had to replace the neutral position switch on mine to get the cruise working properly, but I was a me to hold the gearstick to the right in 5th or 6th to engage cruise after I adjusted the clutch sensor. Lately the clutch pedal hasn't always been fully returning which means the cruise won’t engage, but a quick lift with my foot fixes that.
 
Replaced clock spring and they told me it was for a RHD vehicle had the R on it but mongrels when it arrived had the L but it was new so installed it but made no difference to cruise control still didn't work. I know a silly question but to make sure I do it correctly how do you check the switch on brake pedal with a multimeter to make sure it is ok and which one exactly maybe I did wrong one. Thanks
Weirdly sometimes the b
indicators cancel fine and others I have to turn them off but it has new clock spring.
 
Testing the clock spring is a matter of checking continuity. It's a ribbon cable so once you get continuity on one line, checking the others is just a matter of moving across the ribbon. A left-hand-drive spring cancels differently but still works, so it's unlikely the clock spring.


There are two brake switches. The upper one (white plug, black socket) is the brake light connection which is where you'd tap into for a trailer brake controller. The lower one (brown connector and plug) is the cruise control. Normally if this switch is not operating correctly (and your brake lights are ok) you should get an error in the ECU (1572) without a Check Engine Light appearing. The switch should be OFF when the brake pedal is depressed and ON when it is released (that's my understanding of the drawings, I haven't put a multimeter to mine yet).
 
I think I need to do my clock spring also.
My horn and cruise and stuff still works fine but airbag light still flashing have reset a couple of times but comes back. Is there a way of testing the clockspring with out taking it apart?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
I think I need to do my clock spring also.
My horn and cruise and stuff still works fine but airbag light still flashing have reset a couple of times but comes back. Is there a way of testing the clockspring with out taking it apart?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I'd be having a close look at the airbag control module. I vaguely recall old Tony having issues with his and it being quite expensive, so he replaced it with a second hand one. Have you been able to diagnose the fault by either scanning the codes or counting the flashes of the light?
 
Well, my cruise has been working well for quite a while, but lately can’t turn it on sometimes. Ie the green light won’t come on. Didn’t work on two short drives, worked again once, then not again since. Clock spring? Haven’t noticed any airbag lights yet.
 
Check the connectors on the Gearbox. Unplug, contact cleaner and re-plug. Not saying it's going to be that easy but I had the same thing once After the bozos at the dealer removed and refitted the gearbox after miss diagnosing a warranty issue. Didn't connect one the plugs correctly and had the same symptoms you describe. On the output of the gearbox there is a speed sensor that is used for the cruise control and speedo, If there is no signal from that it takes speed from a wheel sensor. Cruise lights up but wont engage and yes, no low range.
 
I have checked all of the above got the 4wd working hi and lo but still no cruise Im just about ready to give up I have had it in to auto elect they checked all plugs and connectors adjusted the switches on pedals still no go frustrating. Had to replace the already new clock spring with genuine Nissan as the airbag light kept coming on. Again I appreciate all the ideas and help.
 
I have checked all of the above got the 4wd working hi and lo but still no cruise Im just about ready to give up I have had it in to auto elect they checked all plugs and connectors adjusted the switches on pedals still no go frustrating. Had to replace the already new clock spring with genuine Nissan as the airbag light kept coming on. Again I appreciate all the ideas and help.
Hey mate, my d40 did this, it was the neutral position sensor faulty... you can test it by seeing if the cruise will engage if you put pressure on your gearstick one direction, to the left or right, (I forget which way), whilst trying to engage cruise.
Not an expensive part, but fiddly to fit, I did mine from inside the car, (it's under the gear stick on top of gearbox). Hope this helps...
 
thanks Fuzz I tried holding the stick left and right no difference but I might get one and try it thanks.
Ill look and see thanks I appreciate it
 
I have actually replaced the sensor and the other two on gearbox with genuine brand new switches but it just dont wont to work the cruise Im just about over it but I hate things beating me, I dont particularly want to take it to Nissan as they are legalised extortionist to a point. But no one else seems to be able to sort it out for me. The auto electric guys no go, 3 new switches on gearbox. brand new clock original Nissan clock spring switches on brake and clutch pedals checked and adjusted Im out of things to try. Not complaining form the help from you good folk but just a bit frazzled with it all now. Its been a while trying to sort it out thats all. I am totally grateful for all replies and ideas I have tried them all.
Thanks.
 
Have you checked that the physical switch on the steering wheel isn't faulty? Try running a multi-meter over the switch to make sure it is working properly...
 

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