Knocking sound

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Benengel

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Hey guys please read the whole thread before answering ring
So over the last week I have developed a knocking sound me and all my mates haven't been able to find out exactly where the sound is coming from only that it is from the drive line.

So when driving you can start to hear a noticeable knocking sound coming from the front.
When in neutral windows up the sound is very noticably
Revs make no difference to the frequency of the sound.
Neutral or clutch it doesn't make a difference to the sound
Only eliminatea the noise of the engine.
The faster you go the more frequent the sound is so it's is a drive line part.
Today when re greased the drive side cvs and new boots as there was a rip
And we replaced both brakes pads drivers and passangerss
No difference to the sound, will re pack the passenger side tonorrow.
There is no play in the drive shaft.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
 
has it got locakable front hubs ?
if not check the front driveshaft, they are well known to flog them out.
 
You could drop the front driveshaft and take it for a drive and see if the noise is still there.

Could also be body mounts, from memory the fronts are the worst. Even though they look ok, they flog out and make noise.

Good luck figuring it out anyway...
 
Hey no it has auto hubs.
Can't seem to notice any play is there any specific ways of checking them?
aftermarket?
if not then i suspect what you actually mean is it has no lockable hubs fitted. i'm not aware of any that came with factory auto hubs.
some of the later D22's came out with no lockable hubs so the front axles and driveshaft turn all the time. which is probably why you ripped a cv boot.

some of the overseas d22's came with no lockable hubs and they chewed out the driveshaft so often nissan came out with a heavy duty drive shaft.
 
That's how they all come in Nz. Manual hubs are all after market.
Yeah most likely I really need to invest in manual hubs I think...
Ill try ripping that out tomorrow and see if it makes a difference, is there any tips or trick or pretty straight forward
 
Should only be 4 bolts either end and out she comes. Dunno how tight they will be, but with the hubs locked it won't free spin while you're undoing it at least... If you have to, you might need to move the car forward or back a bit to undo the top ones.
 
How are the wheel bearings? Jack up a wheel and give it a shake. It shouldn't move other than the steering itself.


How are the tyres? Is there a foreign object lodged in the tyre? How about the wheel balance, are there any weights on the rims, or are they missing?
 
Found the problem guys reference photo.
Sorry diff
 

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Well... I guess that's pretty conclusive... If you had manual hubs you could leave them unlocked and keep driving it til you get it fixed... Good luck with the replacement...
 
Yeah I think it's time to invest in manual hubs...
I'm not to worried about ruining the diff any more getting a 2nd hand one put in next week when I have time to find one. I just worried about ruining the drive line of I go into 4wd...
Drove about 2k so far with the diff like like so I don't think I can do to much more damage >. <
Not sure if there is any after market option such as an lsd from a different vechile if I can't find one I'll just get abother navara one and hope it doesn't fail on me at the next 100k interval
 
That's how they all come in Nz. Manual hubs are all after market.
only on the later ones, probably after 2008. all early ones have manual hubs and they will bolt straight on. the factory ones are better quality than most aftermarket ones.

i recommend not driving on it. if there is other bits floating around and they get into the bearings it could lock the diff right up and you won't be going anywhere.
if you find a 2nd hand diff, make sure the ration is correct as there is a few different ones.

i wonder if you can take the gear out of the hub and disconnect the axles from the front wheels. that would get you mobile. will have to check the books.
 
just had a look at the book. if you get stuck you could take off the wheel cap and unbolt the drive flange. that will stop the drive shaft being turned but it does leave bearings exposed to dust etc.
so not recommended but if you get stuck its a trick that you could do to get you home.
 
Cheers for that tweake I'll keep that in mind!
Any tips when buying a 2nd hand diff?
Most from the wreckers are around 1200 I found someone local who is willing to let it go for 200 but had double the kms mine broke at
 
how much off roading do you do?
if not much then once you fit front hubs it really doesn't matter.
if you do a lot then i suggest any diff you get should be checked. not uncommon for diffs to go a bit slack and worth tightening a bit.
 
I used to do a fair amount but now iv moved and not sure how much I'll be doing.
Bought the manual locking hubs today so will fit them shortly just incase the diff does lock
 

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