First oil change-advice please

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Chopz

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Hey Guys,

I'm going to attempt my first oil change on my ZD30 D22, and as this is my first diesel vehicle if someone could shed some light for me it would be greatly appreciated. I have searched, but the info I'm after I cant find.

Would I be right in saying that
1-Get the engine warm
2-remove sump plug and drain oil
3-While oil is draining remove the outer filter case and filter.
4-Check filter for any foreign matter
5-Replace sump plug
6-Replace filter with rubber ring
7-Then refill oil measuring with a cup

The area I'm not so sure on is the filter. How do you guys fill the filter up with oil when its horizontal? Doesnt the oil pour straight out? And is there a specific torque setting the filter case needs to be tightened too, or is by hand sufficient?

After having a petrol patrol and my Nav is my daily I want to make sure I get it right. Any help would be really great guys as I want to try and do this before the weekend if possible.
 
By mate, it's really quite a simple thing to do, and I highly recommend changing your oil filter at the same time, and preferably use genuine Nissan stuff, more costly, but the quality is alot better than what you get with after market gear. I'd get your self a bunch of old rags, a tin or two of "brake cleaner" and absolutely make sure you get an extra sump plug washer, it's a little copper washer that will crush down as you tighten up the sump plug (the guys at Nissan will have them.

The order I do mine is:
-PUT AN OLD TARP UNDER THE CAR!
-warm up the engine (i usually throw in an engine flush as well)
-Undo the filler cap and undo the filter canister a half turn
-undo the sump plug and drain.
-while it's draining remove filter canister and filter and clean canister with rags and brake cleaner (watch it because the filter canister will drop about a half-litre of oil)
-with a clean rag soaked in brake cleaner, wipe out the canister receptacle on the engine block.
-on the canister, be sure to remove the old o-ring and replace it (a new one should come with the new filter)
-Place new filter into the canister and replace canister onto engine block. From memory there is a torque setting molded into the canister - just follow that
-remove the old washer off the sump plug
-clean sump with brake cleaner
-replace crush washer
-replace sump plug
-fill with 6.7L of suitable oil (6.2L if you DON'T do a filter change)

All done!
 
Hey mate, as Josh man said above. But i will add, no you dont need to fill the oil filter up with oil. Just clean and replace it on the motor. Will fill itself.

Also, with the O'ring, rub it with new oil so it slides on easy when replaceing the filter. Otherwise it may grab and damage the o'ring.

Pete
 
I usually do pour oil into the filter and let it draw up into the element while the sump drains. I fill it half way and tip it to 45 deg and turn it a couple a times. Oil soon soaks up, if you have too much in it when you tip it side way's just tip a little out. Was told it allow's oil pressure to come up quicker. Dunno, sounded good to me.
 
You have a D40 don't you jjohn? D40's mount upside down putting any oil in the filter would just make for a puddle below.
 
Peteyen86 said:
Hey mate, as Josh man said above. But i will add, no you dont need to fill the oil filter up with oil. Just clean and replace it on the motor. Will fill itself.

Also, with the O'ring, rub it with new oil so it slides on easy when replaceing the filter. Otherwise it may grab and damage the o'ring.

Pete

Yeah, forgot to add this step, also helps to create a good seal.
 
Awesome. Thanks Josh, really appreciated. I'm a full bottle now. After reading this and doing some other searches I'm off to take back the Ryco filter back and buy a genuine jobby i think however.
 
i quickly compared the nissan filter to a cheaper on last time. Nothing really stood out that was different. I must admit, i didnt study them both but... is the filter material different?
 
Once you finish the service start the engine and wait for the oil light to go off- takes about 4 seconds, then shut it down and recheck your oil level as the filter takes a bit to fill.
 
there's no real difference between the quality of genuine and after market filters, some people just like it to say "Nissan" on it i guess and pay alot more for something that will do the same thing
 
What they all said.

Pull the air filter out after to and give it a good bash out/clean.
 
I usually do fuel and oil filters at the same time (5000km intervals, and the air filter every other time (10,000km interval)

As for using only genuine Nissan filters.... It's got nothing to do with liking it to say Nissan, it a matter of covering my ass. If something goes pear shaped, it's one less excuse anyone has to deny me a claim.
 
As for using only genuine Nissan filters.... It's got nothing to do with liking it to say Nissan, it a matter of covering my ass. If something goes pear shaped, it's one less excuse anyone has to deny me a claim.

I agree with that to some extent and while I'm fairly sure Nissan don't make their own filters the name on the side has some benefits even if it is only psychological.

However I've been buying the Genuine Nissan oil filters (don't need air as I just cycle two of them every 10K) purely because at trade price I'm getting them for $3 more than SCA and Autobahn want to charge for Ryco filters, and $3 is barely an issue to give Nissan one less thing to question if there was a problem,

For those who can't get trade price themselves but plan to do their own changes if you aren't friends with a mechanic who can get them at trade price contact Nizzbits and see if you can buy half a dozen. I don't really know how his prices compare but surely with half a dozen plus postage buying genuine in bulk for some peace of mind can't be worth much more than $20 of the price SCA etc want for Ryco ones.
 
there's no real difference between the quality of genuine and after market filters, some people just like it to say "Nissan" on it i guess and pay alot more for something that will do the same thing

the fact is all filters are manufactured to an australian standard or OEM standard most aftermarkets are close to OEM but more than likely built to A.S. i have always used ryco filters on my vehicles and have never had a problem. it all comes to personal preference, in saying that some of the higher price filters like your K&N etc are higher than most specs but can be bad too. i say use whatever you can afford or choose as long as its got clean oil and a new filter it will be fine everytime
cheers
brent
 
Hey i am going to be doing my first 5000km interval oil change on my zd30 d22 since owning it, what i would like to know is;

What size copper sump plug washer do i need?
What brand and grade of oil is best to use?
And how much roughly would a genuine Nissan oil filter cost just so i have a rough idea when i go in there.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
*bump

Only because i need to know asap as i will be goin to buy all the stuff to do it as soon as i know, so any help with this would be much appreciated.
 
There's a wealth of information on this site. Do a search for "oil change" and search titles only. You'll get all the info you need.

Failing that, if you're in brissy, I can come and give you a hand, mine needs a change as well, so I'll do that at the same time.
 
Hey i am going to be doing my first 5000km interval oil change on my zd30 d22 since owning it, what i would like to know is;

What size copper sump plug washer do i need?
What brand and grade of oil is best to use?
And how much roughly would a genuine Nissan oil filter cost just so i have a rough idea when i go in there.

Any help would be appreciated.

I can only go by what I know with a D40 but the sump plug washer is about this big <-------> I've got one sitting in the console of the ute but no effective measuring device.

Best oil is whatever the book says minus the Nissan Branding

My oil filter cost me $14 trade so I guess non trade would be expected to be around $30
 
i quickly compared the nissan filter to a cheaper on last time. Nothing really stood out that was different. I must admit, i didnt study them both but... is the filter material different?

its whats inside the filter that matters..the filter media is similar between the two but the bypass valve is a few psi different between the ryco Z89 and the nissan (Mann) made in Germany filter,
last time i went through both manufacturers documents....
you can also get filters without a bypass valve and/or longer filters if you want full filtration and/or more filter surface area.

Fact is though there IS a difference between the two.

.
 
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