Pilot/Spigot Bushing fitment

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incognico

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So I have a new spigot bushing to fit (with a new clutch kit) and am not familiar with this arrangement.

The bush is too large to press into the end of the crank as-is. The bush is correct (well, I have a couple ordered off the VIN from Nissan since I wasn't sure one came in the clutch kit and they are identical).

Does this outer steel section pull out from the end of the crank? Is that the old bushing I can see behind it?

Thanks for any tips!

--Nick

 
So I have a new spigot bushing to fit (with a new clutch kit) and am not familiar with this arrangement.

The bush is too large to press into the end of the crank as-is. The bush is correct (well, I have a couple ordered off the VIN from Nissan since I wasn't sure one came in the clutch kit and they are identical).

Does this outer steel section pull out from the end of the crank? Is that the old bushing I can see behind it?

Thanks for any tips!

--Nick


Looks like you have the flywheel off so no, this part stays on (it is part of the crank afaik). Yeah, that looks like what is left of the spigot bush, looks quite worn that one. They're a snug fit from memory and you might have to give it a very light hit with emery and very very gently tap it in (you don't want to bur the end).

There's all sorts of tools and tricks to get the old one out, but that one looks paper thin. It might be as easy to carefully break it with a screwdriver or something and remove it via mangulation lol.


ps. If the rear main crank seal is leaking at all this is a good time for that as well. I did mine with the clutch. Wasn't leaking but I figured why not, while it's apart. Lots more work though, the sump has to come off to do it properly.
 
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Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

I've taken a closer look and it appears that the current bush is larger in external diameter than the hole in the front. There's a definite lip behind the first steel piece that seems to be retaining the bush. It seems like this steel piece might come out??

If that center bore was the same diameter all the way back I'd happily mangle the existing one out!

So confused and really don't want to bugger up the crank! :unsure:

 
So I have a new spigot bushing to fit (with a new clutch kit) and am not familiar with this arrangement.

The bush is too large to press into the end of the crank as-is. The bush is correct (well, I have a couple ordered off the VIN from Nissan since I wasn't sure one came in the clutch kit and they are identical).

what engine do you have ?
 
never done one on a yd25, so no doubt someone who has will be along shortly.

Out of curiosity, what sort of flywheel do you have?
 
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Have I ended up with an auto crank somehow during my rebuild?

There's a thought.

Never seen a flywheel with that extra piece bolted on either, all the ones I have seen are simply one solid lump of metal. It doesn't look like dm flywheel, but again, not familiar with yd25 specifically.

It does look like the crank is for an auto. Have a look at the you tube vids, first one is a manual (go to 1.35), second one is for an auto (go to 35, looks much like yours).

[YT]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5H_XsxfP-Tw[/YT]

[YT]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQS0kztpUyQ[/YT]
 
Looks like a standard flywheel for a yd25 according to this...

https://ehautolink.com/products/YD25-D22-FRONTIER-ORIGINAL-FLYWHEEL-NISSAN---TH/965

The setup on the crank looks different though. Perhaps you are correct and it is for an auto..?

Afaik the d22 never had an auto version, but the same engine was used in different models that were available with auto. So if it is (and it does look like it) not sure what you would need to replace.
 
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Outcome

A follow up -

My 3-arm internal bearing puller wouldn't quite catch on the internal lip on that bushing and just kept coming out. I ordered the right size expanding-collet and made up an adapter to fit it on my slide hammer.

30 secs later: that big bushing pulled right out with no drama at all..!!

 
And for what it's worth, the spigot bushing pressed right in with no issues. Flywheel's on and I think this mystery is solved. Thanks for all the comments and advice.

 
Good stuff mate. Changed a few clutches over the years, never seen a spigot bush arrangement like that. You live and learn.
 
Hello everyone.
I just joined because I'm dealing with this issue, exactly, I'm changing my slippery clutch and I have a really important doubt. The main shaft of the gearbox has great play, like 1mm up and 1mm down, and that brass bushing has 16mm inside diameter and the main shaft of the gear box has 15mm diameter in the part that should go inside that bushing. I'm afraid about making a big mess if this is a you're-going-to-break-your-gearbox signal. ¿Should I open the gearbox and check the bearing on that shaft or is this great play a normal thing?

The truck did kind of soft metal noises when pushing the clutch pedal, now I'm sure that when the clutch plate was released, the vibrations were doing that plate and shaft vibrate and making that noise in consequence.

Thank you very much for any help for this new Navara owner trying to take good care of its truck. Regards from Spain.
 
Not sure what motor or even model your referring to. I bent up 2 bits of steel and clamped a vise grip onto both bits of steel and levered it out. Was nice and easy. Made it so when they were back to back they matched the width of the bush. Took 5min to make the tool. Tapped new one in with a socket.
 

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Not sure what motor or even model your referring to. I bent up 2 bits of steel and clamped a vise grip onto both bits of steel and levered it out. Was nice and easy. Made it so when they were back to back they matched the width of the bush. Took 5min to make the tool. Tapped new one in with a socket.
Really nice tool, gonna try that for sure. Mine is a YD25 with M/T 6 gears and 4wd. What really makes me worry is if that play in the main shaft of the gearbox is OK or not. The thing that gets into that brass bushing moves 1mm up and 1mm down, and that can mean some bearing or other parts can be broken inside the gearbox, that if it's not some kind of free coupling intended to bear the clutch inconsistencies. I'm going to open my gearbox today and check the thing. In the workshop diagrams seems to be that that shaft is an independent piece coupled to the real primary shaft by some mechanism, so maybe is intended to be that way or the damage should be minor. Anyway the bushing in mine clearly is bad so I'm extracting it today too.
 
I Think bearing suppliers have a tolerance/acceptable amount of free play over x distance depending on the amount of bearings and space between. If that makes sense 😅

Think my input shaft had a little play as well. The clutch plate has springs and free floats. Im sure in the workshop manual it might have some data on the acceptable play.

I have a qd32, heavy duty clutch, garret turbo. Seems to be holding up with the new clutch and more boost
 
I Think bearing suppliers have a tolerance/acceptable amount of free play over x distance depending on the amount of bearings and space between. If that makes sense 😅

Think my input shaft had a little play as well. The clutch plate has springs and free floats. Im sure in the workshop manual it might have some data on the acceptable play.

I have a qd32, heavy duty clutch, garret turbo. Seems to be holding up with the new clutch and more boost

Hello. The workshop manual says absolutely nothing at all about that, sadly. I checked everywhere, but at least hearing about other gearboxes with some play and no issues is good. Thanks.
 

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