ZD30 D22 hard to start

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Good solution to know about if I ever have this problem, seems like a bloody cheap fix for all the issues people have been getting
 
Good solution to know about if I ever have this problem, seems like a bloody cheap fix for all the issues people have been getting
had a mate that had random no starts in one of his cars. spend thousands on mechanics etc who replace ecu ignites etc. i tracked it down to the ecu relay, which he had a spare. so the actual fix cost him nothing!
 
Hey guys so os that what has fixed
Your problem the starter relay or
Sarter
Itself? My ute is
Doing the exact same thing.
Chenged fuel filter and primer
Changed
Glow plugs
Done crank sensor
Checked for air being sucked in (none)
But did find that the injector pump is only getting 10v on crank.
So basicly the mechanic said that its not geting enough voltage to start the ute but he doesn't know what's causing it to only get 10v
 
Hey guys so os that what has fixed
Your problem the starter relay or
Sarter
Itself? My ute is
Doing the exact same thing.
Chenged fuel filter and primer
Changed
Glow plugs
Done crank sensor
Checked for air being sucked in (none)
But did find that the injector pump is only getting 10v on crank.
So basicly the mechanic said that its not geting enough voltage to start the ute but he doesn't know what's causing it to only get 10v

Hi Aaron
I have noticed if i have low voltage in battery it can be a real shit too start, i think your mechanic is on the right track of voltage drop,

I put a brand new battery in and not a problem, but what made me notice it was...i had the Engel going 1 night and went to start vehicle next morning once again real bitch to start.

But once battery came back up to voltage voila not a problem and havn't had the problem since unless i pull the battery that little bit too low.
 
Hey guys I know it's a pretty old post but I've have the same problem changed the crank position sensor and was still there.. I checked all earths and found the earth that is behind the battery was dirty and loose was the problem and why it would be the position sensor code is because this is the earth for that. I noticed that someone said after they cleaned the engine bay it was fine mine was the same water making it earth the 2 until it dries. Hope everyone gets it sorted
 
Hey guys I know it's a pretty old post but I've have the same problem changed the crank position sensor and was still there.. I checked all earths and found the earth that is behind the battery was dirty and loose was the problem and why it would be the position sensor code is because this is the earth for that.

the crank sensor seams to have issues with electrical noise. the bad connection was probably causing electrical noise which screws up the sensor signal, making the ecu think its faulty.
 
I seem to have the same problem as everyone else here. Won't start with out me putting my foot on the accelerator and the rpm needle goes crazy. I replaced the battery and cleaned the earths (I think I got them all unsure tho) anyone found a fix yet? Or a relay from the battery to the starter solenoid does the trick?
 
Hi guy's

bit more of an update, mine has started doing this again and if memory serves me correct i think it WAS the glow plug fuse, need to check mine tomorrow as this has only happened since it went in to diagnose overheating issue.

What they did was pressurize the engine overnight looking for leak down and signs of water on glow plugs of which there was none, but since they have done it, it's a real bitch to start again and shuts down with a SHUDDER real ROUGH.
 
Hi guy's :dance3: issue fixed!

what it was, is when it went in to have head diagnosed they had to remove the glow plugs, well when the mechanic put them back in he slid the seals over the glow plugs and just tightened the seals down,

hence the glow pluges still had about another 15mm to be tightened down to seal.

Now once i checked and fixed his F!@#K up it now starts like a dream again and shuts down smoothly, hope this works for you guy's :rock:
 
Hi guy's :dance3: issue fixed!

what it was, is when it went in to have head diagnosed they had to remove the glow plugs, well when the mechanic put them back in he slid the seals over the glow plugs and just tightened the seals down,

hence the glow pluges still had about another 15mm to be tightened down to seal.

Now once i checked and fixed his F!@#K up it now starts like a dream again and shuts down smoothly, hope this works for you guy's :rock:

You have got to be joking, some mechanics eh...sooo did you send him the bill for time and parts trying to find and fix HIS **** up ... take them to vcat or the civil courts, I'm sick of being ****ed over by shitty mechanics..
I got my money back from one smart arse diesel mechanic, the whole $1700... it's worth your time to bring these muts to question, it helps the next bloke too...

Wow, glad ya got it fixed! I'm searching for answers also regarding cps code.. so far about $1000 in parts and still no start, but the labour is my time.. sooo probably saved over $3000 in labour going by nissan and mechanic's prices..
How's the bloke being charged $600 to replace the cps! Ffs what swines! i picked up a genuine nissan cps from Dubia for $70 , sure i had to pull the radiator and fan blade to get to it but still only an hour to an hour and a halfs work...

How's everyone else going with this issue?
 
2005 navara str zd30ddt.

Yeah I think have the same problems. Hard to start, tacho flying all over the place, engine light on goes off after starting couple of times (warming up) till today which stayed on. I've changed glow plugs (online auto parts) new battery 810cca. Got lots of codes at first: 0407, 0208, 0403, 0905. I cleaned the map sensor (after cleaning binocular when I had it off doing glow plugs) was dirty so clean other sensor before air cleaner as well. Used spray for the egr etc thinking it was clogged and ran better. Fuel filter oil and filter air filter all changed same time. Took the big 9in kings off and put standard spotties on again as I think they were making the overheat code and drawing alot of power when load testing for the battery swap.

So only one code left 0407 crank pos sensor. I have ordered a new one then started reading threads and am having doubts now. It's hard to start have to try multiple times glowing and have heat button turned on, engine light is staying on tacho flying all over the place. After 5 or 6 starts it is like normal except for today even if I cleared code it would stay on next start up. So ute is parked until I can figure it out. So any help would be appreciated. Will check earths glow relay fuses etc in the morning.
 
And I forgot to say I changed the glow plugs because it was hard to start (no codes) if I didn't drive it much (couple of days or colder morning struggled to turn over but would start still) and then I changed the battery thinking old one no good low {only low in fluid}. Then it started throwing codes after that. Which let to the rest of the post.
 
Hey mate,

I recall someone having similar issues and vaguely recall replacing the starter motor sorted it out. I'm sure whoever fixed the issue will be along to comment also.
 
Yeah mate, that sounds familiar! I found that I was cranking for ages at times before it would go but once running no problems. The tacho bouncing up and down and crank angle sensor fault were my issue too. Turned out the dodgy started motor (still cranking hard and fast) was causing electrical interference to throw the fault. I had never noticed before the new starter that the tacho is normally stationary while cranking.
If the car is playing up after it has started then the CAS may be at fault. There is a thread on here about changing the starter but basically the easiest way is to take the front wheel off and go in through the guard. Hope this helps bud
 
Thanks guys. bods and boogieboots

Yes it was the starter motor full of old oil from when I had a injector seal leak (I think). Pulled it out, pull it apart and gave it a decent clean. Works better than it ever had before. 2 crank (so much faster now) and she fires up with no more codes. And the other prob was a vacuum hose had a small crack on the swirl mod so replaced hose. So all fixed and now have to try and return get money back for the crank angle sensor I ordered that's not needed LOL. Should be fun.
 
Hey guys, sorry to fire up this old thread but would love to get everyones ideas on what is going on with my 2003 D22 ZD30. Like alot of people here I am having issues with starting. Recently it has become a longer and longer crank (with tacho flying around) before starting and now only starts with my foot on accelerator. The car is running perfectly fine once started.
A couple months ago the engine light came on while driving and I drained the filter thinking I had filled up with some dodgy fuel (making sure I primed after draining). After draining the filter the light stayed off for a while. A month ago the light came on and once again I drained the filter but this time it made no change. Shortly after this I began developing the long crank issue and the engine light would start flashing when i turned the ignitoin on. I changed the fuel filter (as I bought ute 2 years back and not sure when had been changed last) and noticed air was getting into inlet of fuel filter so changed clamps for inlet and outlet from fuel filter. After this I could not start the ute and it was towed to the mechanic who threw air down the fuel tank (to bleed lines) and sprayed abit fo start ya bastard into the air intake to fire her back up. However, the issue wasnt fixed and still cranks for an extended period. AFter reading this thread and a few others, I cleaned all the earths and fit a new earth from battery negative to block and after I did this it started straight up with no engine light. However the next morning the engine light came back on when starting despite it starting up after only 3-5 cranks. I have ordered a new starter and will look to fit sometime next week. I have also noticed there is a heap of oil on the current starter (from an oil leak somewhere). The car also starts up fine when push started (dont know if that means anything). As of today the engine is still cranking alot and only starts with accelerator pushed in. The codes it is throwing out are 301, 407 and 703 (did also throw out 705 before trip to mechanic but that seems to have cleared). Would love to hear peoples suggestions. This thread is one of the most useful things Ive ever come across!! Really hoping its not my fuel pump :/
 

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