How to Stretch life of an old D40

Far better with sliders that mount to the chassis if you're going to take on tougher more "technical" tracks, much stronger.

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Sorry guys, I meant Sliders. Yeah I have the stock side steps and its hit a few ruts in the past. I have not taken the Nav up any steep technical tracks in the high country yet as my trips have been solo so wanted to play safe. Even some graded tracks are impassable when slightly wet. Theres just too much mud and wet clay.

Ive only got the stock sidesteps on the d40 but they've saved a few dents .

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I use to be precious about them, not anymore.

I had a service done at 130K and now at 135K the oil looks pitch black. Is that a concern? Did Nissan forget to change the oil?

I was already reading up on cleaning the MAF sensor. I don't think Nissan service clean these things, so I might clean it and save myself future headaches.

your sliders will only save your sills from scrapes. any solid hit will damage the sills anyway, as they are bolted to the sills. Sliders are the only way to protect your sills.
Don't worry about the oil, it goes black straight away. Doesn't help when it mixes with the residual black oil.
Mafs rarely get dirty if you change your filter regularly, unless you use an oiled foam filter!

ericcs said:

your sliders will only save your sills from scrapes. any solid hit will damage the sills anyway, as they are bolted to the sills. Sliders are the only way to protect your sills.

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Will I need sliders for the Cape?

Don't worry about the oil, it goes black straight away. Doesn't help when it mixes with the residual black oil.

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Pheww.. Glad to know. It just doesn't look really good. I'm thinking of changing the oil myself in between services, but does it need a new oil filter as it looks really difficult to get to? ie. is there a point in changing the oil without changing the oil filter?

Mafs rarely get dirty if you change your filter regularly, unless you use an oiled foam filter!

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My filter has been changed as per the schedule. I've got some 100% isoprop alcohol that I can spray into it. I suppose it can't hurt to clean it now that its had 130K under its belt.

You can clean the MAFS with electrical contact cleaner (which is also sold at Supercheap as "MAFS Cleaner" ). Never allow anything solid into the little slot at the bottom, it will destroy the MAFS and Nissan want $400 for a new one (go see a wrecker for one, if yours breaks).

The oil goes black quickly because of residual oil in the crankcase/galleys but also because of the amount of blow-by that introduces diesel soot into the crankcase oil. The oil is still doing its job.

D40-4Life said:

Will I need sliders for the Cape?



Pheww.. Glad to know. It just doesn't look really good. I'm thinking of changing the oil myself in between services, but does it need a new oil filter as it looks really difficult to get to? ie. is there a point in changing the oil without changing the oil filter?



My filter has been changed as per the schedule. I've got some 100% isoprop alcohol that I can spray into it. I suppose it can't hurt to clean it now that its had 130K under its belt.

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As Tony said, electrical contact cleaner is the go, look at it, clean it, just don't touch it!
For piece of mind, i change the oil and filter every 10k!

Thanks Gents.

Is it worth getting the intercooler cleaned out? Particularly for navs that didn't have a catch can or a EGR delete from the word go?

sure, but take the pipes of each side as well while your at it, and if your adventurous, the throttle body and inlet manifold!

ericcs said:

and if your adventurous, the throttle body and inlet manifold!

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Yeah, thoses are probably caked in Carbon.

D40-4Life said:

Is it worth getting the intercooler cleaned out?

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Really not a hard job to tackle yourself if you have a spare hour.

Plenty of times @Old.Tony has written up a full description on how to clean the intercooler.

Simply-
Remove intercooler from car
Cover one hole with hand
Pour some unleaded petrol in the other hole
Cover second hole and turn 'cooler around getting ULP all around inside the cooler
After most turns you'll need to remove your upper hand to release pressure
Repeat until ULP leaves the cooler the same way it went in
Let air dry and ULP evaporate
Reinstall

If your intercooler is gunky, full of bugs and looking sad, theres brand new genuine ones on ebay for less than $300

I put a brand spanker in my STX after the crash repairers put in a shitty old second hand one from a wreckers. I was not happy

For 290 bucks its a no brainer, especially as picking the bug guts out and cleaning and flushing an old one takes hours

The genuine ones are already fairly large and made in europe so i could see no need to put in an aftermarket

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/221416180615

Is the Pathfinder intercooler, the same as the D40? Is the Behr one, oem for the Spanish or both spanish and thai builds out of curiosity?

Sound cheaper to replace the whole intercooler than it is to clean it out especially if there is stuff embedded on the outside.

I thought the R51 and D40 shared the same intercooler, they're mostly the same up front. Always worth checking part numbers just to be sure.

Bug guts in the intercooler? That could happen if your air filter was AWOL. I'd be quite worried about the turbocharger impeller too, if that were the case!

I wonder if fireflies improve combustion ....

Ha fireflies gotta be better than sandflies..

Just to clarify, i mean bug guts stuck on the fins on the outside of the cooler, not actually inside the airflow zone.

It can be a right prick to get an ageing intercooler properly clean again

here in sa in summer the bugs seem to be made of superglue and asbestos fibres, sticky and impossible to budge

Guys
Whats the difference between a EGR delete and putting a blocking plate in?

Isn't it achieving the same thing with one being less obvious (blocking plate) than the other?

With 130K on the clock, is there any point in choosing one over the other?
Reading YD25.com's website it says that the EGR delete will reduce the risk of coolant leaking into the exhaust where as I'm guessing blocking it is still going to allow for that risk.

I've blocked mine on my D22 in 3 places... I have the EGR jet tube delete plate from yd25 and have blocked both ends of the EGR tube with stainless plates. That way if the EGR cooler let's go, the coolant won't escape and removing the jet tube removes the intake manifold restriction....

The beauty of the blanking plate, is, it's discreet. very hard to pick in the event of warranty work, roadworthy or roadside transport inspections. it's an emissions component, so removing it is illegal(same as blocking it) but more obvious!

bods said:

I've blocked mine on my D22 in 3 places... I have the EGR jet tube delete plate from yd25 and have blocked both ends of the EGR tube with stainless plates. That way if the EGR cooler let's go, the coolant won't escape and removing the jet tube removes the intake manifold restriction....

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Oh, so if you block both ends, then its the same as an EGR delete? No coolant leak issues?

That sounds like the way to go.

ericcs said:

or roadside transport inspections. it's an emissions component,

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Are the transport guys or even the police good enough to spot an EGR delete?

I suppose if it become common enough, they'll look.

Old.Tony said:

I thought the R51 and D40 shared the same intercooler, they're mostly the same up front. Always worth checking part numbers just to be sure.

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OK, I checked with the Seller. There appears to be a difference.

And he confirms that it is genuine Behr Hella. So OEM.

D40-4Life said:

Oh, so if you block both ends, then its the same as an EGR delete? No coolant leak issues?

That sounds like the way to go.



Are the transport guys or even the police good enough to spot an EGR delete?

I suppose if it become common enough, they'll look.

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Yeah you can block the cooler at both ends if you want and then if it fails internally it will be contained inside the chamber. You will probably get a bit of soot from the inside of it but it won't get into either the inlet or exhaust...

Bloody hell the ebay seller has jacked the price up of the intercoolers by 100 bucks since my post 3 days ago

It appears to be as a result of the communications exchange occuring from this thread...