D40 stalling, ? fuel pump
- Thread starter gbu
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blue boy
Member
had the same sort of problem after the car stalls and ya try and start it again straight away. like its starved of fuel. starts fine than as soon as you put the accelerator down its real doe'y.
i found if ya leave the ignition on accesories a little longer than normal it goes fine not sure if the pump has trouble priming itself or not.
i found if ya leave the ignition on accesories a little longer than normal it goes fine not sure if the pump has trouble priming itself or not.
plenty on www.nissan-navara.net the uk sister site to here,d40s and limp home very common on there,could be a valve on back pump,something on the fuel rail or even stretched cam chain,good luck hope its something silly/cheap for you!
Bluenavara
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Start with both the fuel filters (one's actually a water separator) first. Then check for air getting into the fuel system, or a kink or leak in the suctionline.
3rd: clean maf sensor.
4th, as mentioned above, look into the suction control valve on the injection pump.
The D40 has no lift pump, the injection pump sucks the fuel out of the tank through both fuel filters, all the way from the engine bay.
3rd: clean maf sensor.
4th, as mentioned above, look into the suction control valve on the injection pump.
The D40 has no lift pump, the injection pump sucks the fuel out of the tank through both fuel filters, all the way from the engine bay.
Thanks everyone. Wasn't aware there was no lift pump! Hmm. Yesterday it stalled at idle in the driveway and wouldn't restart. Then did something similar in a carpark when I restarted it about half an hour later. Confusing. I hope it's not expensive too Jace3. 
Really hope its just air somewhere.
Really hope its just air somewhere.
JPMC
Member
It will be the suction control valve causing this problem.
Not sure about Aussie pricing but in NZ it'll cost you $500 and take about half an hour of your time to fit.
Not sure about Aussie pricing but in NZ it'll cost you $500 and take about half an hour of your time to fit.
Don't spend a cent on it yet.
Loosen the fuel cap right off.
If the symptoms go away, it's the suction control valve. Has happened to quite a few cars, mine included.
Loosen the fuel cap right off.
If the symptoms go away, it's the suction control valve. Has happened to quite a few cars, mine included.
That means it's possibly NOT the suction control valve.
Things to check now:
* Air filter. Remove it and inspect it. If it's discoloured, try another one.
* MAFS. It's the sensor just outside the airbox in the rear of the hose. Remove it, spray some electrical contact cleaner into it, reinstall it.
* Stuck EGR valve. Blocking the EGR will not harm the engine and might relieve the symptoms. Remove the gasket on the inlet manifold side, make a copy of it in stainless steel without the big hold in the middle and put the copy in its place.
* Fuel line leaks. Try squeezing the primer bulb. It shouldn't take more than 5-6 squeezes before it's quite firm. If not, there's a possible leak on the suction side of the pump. Make sure hose clamps are on firmly but not overtight (they can pinch the hose causing the leak!). If the fuel filter has been replaced recently, immediately suspect the seal, it's a common cause.
They're the easy and cheap ones. Then it's on to the fuel filter.
* Replace the fuel filter
* Remove and test the glow plugs. Replace as necessary
* Check the output of the fuel rail pressure sensor. If this is reading too high, the ECU will reduce the fuel rail pressure and that could cause the engine to stall.
There may be a couple more things to look at, but that's a start.
Things to check now:
* Air filter. Remove it and inspect it. If it's discoloured, try another one.
* MAFS. It's the sensor just outside the airbox in the rear of the hose. Remove it, spray some electrical contact cleaner into it, reinstall it.
* Stuck EGR valve. Blocking the EGR will not harm the engine and might relieve the symptoms. Remove the gasket on the inlet manifold side, make a copy of it in stainless steel without the big hold in the middle and put the copy in its place.
* Fuel line leaks. Try squeezing the primer bulb. It shouldn't take more than 5-6 squeezes before it's quite firm. If not, there's a possible leak on the suction side of the pump. Make sure hose clamps are on firmly but not overtight (they can pinch the hose causing the leak!). If the fuel filter has been replaced recently, immediately suspect the seal, it's a common cause.
They're the easy and cheap ones. Then it's on to the fuel filter.
* Replace the fuel filter
* Remove and test the glow plugs. Replace as necessary
* Check the output of the fuel rail pressure sensor. If this is reading too high, the ECU will reduce the fuel rail pressure and that could cause the engine to stall.
There may be a couple more things to look at, but that's a start.
If it's a minor drop it might eventually do that, but in the short term you'd experience two things: erratic idle, and an apparent mild loss of power.
ourd40
Member
Since installing my 2nd filter mine has started to stall only on idle after about 20 sec from starting. Sometimes i can restart and sometimes i have to pop the bonnet and give it a few pumps and then its fine. Thinking ill have to remove the pre filter.
What about fitting a lift pump near the tank?
ourd40
Member
I have not looked into one, dont know how it would go down with nissan and warranty etc.
It runs fine, it only stalls the once on first start up like the fuel is draining back and it runs out or something.
It runs fine, it only stalls the once on first start up like the fuel is draining back and it runs out or something.
When you change a filter on these sometimes you have to reset the ECM so it will re learn pressures (resistance).
I copied the following from somewhere so it may be useful.
Ign on count to 3
Full on and off throttle 5 times within 5 sec's
Count to 7 hold throttle down for 10 or so seconds
Wait for the ECM light to flash, let go of throttle and count the flashes to get the fault codes or keep holding the throttle until you see the ECM pattern change to ten fast flashes and there you have one reset ECM.
I copied the following from somewhere so it may be useful.
Ign on count to 3
Full on and off throttle 5 times within 5 sec's
Count to 7 hold throttle down for 10 or so seconds
Wait for the ECM light to flash, let go of throttle and count the flashes to get the fault codes or keep holding the throttle until you see the ECM pattern change to ten fast flashes and there you have one reset ECM.
Hi Mate just thought IDE let u know I have a 08 d40 auto same problem check the fuel filter if it's after market throw it in the bin u can tell if it doesn't have Nissan stamped on it sumthin goes wrong with the little valve on it so it doesn't let fuel through Quik enough. When u start it cold what ever fuel was in the line the car starts on then when that runs dry it takes a little while for new fuel to get through... It cost me 150bucks for genuine one it's so simple to change over prime it by hand by the little hand primer underneath the filter might take a little while to start but then it's sweet problem solved... No more stalling or cutting out...
Saw the best one on my work truck the other week. It was like it was starving of fuel. Got it to the mechanics they changed a dirty fuel filter and truck went of for a while.....
Then same again when we got it back to the mechanic's the took off the fuel tank off and it was 1/4 full of bacteria sludge, and on throttle it would such sludge up into the pick up... Try some anti-bacterial diesel additive! It's more common than you think.
Then same again when we got it back to the mechanic's the took off the fuel tank off and it was 1/4 full of bacteria sludge, and on throttle it would such sludge up into the pick up... Try some anti-bacterial diesel additive! It's more common than you think.
Gave the old bus a dose or two fuel doctor. Seems to have evened things out, hasn't stalled since. Typing on a wooden desk for safety here, touching wood!! Reckon I must have got a gut load of water somewhere along the line. Will dose her up regularly with fuel doctor now I reckon.
S
Scout675
Guest
Hi Guys,
I have experienced the same problem.
The fuel line would lose charge overnight. It would require pumping the primer until full prime was achieved. It would run fine after that.
I tested the suction control valve by releasing the fuel cap prior to starting, this didn't work.
I then replaced the non genuine fuel filter with a genuine one. All good so far. Shame the genuine ones are $150. I not sure why the non genuine one caused this problem. Maybe a top quality non genuine one would have been OK.
I have experienced the same problem.
The fuel line would lose charge overnight. It would require pumping the primer until full prime was achieved. It would run fine after that.
I tested the suction control valve by releasing the fuel cap prior to starting, this didn't work.
I then replaced the non genuine fuel filter with a genuine one. All good so far. Shame the genuine ones are $150. I not sure why the non genuine one caused this problem. Maybe a top quality non genuine one would have been OK.
