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  #11  
Old 04-02-2019, 04:46 AM
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as above. position 4 I believe doesn't go through the resistor!
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2019, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechmate View Post
Was it new or from a wreckers?
Well it was new from eBay. Came in what appeared to be a genuine Nissan box with part number, unopened and looked brand spankers.

However, you can get the exact same boxed item from Alibaba for $26 (but you have to wait 30+days for delivery), so who knows if it's the real deal in all honesty.

Anyway, have ordered another already so I'll see how this goes. If it blows I'll take it into the auto-electrician's and be damned. What's another $500 on top of the small fortune that I've stupidly poured into this snot-heap?
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:49 PM
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Does the fan work on setting 4?
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:29 PM
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Does the fan work on setting 4?
Yes Sir. A/C light on with positions 1,2,3 but no blower. A/C light off in position 4 but blower works as per normal.
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Old 06-02-2019, 04:00 AM
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I don't remember my A/C light misbehaving like that but then again I only lost fan speed 1, speeds 2, 3 and 4 were still ok. If you have it on position 4, and you press the A/C button, does the A/C light come on?
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  #16  
Old 06-02-2019, 09:03 PM
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When I replaced the resistor the A/C worked perfectly again for one day. So it's definitely a resistor issue.

The A/C light is ON in positions 1,2,3, but NO blower active.

In position 4 the A/C light goes OFF but the blower kicks in again and works as per normal, without blowing cold air of course.
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:58 AM
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It may be a resistor issue, it may also be a ground issue, with the ground for the fan (which means the resistor as well) running through a different source - like the stereo - which overloads the resistors by reverse feeding a ground through the circuit. Since there's no resistor in position 4, that one should always work.


So, specific questions:


1) If you put the fan speed dial to position 4, what happens if you press the A/C button?


2) Have you changed head unit or done any other work on the dash recently (including airbag diagnostic module, body control module) ?


My concern is that you've already replaced the resistor pack and it's blown again, which indicates that it's not a resistor pack fault, but the fault is causing the resistor pack to overload.


It would be VERY interesting to put a 100A ammeter in there, turn on IGN, set fan speed to 1 and measure the current through the appropriate resistor. To measure this, you need to identify the incoming power line and the output line for each resistor. It doesn't really matter if you get positions 1, 2 or 3 mixed up. What you're looking for is a high current passing through the power feed pin to the output pin. When you connect the ammeter to these two pins, you SHOULD hear the fan run at full speed (since you're just measuring current, but letting it flow without resistance).


If you get a high current from that, try again but with the stereo turned off. If that reduces the current, get a cable and connect the body of the stereo to any one of the bolts that hold the dash to the metal bodywork. Try again - if the current drops, it's likely safe to replace the resistor.


I've never heard of this particular problem before, so I'm clutching at straws.
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2019, 11:12 PM
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In conclusion, this turned out to be a fan motor that was getting very sticky, thus taking way too much current to drive. These fan motors are not meant to be pulled apart but the mechanic who has done all of the work to date on the pigs-tit kindly disassembled it and greased it up.

Problem solved for now.

Thanks for the help, gurus!
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