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  #11  
Old 12-11-2018, 12:19 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but thought I would add some findings.

My 2010 d22 never did this from the factory, however I recently changed the ecu for one from a 2014 model (same part number but newer revision) and it now does it. I have tested this by holding the manual control lever on the brake controller on with no trailer connected (which brings on the brake lights) and there is a definite engine derate. As soon as the brake lights go off, power is back to normal.

Obviously something has been changed in the later models to bring this into effect.

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  #12  
Old 19-11-2018, 12:05 PM
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Could it be (odd as this may sound) that the brake light circuit is monitored by the ECU, so that if the brakes come on, the engine is treated similarly to being in neutral?
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  #13  
Old 20-11-2018, 12:30 AM
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I would say it is some sort of "feature" that stops you accelerating under full power when the brakes are applied.

It is a dirty word, but the new hiluxes are the same, except they have a warning message come up on the dash cluster screen warning that the accelerator and brake are being pressed together and cuts power completely. You can't rev the motor at all while both pedals are being pressed.

In the d22s at least, you can still accelerate, it is just a form of limp mode. The engine just revs up very slowly.

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  #14  
Old 20-11-2018, 12:34 AM
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I'm a complete novice when it comes to auto elecs, but I was told by a service manager at a dealer that Nissan re-mapped the ECU in the D22 in 2012.

The brake controller on my 2013 is wired up differently to the one on my old 2010 D22.

Exactly the same brake controller on both of mine & the same guy installed them both:

On this one, the brake controller only fires up once the engine is running.

On the old one, the brake controller used to fire up as soon as the key was turned on at the ignition.

He tried wiring the new one up the way that the old one was wired & it threw a CEL, so he changed it.

Like I said, I'm electronically challenged, so I have no idea on the specifics. But it may pay to get someone who installs them everyday to have a look at it.

Good luck with it!
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  #15  
Old 20-11-2018, 01:08 AM
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I'm not really sure what you're getting at. I only mentioned noticing the power loss with activating the manual switch on the brake controller to eliminate pressing the brake pedal hard enough to activate the vehicle brakes.

My brake controller works fine, I can't understand how you would have any issues wiring them up, they generally only have 4 wires...

Anyway, I was just adding to this thread that the later model d22s also have this "feature" (if you'd call it that) of reducing power output when the brake lights are on.

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  #16  
Old 20-11-2018, 02:09 AM
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"Anyway, I was just adding to this thread that the later model d22s also have this "feature" (if you'd call it that) of reducing power output when the brake lights are on."

My 2013 doesn't do that. It never has from new.
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  #17  
Old 20-11-2018, 07:49 AM
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Fair enough, but if you read the earlier posts, I said I fitted an ecu from a 2014 model...

It never did it with my factory 2010 ecu either, which I tried with the brake controller fitted before changing the ecu.

I should also add, my original ecu has a part number 23710-vn37a

The new one I fitted has a part number 23710-vn57a

So obviously something has changed. If your 2013 doesn't do it, maybe it was brought in for the 2014 model?

Last edited by bods; 20-11-2018 at 08:28 AM.
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  #18  
Old 24-11-2018, 06:42 PM
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I had this problem today. I'm very electronically challenged but when I got back in the car at the the servo after fuelling up I noticed that the LED screen on my brake controller was displaying 51. Usually it is blank when the brake is not applied. Anyway didn't think anything of it.

I pulled out of the servo and I couldn't get over 60km/h. I yelled and cursed and looked for an engine light but nothing. Didn't help that i was running late for an important meeting and had about an hour and a half drive to get there. Still didn't connect the brake controller to this issue so drive a few km's home to change cars.

Anyway while pulling gear out of the 2014 D40 and placing it into the ever faithful Ford Courier I noticed the brake lights were still on. It was then it clicked. I had a look at the brake controller and wiggled the wires going into the rear of it. The LED display flashed back to 00 then blank. I fired up the rig and had full power again.

Can high temps effect electronics. It was 38 here today with the next 7 days straight to have a maximums between 42 to 37 degrees.

I think since the controller came on the vehicle when i purchased it and I only have an un-braked camper trailer I might remove it all together to stop the problem.

Thoughts?
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  #19  
Old 24-11-2018, 07:50 PM
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You could remove it if you wanted to. If you want to leave it there just in case, you can just unplug the wiring loom from the back and tuck it away somewhere.

High temps could affect them I guess. With electronics anything is possible...
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