Install Redarc Towpro Navara D40

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True there is no "real" need with one source of power, in a duel setup it's a must. I did wire my brakes with a thermal breaker at the battery, and a maxi fuse at the rear. Just personal choice, and a few extra minutes work.
Pointless having a fuse and a breaker. If you have a short the breaker will trip and power will be cut off. The fuse just adds another point of failure with the joins required to fit it and won't actually serve any purpose with a breaker near the battery.
 
I've got a 12-pin plug on my car and van and there ARE unused pins in the 5-pin side.

The trouble with wiring it up differently to "normal" is that trying to use someone else's trailer means either a custom adapter or a rewiring job. I hate borrowing some trailers because the owners custom-wire their plugs then expect my to tow their car somewhere with it so they can get the car fixed. You know how it goes. Pin 4 exchanged with pin 5 so whenever you indicate to the right, the trailer brakes come on, and when you press the brake, the right indicator comes on ...

If you want to do it differently, make is so that you cover YOUR trailer in a standard way and supply the power through a connection in a more effective way as well. It's as easy as sharing the path - two wires connected from point A to point B will share the power passing from one point to the other.

Easy to do. Leave the 12-pin plug in its standard setup. Cut the wire for pin 5 about 100mm back from the plug on both sides. Also cut pin 3 on both sides (which is your earth). Grab some (about 300-400mm) heavy gauge cable (say that 6mm stuff if you're happy with it) and cut it in half. Now in that middle cut, install an Anderson plug.

On one end of the cable, introduce the black lead to the pin 3 cut on the trailer (so there will be 3 wires going into the joiner). Do the same with the red cable of your heavy gauge wire on pin 5. Repeat this for the other end of the cable on the car.

I've just drawn a simple diagram showing what I'm trying to talk about. Hope that makes it clearer! If you do this, most of the power won't pass through the trailer plug, it will follow the heavy cable (path of least resistance).
 

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Pointless having a fuse and a breaker. If you have a short the breaker will trip and power will be cut off. The fuse just adds another point of failure with the joins required to fit it and won't actually serve any purpose with a breaker near the battery.
I've had breakers fail before, hence why in this situation there is a fuse in the circuit as well.
 
Thanks for all the additional info and ideas gents!
So the 15A pin is not a concern - happy with that (although the amp rating makes it counter-intuitive).
I agree with Old Tony that keeping to standard pin assignment is important. I don't want to orphan both my car and trailer for use with other trailers or cars. The Anderson plug idea for beefing up the service brake circuit is interesting but I think I'm in my happy-place now regarding points of failure. Thanks for the effort of drawing it up!
While I'm under the Nav routing the brake controller to pin 5 I've decided that I might as well wire through 5 extra cables and change to a 12 pin trailer socket too. I don't need it right away, but 4 weeks ago I didn't need a brake controller either so who knows what the future will bring.
Thanks again everyone, much appreciated!

Cheers
DG
 
I know this is a pretty old thread, but wondering where you mounted the Tow Pro Unit and Dial. I previously ran the extra wires when I was installing my reverse camera, I recently bought the camper trailer (and a Tow Pro), just looking for suggestions on mounting locations.

I was thinking somewhere behind the centre consol, (which I've pulled apart on numerous occasions), but seeking ideas first.
 

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