HELP: Is there anyway to clear ALL the fault codes without dealer computer?

Long story short, I am stranded in South West Queensland after an emu strike. Engine looses power and its clear that the intercooler is damaged. I am sick of waiting on the insurance company to decide my fate so I am going to work with the local mechanics to get the car going again. I'll get them to order the intercooler and probably start pulling the old one out later today.

However, I would like to clear out all the fault codes just so we can confirm there is no other problems. Currently there is a number of codes, but I am sure some of them are old, some I cant locate in the manual.

P0571 - BPP Switch - found in manual
P0801 - Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit - generic code found on internet
P253F - Engine oil deteriorated (I wrote this down as P25F3)
P2600 - TC Cooling Pump failure - I can actually here the pump working

and cant find these codes:

C3AAF
C3824 or possibly C3A24.

I suspect the latter 2 are brake issues. The training manual says these codes are in the BCM section of the manual, but the BCM section is a supplement and has no codes at all. There was an issue with a shorted brake light switch at one point, and some of the brake codes may be historical.

I will head back to the local mechanic soon to confirm codes again and do some trouble shooting as well as to tell them to order the intercooler parts.

just get the mechanic to supply all receipts for this insurance claim plus take a couple of pics for proof. i would start getting this work done now rather than waite for the speedy assessor. clear the fault codes and see what comes up next time .

Given that OBDII has been on all Australian cars for over 10 years now it would be very rare to find a mechanic that didn't have a reader, or couldn't clear the codes for you. Any generic OBDII tool (less than $10 on eBay) coupled with an application such as Torque can also clear the codes. Beware of code descriptions that you look up on the internet, they will often not match the problem fault description found in the cars specific service manual. I have found this to be the case on a number of occasions.

I agree with jonney, go ahead and get your car driveable, but take lots of photos and give the insurance company the courtesy of a call first to let them know what you are doing. I am sure they wouldn't want you to be in any hardship whilst waiting for them to get of their arse.

^ 100%

Looks like insurance (RACQ) has come through and is going to tow the Car (not the van) to Charleville so the dealer there can do 'temporary mechanical repairs'. They still have not informed the RACQ mob that will do the tow though.

They guys at the local mechanic do have a OBD2 reader, but they were unable to clear out the old codes. Possible that they dont know how to work the unit properly. Looking at the manual it seems that the old codes might be retained anyway until certain conditions are met without fault.

Anyway, the local mechanics (also the local RACQ mob) have taken lots of photo's and sent them through to RACQ assessors, so its all documented. I have also taken photo's. Hopefully I will be on my way to the nissan dealer at charleville tomorrow, not holding my breath though.

It is still annoying though, you can hardly fix your own car on the road. I was really annoyed at first, wanted to get rid of the car but I doubt any other modern 4wd ute would be any better. I think its time to equip myself with a decent OBD2 diagnostic tool myself. I am in instrument fitter by trade so this stuff is right up my alley.

you should have fitted a good quality steel bullbar then all would be fine. if its not the intercooler it would be the radiator in most low mount 4 x 4 vehicles that gets hit .

Steel bullbars on d40s are on slides anyway, so that if you hit something they slide back to activate the airbags.
I hit a roo at 100k a while back and the genuine nissan steel bullbar slid back and busted the intercooler, the bonnet and the grille

I must check my bar. We copped a decent size roo with the bar just out of Cobar, knocked it down and it went under all 4 wheels on the right hand side (both car wheels and both caravan wheels). The only damage was to the mains pressure water inlet on the caravan and a bunch of blood.

But blood is something I've had to wash off before - from birds, of all things!

Anyway, my steel bar hasn't budged. I wonder if my airbags will go off in a collision now - no, I am not going to test it! I'll inspect the connection and see if it looks ok.

FWIW, even if the bar depressed 50mm my intercooler would be safe. There's plenty of room in there. The emu must have crashed through the grille to damage the intercooler and I've got driving lights in the way as well so I doubt it'd get to the intercooler.

So I guess it's another vote for a steel bar.

I have mixed feeling on bullbars. Been a while since I have been on the tools and driving out in this country but they never seemed to help unless you had one of those massive ones on the cruiser that were foot or more off the front of the vehicle. I have bent a few cars with bullbars over the years. Stick a big steel one on and you lose a good deal of payload too.

Anyway, finally got towed into Charleville. Car is at the nissan dealer. Had a few beers and a good feed at the local RSL and in a much better mood now.

All beside the point. Depending on the outcome with the damage, if I keep the Nav I will be on a mission to better understand the OBD v Consult and I will figure out how to fault find these cars a bit better.

the bull bar is only designed to protect your vehicle from Bulls. lol. you need to visit Old Man Emu if you want emu protection lol. sorry but i had to.