Suspension Upgrade?

Ok so I installed my Radflo's and would them down so its only about an inch n a half of lift.Now after the wheel alignment they are telling me that the camber wont come in any better. Bit hard to tell from pics but the top of the tyre is further out than the bottem so I think thats posative camber. Has anyone else who has installed a lift found anything like this. Am being told this is as good as they can do and this guy actually does race cars normally .
Am I missing something here?


Try to look at the angle of thwe front wheel compared to the rear.



As you can see the truck is just level not the front jacked into the clouds.

Have I got to lower it back down more to lessen tyre wear?

Have I got it wrong??????????????????????????:censor:

As far as I know there is only 1 adjustment point as far as the lower control arms and thats on the back part there is a concentric adjuster bold .

Left


Right


Now I aint no suspension guru but something is whacked here. Those adjusters are at almost full min not max. Now apart from Camber what else would be adjusted by these ?.
If I am not mistaken there is no Caster adjustment for our front end is there. Apart from these camber pics there is only toe in and toe out on the tie rods correct?

positive toe = / \ (from when looking above while sitting in drivers seat)
negative toe = \ /

positive camber = / \ (from when standing in front of the car and facing the bullbar)
negative camber = \ /

when i used to race cars you would want around 1 to 2 degrees toe out/negative toe which gives you faster steering response, while you'd want 1-3 degrees positive camber as it increases traction.

not too sure about 4wds like these tho, but fairly sure you dont want negative camber mate, makes it easier to roll over if you think about it.

I have would the adjusters down so there is only 12mm left and the camber looks almost 0 but might have to go lower .not sure yet

I know when i got the wheel alignment after fitting the 2" OME kit my wheel alignment guy said it was almost perfect however i believe there was a minute bit of negative "not enough to notice or worry about". This guy is also into 4wd's so i have no reason to doubt him. Havent noticed any change.

so what height do you have from ground to guard?
I am at 935mm at the moment .

maddogrc said:

when i used to race cars you would want around 1 to 2 degrees toe out/negative toe which gives you faster steering response, while you'd want 1-3 degrees positive camber as it increases traction.

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Toe out is good for race cars, but road cars always toe in slightly rather than out. As for camber, depends on the car, typically you will only see 0.5-1 degree of positive camber.

0,25 +/_ 0.5 is the factory spec so going to drop the front down again so I go from 1.0 pos to factory spec or 0.25

Might wanna look at 4x4 suspension arms.

Dave.

Suspension arms chassis etc all identical on 4x4 and 4x2 and so far its a 50/50 with different years models etc as to who gets the front concentrics. There are about 40 odd ( Im guessing ) Navara D40 owners in another forum so am going by the wider cross section we get in there .
Oh and just for the record its the chassis mount points that have the adjustment not the arms themselves

Peter70 said:

I know when i got the wheel alignment after fitting the 2" OME kit my wheel alignment guy said it was almost perfect however i believe there was a minute bit of negative "not enough to notice or worry about". This guy is also into 4wd's so i have no reason to doubt him. Havent noticed any change.

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Hi Peter,

What exactly did you get fitted with ur 2" OME kit? I am looking at this thru ARB and would like to know what you think.

Cheers, Todd

I am still working on getting my camber sorted . Have bought UCA from PRG but am having issues getting them made legal for use. Radflo's themselves are great .I have mine fitted with 500lb springs so it will be a soft rise and dive hard under braking to give me neg camber so it will turn in hard.
Just have to get the camber issues sorted and in those pics u see what is essentually caster adjustment as thats about all the rear concentrics do im told

mate did yu buy those radflos from PRG?

Yeah the truck is fully engineered with the PRG shocks and UCA

looks like the camber adjusters are fully pulled in. they should be 180 from where they are to push the bottom of the wheel out. I'd go elsewhere and get a wheel alignment

maddogrc said:

positive toe = / \ (from when looking above while sitting in drivers seat)
negative toe = \ /

positive camber = / \ (from when standing in front of the car and facing the bullbar)
negative camber = \ /

when i used to race cars you would want around 1 to 2 degrees toe out/negative toe which gives you faster steering response, while you'd want 1-3 degrees positive camber as it increases traction.

not too sure about 4wds like these tho, but fairly sure you dont want negative camber mate, makes it easier to roll over if you think about it.

Click to expand...

Just FYI,
Toe in/out you got right, but Camber is the other way. / \ is negative camber... and what you want a small amount of most of the time. Raising the car increases positive camber, and lowering increases negative camber (that's why you see the 'cool' dudes with cars scraping the ground and two bald strips on the inside of the rear tyres, and unworn outsides...).

Cheers,

herb89 said:

looks like the camber adjusters are fully pulled in. they should be 180 from where they are to push the bottom of the wheel out. I'd go elsewhere and get a wheel alignment

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If your talking about the pics they are caster adjustment , the truck didnt have any camber adjusters so I went with PRG UCA

yeah well looks like they need to be turned 180

they are not camber its caster so adjusting them wont help with camber. I ended up putting in new UCA thats are adjustable .So no more bush's or ball joints .

the current setup