Body lift in Queensland

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ljacko78

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g'day lads,

Just got Transport Dept to sign off on 2" body lift today (July 2011) so for the people in Qld who want to know the process, here's how:


1 - You are allowed a 2" suspension lift without approval
2 - You are allowed a 2" body lift with approved from Transport and Main Roads (the old QT), but you need to complete an Application to Modify Vehicle form.
Transport and Main Roads Corporate Forms F1854 - Motor Vehicle Modification Application
http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/c...8b20842f/pdf_modification_motor_vehicles2.pdf

3 - This form requires some basic info about your car (rego, tyres, model and year etc) and the mod you want (2" BL)
4 - don't include suspension on the form. TMR won't apporove this without engineering cert (which is a different process but I asked the inspectors and they said yeah can still do them in QLD if you want) and its not necessary if you're under 2" sus lift anyways
5 - include some info about the lift kit. Whether you'll make them yourself or get a kit like from Zordo, include info on the materials (e.g. Zordos is a poly block and using new high tensile bolts and nylock nuts)
6 - TMR repsond with a letter saying OK to install
7 - Keep this letter and take it to the Inspection
8 - Inspection costs about $65 and took me about 20 minutes to the inspection + them writing up paperwork
9 - Once signed off, keep a copy of the signed and stamped Mod Form in the car so if the po po's ask and qu's you can show them its certified.

So what did the inspectors look at? They do take the time to do a basic check of the vechile at the same time as looking at the Mods. Here's what they looked at on mine:

1 - steering column adjustments and making sure steering was responsive
2 - front and rear breaks and break lines
3 - handbreak test and handbreak line was loose enough
3 - lights and indicators
4 - checking the new body blocks (all of 5 secs - "is that them?" "yup" "OK then")
5 - tyres inside wheel arches
6 - mud flaps (more info below)
7 - muffler (mines a str8 thru) which they did mention but nothing else said
8 - tyres (had a good chat about muddies and wear rates)

All up reasonably simple checks. They do call you down the pit to look at things if need be. Blokes with me were fine to talk to.

I do have to fix a few things on mine:
- handbreak line is a little tight (even though it tested fine)
- the rear number plate must have lights on it
- mud flaps must extend down to max 300mm above the ground

I have a form to sign once these are fixed and send back in but I already have the Mod form signed off. Good to go! :rock:

I'll put some pics up soon. Now just need some $$ to fix rear step bar and sliders to match new body height.
 
pics of the tray mounts and front mounts....
 

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before and after shots....


and lastly, all the crap built up under the factory bash plant and round the steering arm when I changed the front diff oil. I was my ute all the time - just made the ute 20kg lighter

Hope these help a few people out
 

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Good info mate. This form you say you have to send in once things are fixed, is that cause they recorded the problems or something? I have always had good dealings with Queensland Transport inspectors, they seem like good enough blokes most of the time.
 
Fantastic info Luke! Love the "dead weight" photo, lol!!!!!!

Still one of those things I've been tossing up when I do the suspension, whether to do a body lift at the same time. I don't intend to go to a larger diameter tyre at this stage, (might bog the already slow V6 down a bit too much), though added clearance would still be achieved.

One extra fix that would be achieved with a body lift process is getting the rear tub lined up properley, still sits a centimetre closer to the cab on one side.
 
aaahhhh - now that 'other form' is actually a 'defects notice' cause of the 3 small points noted at the end. Out of everything they could have defected, they picked those 3? Anyways..... Apparently they don't need to see the changes made, just have me get it signed be a mechanic (next service) and post it back in.

cheers Ray - I'd do sus lift first. Benefit of better ride and slightly higher pumpkins IMO. Then if you want more height for approach and departure angle, go BL.
 
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very nice thread mate and interesting info.

just a quick question and i have yet to see someone do it and thats just a simple 25mm(1") bodylift. anyone know of someone that does them and what the costs are? i will install myself but i just want the kit.

cheers
Rusty
 
aaahhhh - now that 'other form' is actually a 'defects notice' cause of the 3 small points noted at the end. Out of everything they could have defected, they picked those 3? Anyways..... Apparently they don't need to see the changes made, just have me get it signed be a mechanic (next service) and post it back in.

cheers Ray - I'd do sus lift first. Benefit of better ride and slightly higher pumpkins IMO. Then if you want more height for approach and departure angle, go BL.

Fair enough, was curious if a defect notice or just a form type thing. So what is the go with defects, got a certain time to fix them or what?

Mitch
 
I have about 3 weeks to send the forms back for the defect notice. For me, the stuff to fix is pretty frickin simple... they will all have dates on them, but I reckon you call them up if you can't make date and arrange for new time if need be.

Mine - no worries on getting those things fixed in the time alotted.
 
+1 Jason's post

25mm or 50mm - it will require cert from TMR. So might as well go the 50mm kit to be legal
 
ok here goes. another bodylifting question. alrite i am going to put my forms in for a 25mm bodylift which i have waiting fro me to pay for and get posted from a 4wd mob. no im having troubles with the stupid form for motor vehicle mod applications.

do they really need all the info ie, unladen mass, RGCM, RGVM, ADR Rule Number etc? i cant find any of this info on my car etc. where can i find it all?i have everything else down pat except those last 4 lil things.

cheers
Rusty
 
Rusty - no you don't need to include that info. Rego, number plate, VIN, your contact info etc and the modifications you want to put on your ute is sufficient.
 
oh sweet. stupid form lol. well ive filled out as much as i can so its gonna have to do. send it in tomoz and wait to hear from them.
 
so then, body lift is on and new factory steel bullbar is on, but what to do with the 2" gap???

Didn't find found anything on the forum for raising steel bars on D22's. Saw this thread a while back and but no directions:
http://www.navara.asia/d22-body-chassis/8019-bullbar-after-body-lift.html

So, in having a really good think about it while under the ute this morning, come up with what turned out to be really quite a simple job.....

Pic 00 - factory alloy bar and 2"gap

Pic 01 - the braces to the chassis remain as is, though the bottom hole (yellow) is re-drilled up 2". Do this while still on the chassis IMO

Pic 02 - the bullbar has 2 bolts that connect the bar to the chassis mounts. The top hole is moved 2" down.

Pic 11 - check everything is level and gaps are even. Some primers on the bare steel and locktite on the bolts (factory bolts frickin hard to get off)

Pic 12 - stand back and admire (or put the UHF aerial and spotties back on)

Finally, grab a beer and admire the work! Total of 4 new holes. Can add some flat steel behind new holes if you feel the need. Also, if you do this way, then the factory bash plate won't fit anymore

For me, some new Narva 225s coming soon and old spotties going on sports bar at back. Also going to drill and mount some front recovery hooks to the bar as well.

hope that helps someone
 

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aye bud did u do the lift yourself? i want todo mine and im looking for info on how to and whats involved and what needs extended etc.. cheers
Dave
 

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