Super maintenance time on the Nav

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MattWij

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The Nav has been flogged pretty hard in the last 4 months doing a 11,000KM trip, doing several days of towing other cars long distance on trailers, spending several days in -7 degrees and various other 1000K+ trips. All its seen is basic Oil+ Filter changes and now there is a pile of maintenance issues....

Fuel leak, speakers stopped working, turbo pipe leak, exhaust hitting the cab, front bearings are gone, brakes are terrible, suspected diff problems, tonneau cover rails broken off, drivers window gets stuck, battery system issues.... :frown:
UGHH, anyway, I figured I should get started on the 3 biggens and work my way down.

* I suspect the front bearings are about shot as I get whirring noises from the front which gets worse on cornering.
Are the front bearings a terribly difficult job? I am on a bit of a budget so I'm looking at just getting a left and right set from ebay for cheap. Should that be OK? I have all the tools breaker bar etc.

* I never thought about it until recently, I suspect the Limited slip diff has not worked for the entire time I have had the car. When I first got the car it was a freaking death trap as it was incredibly easy to get one wheel peel and go sideways. At the time I put it down to shitty tyres, but the car still does it even with decent BFG A/T KO2's
I also have been stuck with just one wheel spinning in the mud and the other stationary. I'm assuming the LSD should kick on in that type of scenario? I had not lifted a wheel so I'm assuming that should have allowed for clutch action?
How can I check if my LSD is working correctly? Did all D40's come with LSDs?
If it turns out the thing is buggered, am I better of repairing it and sticking with the LSD or putting in an auto lokka? Air/E-Lockers are out of the question in terms of budget, even longer term that money needs to go elsewhere.

* The brakes on my Nav are STUFFED. But The brake master cylinder is new, all new fluid, all new braided steel brake lines etc but braking performance is still woeful. The car doesn't even carry weight so they are not under excessive stress. My 26 year old Pajero has superior stopping power and great pedal feel even with green goo for brake fluid and about 10 years of neglect.
Are there any bolt on improvements I can make to the braking system? I bought new slotted discs a while ago but they didn't fit, I never got to getting the right ones as I don't know if it will make any difference. Once the rear drums get wet the car becomes downright dangerous.

Any help and advice appreciated, I'd like to do as much of this work myself as the bank account is still seething over my travel expenses from earlier this year.
 
certainly sounds like the old girl has had a hard life. withthe front wheel bearing replacement you may need a special tool that is used to help tighten up the bearings to there correct torques, this tool is cheap to buy on ebay plus you should also have a torque wrench so these canbe tensioned to correct specs.
buy good quality brake pads and a good set of rotors and maybe its time to recon the caliper pistons so you know the brakes will work perfectly.
you LSD should work al the time , maybe drain out the old diff oil and re fill with correct lsd oil.
 
Cheers Jonney, I'll look at the diff Oil and do the brake pads this weekend. I already have a torque wrench so that should be no issue. I'll probably do the bearings next weekend.

Any recommendations on brake pads? Or just getting good ones at repco will be fine?
 
Brake pads

You get what you pay for with brake pads.
D40s, especially autos are notoriously harsh on front brakes.
I put a set of DBA slotted heavy duty rotors and bendix pads onto an 07 stx d40 a couple years ago.
The DBA rotors are brilliant but bendix pads are too hard and cheaply made. They bite well at first touch because of the hardness, but after that you have to really stand on the pedal to get any more brake action. Also they rip rotors to shreds being so hard.
After a few months I changed the pads to Nissan genuine.
So much better.
The bendix pads crumbled a bit and bits fell off when I pulled them out.
Suspect bendix put all their effort into advertising and marketing these days, then just pump em out in China and Malaysia.
The local parts shop guy told me they don't make anything in Bendigo anymore.
When these brakes die I'm going with a set of EBC greenstuff pads made in the UK, and another set of DBA Survival Series 4000 T3 slotted. DBA part no. 42312S. (that's to suit D40s with 16 inch rims and the smaller brakes)
 
I got some DBA 23110S Discs in the hopes they would help, but they didn't fit. kinda gun shy about buying another set that I cant return. But the premium on buying them in a bricks and mortar store is pretty big last time I looked.

Also... if anyone is after a brand new set of 23110S Discs....
 
Go to supercheap for DBA

Thing with buying parts in a bricks and mortar is that if a part doesn't fit you can swap it for one that does...
I'm all for eBay but unless you're 1000% certain the parts going to fit and work properly you're cruising for a shelf full of shite you can't use
 
Well I got ebay bearings... they arrived yesterday and appear to be correct. I'll likely be fitting them this Sunday, I'm guessing the bearings should be like a 4 hour job??

On sunday I'll also get to the turbo leak and fix some wiring issues hopefully. I'l buy some decent brake pads and fit them at the same time as doing the bearings. I'll see if I can rope in a freind to deal with the Diff Oil while I work on the bearings...

I'll probably just use whatever repco/supercheap say, but any recommendations for the Diff Oil? I know that you need special LSD stuff. Maby I should go the cheapest stuff until I know if it is even working properly.
 

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