D40 overheating

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I cleaned my intercooler only a few months back, and the complete turbo air path.

The fan has ZERO resistance when hot or cold - it just free spins. And as pointed out it's not a "for life of engine" component, they do wear out and fail...
 
Cooked engine

I stuffed up.
Before we went on holidays, the D40 was packed and I did my regular check of the dipstick and coolant levels.
Kids in the back and away we go.
14 km down the road, the temp gauge shot up to the top and she died.
A bit of steam came out of the bonnet. The engine bay was green,and my coolant bottle cap was sitting loosely on top of the bottle. According to my scan tool, engine was 135C.
The radiator was dry. After a good half hour I tried to restart, it crank really quick like it had no compression.
I am assuming I have head problems.
What options do I have to get this fixed,repaired, replaced, or have I written off a 2007 D40?
What sort of dollars am I in for?
I've been told numbers from $3000 to $12000.
 
The best possible scenario (given the lack of compression) is that the head gasket has been blown out on all 4 cylinders and no other damage has been done. Done yourself, that's the cost of a head gasket and a torque wrench if you don't already have one.
 
What caused this to happen Bruce?, sadly once the gauge hits the maximum it's too late. I've blown a hose and the steam alerted me to look at the temp and it was a quick save. Hope you get a cheap answer, Tony's thoughts are a good starting point.
Cheers
 
And you didn't stuff up mate these things happen to the best of us. I'd love to see an audible alarm fitted to alert a driver to a sudden rise in temperature before damage occurs.
 
The best possible scenario (given the lack of compression) is that the head gasket has been blown out on all 4 cylinders and no other damage has been done. Done yourself, that's the cost of a head gasket and a torque wrench if you don't already have one.
diesels rarely ever blow head gaskets.
 
I'd love to see an audible alarm fitted to alert a driver to a sudden rise in temperature before damage occurs.
you can get them. aftermarket gauges can have programmable alarm setting.
i have egt and water temp rigged to a buzzer, if either goes over temp buzzer goes off.
whats better is low water sensor. a few vehicles have them fitted in stock form.
very handy especially where the radiator is lower than the engine.
 
^ that's the biggest killer. Coolant temperature is measured by having the sensor in coolant. No coolant = very poor thermal conductivity = very poor measurement of temperature and it's all over before you know it. Low coolant sensors are the best idea, and I'm just wondering how effective it would be in using a radiator hose adapter in the radiator's outlet and putting the sensor in there?

And yes I know it's hard to blow a head gasket in a diesel, but from an optimistic point of view that was the best-case scenario. It's better than the threads in all the glow plugs stripping and blowing the plugs out of the engine, or blowing holes in the crowns of all four pistons, or bending the valves so they're always open ...
 
Yes Tweak, I know those alarms are available and I should have one. What I did mean was Nissan ect should fit them as standard. Why do we need a taco?, "most" of us know how to drive??
 
Yes Tweak, I know those alarms are available and I should have one. What I did mean was Nissan ect should fit them as standard.
it would be nice.
especially tied to ecu so it reduces engine power.
vehicles are made to a price. customers want flash gizmo's rather than engine stuff they never see.
 
it would be nice.
especially tied to ecu so it reduces engine power.
vehicles are made to a price. customers want flash gizmo's rather than engine stuff they never see.
That's where trucks are good. They have level sensors in the header tank that triggers an engine shutdown as soon as the level drops even a small amount. Plus, an alarm sound and stop engine warning lights before the automatic shutdown....
 
brake reservoirs use a low level float switch maybe they an be adapted. heat will probably be an issue.

for radiators they don't use a float switch afaik. its more of an conductive sensor. i had one but never cut it apart to see what type of sensor it was.
 
So after changing my Viscous Fan Hub and driven it for a week i've noticed the following.

1. Fan is on quite a bit now - very audible especially when accelerating after stationary in traffice
2. Engine Coolant temps sit around the 94c mark and climb to 96/97 when the aircon is one
3. Even at 110km/hr the coolant temps sit around the 95 mark with aircon on
4. Climb a hill and the temps will rise 100/101c

Given the fan is suppose to cut in at 93C - you can see it's on most of the time.

This was on a 27-30 degree day.

Im assuming these YD25's run on the HOT side hence the 94 base temperature.

Any feedback on this?
 
So after changing my Viscous Fan Hub and driven it for a week i've noticed the following.

1. Fan is on quite a bit now - very audible especially when accelerating after stationary in traffice
2. Engine Coolant temps sit around the 94c mark and climb to 96/97 when the aircon is one
3. Even at 110km/hr the coolant temps sit around the 95 mark with aircon on
4. Climb a hill and the temps will rise 100/101c

Given the fan is suppose to cut in at 93C - you can see it's on most of the time.

This was on a 27-30 degree day.

Im assuming these YD25's run on the HOT side hence the 94 base temperature.

Any feedback or information on Temps when running?
 
i can't comment on d40 temps but those temps are fairly typical of most vehicles.

the fan, they partly run all the time due to the drag of the fluid.
when they kick in they really kick in with a lot of noise.
 
Would Viscous Cooling Hub for diesel work for Navara D40 petrol or different unit?

Hi all

Thanks for all the info on the forum to all contributors - bloody useful.

Loving the Navara... for the first three months. Then towing rib and the temp overheats so unable to turn the car over until it cools down.

Viscous cooling hub identified as the issue - apparently about 120k these are a real issue for Navaras if regularly towing.

Lot of helpful links for purchasing one online... but all appear to state they are for turbo diesel D40s... and I have the petrol (with computer chip, vroom vroom...;-)

Anyone know if can use the same unit in the petrol? Have done a fair bit of looking but can't seem to get an answer for this one.

Travel well

Matt
 
Black outlaw -

I put a dayco viscous fan clutch in when i hit 100,000k

I put two small bottles of extra silicone oil into it before i fitted it to make the fan run more often

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-FAN...B-10000CST-18ML-TUBE-/141853422998?nav=SEARCH

For some reason Toyota are the only manufacturer that sells easy to find high quality silicone oil

I'm not too worried about a little extra fuel consumption, just want the D40 to run a bit cooler

Now it runs at around 89 degrees most of the time, lifting to around 92-93 degrees up hills

Ive seen it get to 98 in summer with the new fan going up a monster hill, also had probly a tonne of gear on board, ladders on the roof etc

I can definitely hear the fan pumping away a lot more now than with the stock fan clutch

Main reason i did this was when we rebuilt after the timing chain snap, the mechanic and I had a good look at the new head, water jacket and thickness of the block in general amd decided this was not an engine that would like to get too warm

"like honeycomb" were the mechanics words
As in more holes than metal


For the record genuine nissan fan clutch was quoted at over a grand
 

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