EGR mod on d40

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EGR / oil can

Hey all , I just checked my egr pipe and found its full of gunk as well as crap in the intercooler hot pipes . The question is can I blank of the pipe or do I need to put in an oil catch can as well . I have been quoted it will take all day to fit an oil can but not told a price . Cheers
 
normally you blank off this pipe when the egr plate is fitted . have you fitted the egr blanking plate yet ? also whats this about a day to fit a catch can ?
someone needs some quick bucks.
 
+1 for Jonney's advice. Don't worry about the EGR tube, once you've blocked it you can forget it. As for the black oily stuff in the hot pipes and intercooler, you can fit a catch can and then wash the intercooler out (wash with petrol, allow to dry or an hour before reinstalling). Catch can fitting should take about half an hour in an equipped workshop, one hour at home, 6 hours if she's not wearing enough clothes and beckoning you inside, and 24 hours if you've invited mates over to help and they bring slabs of beer.
 
Hey guys, I bought a blanking plate off eBay but not sure if it's the right one. I unbolted what I think is the correct spot, the plate I bought seems to be the wrong shape and holes not big enough for the bolts to pass through. Is this the right plate or did I get the wrong one, and am I putting it in the right place. Thanks!

My Nav is a 2007 STX (spain).

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hi guys i new here so hello, just gone from a 05 td42 to the navara, fuel savings ect.. so i have started to read through this thread and it is long to say the least anyway i just brought a 2012 ST nav and have a couple of questions
- is it ok to do this mod to my 2012 d40 auto ?
-are the expected benifits - better fuel econ and more power?
any down side to doing this mod to my vehicle ?
thanks in advance
 
There might be an easily solved problem if you do block it off. Somewhere around 2011-2012 or so they introduced a flow sensor in the EGR valve so that if you blocked it, the Check Engine Light would come on. Drilling a 6 to 8mm hole in the middle should give it just enough flow to satisfy the sensor.

You might not notice much of a difference in power/economy. It'll be there, but it's not a huge difference. More difference will be found in the intake manifold which won't gum up with the mix that the EGR's diesel soot and the PCV's oil mist makes in there. You might notice less black smoke on takeoff.

The mod will not do any damage to your engine.
 
While it should only take about half an hour to make yourself, you can find them. I'd probably try this one, but take a look at your car first and make sure the shape is close. The gasket you're replacing is against the EGR valve, which lives on the end of a gold tube that runs around the front of the cylinder head.

There are others but they look more round in the middle - check yours first.
 
is there any tip for easier removal of the nuts of this egr pipe that is close to the turbo. there doesnt seem to be much clearance and I'd hate to strip those nuts. I want to blank it and just remove the egr pipe but those 2 nuts specially the one at the bottom.
 
That's the more difficult side. I tried removing mine with a breaker bar and discovered that the alternator would have to come off so I could apply the necessary force properly. I gave up and blanked off the other side.

If the threads strip or studs come out, you'll have a decent task ahead of you. It's because of the heat - that area of the engine will easily see 750C or better.
 
after doing all this, i did a road test and noticed that there's this loud whirling noise when I rev the vehicle (running) but when I rev it up when am on neutral, the sound isn't there. what could it possibly be? is it because I didnt bleed the coolant? how do i do this, I can't find the air relief plug (we dont have heater). or is it because of something else? I just removed the egr pipe and blanked both sides. the sound is coming from the egr valve side.
 
Sounds like an exhaust gas leak. Make sure that plate you have put on the egr valve side is properly sealed
 
bods,

you hit the jackpot. I checked again and found out that the plate installed isn't torqued properly. now the noise is gone. and I was able to remove the serpentine belt and cleaned it thinking that it might be the culprit as well. oh well :D
 
When installing the blanking plate on the drivers side of the engine. Where does the gasket need to go?
1 Between the plate and the engine.
2. Between the end of the pipe and the plate.
3. a gasket on both sides of the plate.
 
When installing the blanking plate on the drivers side of the engine. Where does the gasket need to go?
1 Between the plate and the engine.
2. Between the end of the pipe and the plate.
3. a gasket on both sides of the plate.

I re-used the original gasket between the engine and plate, then cut some vellumoid packing gasket paper for the other side. No issues 40 000ks later.
 
Recently did the EGR blocking plate on my 2010 Spanish D40 with a plazmaman hot pipe upgrade also, as the stock one looked to be leaking as was caked in dry oil on underside. Whilst I don't think overall power/torque has increased there is a definite noticeable difference in power and torque in the rev range of between 1500-2000 rpm. Turbo seems to spool quicker and is on the money earlier. If it was put on a dyno I'd believe you would see a higher curve in that lower rev range. As for fuel economy, I have seen approx 0.4l/100km drop in fuel which is good. All up for $170 of upgrades fitted in 20 mins I'm happy. Plazmaman pipe also gives its a better turbo spool sound which I enjoy.
 

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