D40 List of what to look for

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bax84

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2012
Messages
218
Reaction score
0
Location
Rockhampton QLD
Hey guys, not really a new member, been around for a while with a D22.

Looking at offloading it and buying a 2011 D40 ST with 110,xxx kms on it. (2010 build date)

What should I be looking at? Some people have told me they've got timing chain issues. What else should I be looking at?
 
A more reliable ute... just kidding... kinda.

Timing chain issues, clutch issues, shuddering auto issues?

Sent from my SM-G360G using Tapatalk
 
Any D40 by now ought to have most of its major issues rectified. The models with timing chain faults mostly would have had their failures by now, those that haven't had the faults would still be going strong. Torque converter faults were limited to a small number of cars.

Other ongoing issues with the D40s could occur at any stage. Turbocharger failures aren't limited to the D40, any turbocharger in any car could fail. The SCVs are known problem spots as are the actuator solenoids on the vacuum-controlled turbo models.

These issues aren't specifically perculiar to the D40, any make of car could have these faults. Thankfully we recognise the symptoms of these faults fairly well now and the components (apart from the turbo) aren't too expensive.
 
Any modern diesel = possible injectors, fuel pumps and turbo, and of course carbon build up as potential problems.

Sent from my SM-G360G using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys,

I’m looking at the manual and have heard about the dramas with the twin plate clutch? With the shuddering. But I’m not hugely concerned about that.

Most things I can handle, just the big dealbreakers that can stop the motor and cost me a tonne of cash in small amounts of time, exactly the opposite of what I want when buying a used car.

It’s 7 hours drive from where I am as well, hard to inspect in person until I’ve got a committed price.
 
The manual came from factory with a "dual mass flywheel" (DMF). Click here for the Wiki page on it. You'll have to ignore the "damage was caused by going solid flywheel" bullshit because it doesn't apply and I suspect the author of that section or the referenced information was talking about using vastly inferior clutch/flywheel combos.

The main problem (that the Wiki page doesn't even touch) isn't that parts of the DMF become unreliable. If you know how clutches work, you'll know where the problem is (and for those that don't know, read on).

The clutch itself is normally clamped against the back of the flywheel by the pressure plate. When you depress the clutch, the pressure plate relaxes its hold and the clutch slips against the flywheel. This disengages the engine from the gearbox allowing gearchanges or, through fine application of the pressure ("riding the clutch"), a partial transfer of power through the clutch.

It's this last aspect that's the actual problem. When you're reversing, or manouvering something heavy (boat up a ramp, caravan up a driveway) you tend to slip the clutch a fair bit. Fine? Not with a DMF.

The act of allowing the clutch to slip creates heat in the pressure plate, the clutch and the flywheel. Because the DMF's face is (necessarily) quite thin, it can't hold or transfer as much heat as a thicker (single mass) flywheel. It then overheats, the clutch overheats and the pressure plate overheats. Suddenly the pressure plate can't hold the clutch against the flywheel any more and the car stops.

If you have a manual D40 with a DMF fitted and it's giving you grief (gently driven, or minimal "riding", won't cause problems) then replacing it with an Exedy HD system will not only resolve the problem but it will fix it for good.

The wiki page doesn't do a great job of explaining why car makers fit DMFs either. It's actually rather simple. In any combustion engine, one cylinder is going to be pushing its piston down during its combustion phase, and the others won't be. Some of the others might be starting their compression stroke. As the piston reaches the bottom of its travel, the crankshaft slows down a fraction as the other cylinder reaches max compression. When that cylinder ignites, the crankshaft speeds up again. This slow-fast-slow-fast is absorbed by the springs in the DMF. If you have a SMF you might notice a little extra vibration while driving, especially at low revs.

So why do it? The car makers need to make the diesel engined vehicles (which have a larger speed differential in crankshaft rotation from combustion -> compression) more attractive to the mums and dads. It has to drive like a normal sedan, it has to be smooth like a normal sedan. Their attempts have actually worked - there are heaps of utes on the road nowadays!
 
Nicely put

I believe a lot of the BS out there about faulty clutches in 4x4s stems from soccer mums and suburban dads who have gone from falcons and barinas into turbo diesel 4x4s and think they can ride the clutch the same as you would in a corolla

The few people i know who have smoked a clutch were in their new baby, a new dual cab, and were playing on the beach

Didnt drive the thing like they should on sand and bam it lets out the smoke

Then whinge whinge stupid faulty clutch, crappy dual mass clutches etc
 

Latest posts

Back
Top