D21 Bible.

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Dave

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Looks at Doin and Pinelli and a few other guys for extra info.

I know there engine's etc and the chassis and body are almost identical to D22's.

Just dont know the small differences.
 
Looking for anything particular? Never had a D22 to compare mine to.
I do know the wiper stalks are different. Got a D22 wiper stalk sitting in the shed if anyone wants it.

Bought a D22 interior lamp once and it needed a minor electrical mod to get it going. Different earth connection or something. Was forced to get it for roadworthy believe it or not.
 
Just any info that use know.

Apparently D21 leaf springs are different to the D22.

Common mods and common faults that use know of.

Cheers.
 
TRANSMISSION DIMENSIONS

Handy for shipping quotes.

FS5W71C
(envelope incl. bellhousing and transfer case, wet weight)
L: 1160mm
W: 540mm
H: 390mm (levers detached)
H: 750mm (levers attached)
M: 100kg

FS5R30A

RE4R01A
 
MANUAL TRANS REMOVAL METHOD WITHOUT REMOVING TORSION BARS

I have tested this and it is 100% verified to work. It greatly reduces the work of a transmission swap.

This guide assumes that the engine is already removed. The fastest method to remove the engine is to first perform steps 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 11, and slide the gearbox input shaft out of the clutch to separate the engine and gearbox, then lift the engine out.

The key issue is that the gearbox is too long to drop out of the bottom of the vehicle without getting stuck on the front diff cross member, and the torsion bar cross member.

You will need to perform this removal on a soft surface such as a lush grassy lawn - something with some give in it.

You will need:
Sockets 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm.
Spanners open same.
Spanners ring same.
Inside circlip pliers.
Lifting apparatus analogous to an engine hoist or block & tackle.
A car jack.
Axle stands.
Rags.

This is a 1-2 person job.

1. Unbolt the rear tailshaft flange from the rear diff. (4 No. bolts)

2. Unbolt the centre tailshaft bearing bracket. Slide the two-piece tailshaft assembly from the back of the transfer case and set aside. (2 No. bolts)

3. Block the leaking gear oil at the back of the transfer case with rags; I'd also advise taping or otherwise restraining the rags inside the shroud.

4. Unbolt the front tailshaft from the transfer case flange. (4 No. bolts). It helps to cable tie the tailshaft up out of the way.

5. Disconnect all plugs, breather tubes and unbolt the clutch slave cylinder. It also helps to cable tie these out of the way. (2 No. bolts). On vehicles with OEM exhausts, you must unbolt the exhaust bracket from the transfer case (2 No. bolts).

6. Undo the gear knobs from the shifters. Pull the shifter trim boot back to reveal the top of the gearbox through the cab floor.

7. Accessing the top of the gearbox from the cab, pull back the black rubber boot around the bottom of the gear selector. Using the inside circlip pliers, release the circlip and remove the gear lever. Set aside.

8. Accessing the side of the gearbox from under the vehicle, undo the two bolts holding the transfer selector fulcrum in place and slide out, releasing the lever so it is only constrained at the bottom. Arrange the lever so it is not hanging down and vulnerable. (2 No. bolts)

9. Raise front of vehicle using jack and secure with jackstands. Remove jack.

10. Undo the nuts holding the transmission to the transmission cross member. Using a jack (the assembly weighs 100kg), lift the transmission up so that the bolts of the mount no longer pass through the cross member. (2 No. nuts).

11. Undo the bolts holding the transmission crossmember to the chassis. Set cross member aside. (4 No. bolts).

12. Lower jack so that transmission is resting - bellhousing on diff cross member, transfer on torsion bar cross member.

13. Using engine hoist or similar, lifting through the engine bay, sling the bellhousing such that when lifted the bellhousing will pass out of the transmission tunnel and into the engine bay, clearing the front diff.

14. Begin to lift the transmission out of the engine bay. SAFETY FIRST - the whole idea is that the back of the transfer case is going to fall off the torsion bar cross member and land on the ground. This can crush and kill. Ensure all people, pets and valuable stuff is clear of the drop zone.

15. When the assembly falls to the ground, begin to simultaneously work the transmission backwards along the ground as you lower the bellhousing back through the transmission tunnel to the ground. Release the sling on the bellhousing.

16. Drag the gearbox from under the vehicle. Raise vehicle with jack if required to clear bellhousing.

Installation is reverse-process, except using jacks to lift where required.

If this seems like a long process, look up the FSM method with torsion bar removal for perspective.
 
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TRANSMISSION DIMENSIONS

Handy for shipping quotes.

FS5W71C
(envelope incl. bellhousing and transfer case, wet weight)
L: 1160mm
W: 540mm
H: 390mm (levers detached)
H: 750mm (levers attached)
M: 100kg

FS5R30A

RE4R01A

L: 1180mm
H:350 at valve body, without leavers
H:600 include shifters (estimate)
Image to come.
 
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4WD FRONT SUSPENSION RIDE HEIGHT FACTORY ADJUSTMENT

Below is the method for setting ride height back to the maximum allowable height specified by Nissan.

Tools required:
Socket set
Spanner set
Ruler/tape measure
Level concrete surface
Jack & jackstands OR hoist

This is a one man job.

Last time I adjusted mine I was lucky enough to borrow a hoist:

BuildLog020_006_mod.jpg


Firstly you need a reference reading. Drive the vehicle onto the level concrete surface. Using the ruler, take two measurements as described in the image below, one between the ground and the bottom of the front steering stop bracket, and one between the ground and the centre of the lower link spindle. Subtract the larger from the smaller. This is your 'H' value. Repeat for the other side of the vehicle.

ride_height.jpg


The allowable range for 'H' is 41-51mm. Your aim is 51mm on both sides for max factory ride height.

If one or both of your 'H's is less than 51mm, you need to increase the preload on the torsion springs. Chock the rear wheels, jack the front of the vehicle up on the diff crossmember so that the wheels are off the ground, and install jackstands, lower the jack. Don't get under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Using a spanner and a socket with a ratchet arm, tighten the preload adjustment bolts at the back of the torsion bars. If one side of your car is lower than the other, tighten it proportionally more. Tighten maybe five full rotations, then it's time to take another measurement.

Lower the vehicle off the jackstands, and bounce the front by hand, then roll it forward 1-2m, then back 1-2m to settle the suspension. Take another pair of measurements as detailed below. Repeat the jack, preload, settle, measure process until you acheive the desired 'H' on both sides (~51mm if you want maximum ride height).

An alignment is probably advisable if your original H was way off your new H - I adjusted mine without an alignment and have found that my tyres wear unevenly.

A few notes:
- If you run out of preload adjustment, it's time to re-index your torsion springs. This is not covered in this guide as I have never needed to do it. This would only be required if your torsion springs have been mistreated, or if your vehicle has been lowered previously.

- This guide does not detail obtaining a 'lift' by adjustment of torsion spring preload. A "lift" involves exceeding 'H' by an unknown figure for a total of 2" of ride height increase. Note that any change in 'H' results in a greater change in actual ride height - H is just the vertical component of the triangle formed by the lower link arm.
 

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