3.0 litre EGR/Butterfly/Swirl Mod

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So, after picking myself up and getting it together following the immature amusement I found in Old Tony's comment, I got bored, then paranoid. This lead to checking egr pipes for cracks. No cracks, but leaking gasket at point 2 in this photo image-168473277.jpg Does anyone know where to block the egr to prevent it getting to this point so it doesn't leak? I'd rather just, to paraphrase Old Tony "rip it's nuts off to prevent testicular cancer" and block it I believe straight out of the exhaust manifold? Correct me if I am wrong in thinking this!? Can someone point me in the right direction and if possible provide a photo please?

Ps. I'm trying to think of solutions, I wouldn't go as far as saying I am mechanically retarded, just mechanically uneducated lol, so forgive my ignorance and stupid questions
 
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The problem is twofold - exhaust gas can leak out one side, and boost pressure will leak out the other. Seal the joins properly and neither occurs.

It's easy enough to do - head down to Supercheap or whatever your local auto parts place is and pick up a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue Sensor Safe Silicon Gasket Maker. Apply to the mating surfaces, bolt it up and forget it.

I put some on both sides of my blanking plate, pulled the pipe back so I had a nice gap and could put the plate in without dragging the sealant off on the edges, held it in place and stuck a bolt through, pushed it home and held it there while I did it up. Hasn't been a squeak out of it since.

You don't need to use a LOT, either. The gap is quite small, so a continuous bead around the mating face on both sides (if you've drawn the centre hole then you'll know where, it's around the outside of where the large hole would be) that's about 1mm wide and 1mm high is more than enough, particularly if your plate is nice and flat.
 
Thanks old Tony, I'll do that. I'll do the plate too while I am at it. I blanked the egr at point 1 in that photo but no signs of leaks there. I will put gasket goo both around the plate at point 1 and at point 2 (where the leak is)
 
I removed my bolts completely (you need to in order to get the gasket out and put the blank in anyway). With 5mm of clearance and a steady hand it's not too difficult, especially if you aim it at one of the faces it's supposed to sit against.
 
Hi guys.
I did the egr and butterfly mod today. Steel shop wanted a stupid price for only a scrap piece of stainless so I could make the plate so I just went and bought a stainless steel paint scraper and made it out of that haha. Just wanting to know if I have to have one of the sensor plugs unplugged or can they remain plugged in. I've swapped the vac lines around and still have all plugs in and it's running fine so is this all I need to do? Cheers
 
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Scoota said:
Hi guys.
I did the egr and butterfly mod today. Steel shop wanted a stupid price for only a scrap piece of stainless so I could make the plate so I just went and bought a stainless steel paint scraper and made it out of that haha. Just wanting to know if I have to have one of the sensor plugs unplugged or can they remain plugged in. I've swapped the vac lines around and still have all plugs in and it's running fine so is this all I need to do? Cheers
Click to expand...

You can unplug the red plug (Swirl Solenoid) but you don't have to. I've got mine unplugged atm and I haven't noticed a difference or had a problem but tweak'e rekons he's found it benficial. Your call. The plate and vac lines are the main part
 
Ok cheers. One more question, sometimes I can be driving along and my engine will cut out and lose power wont accelerate and when I take it out of gear it shuts off completely and I have to pull over. When I try to start it straight away it won't. The oil light is the only light that comes on. But if I let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes the engine light and glow light come on and it starts? Sometimes when it shuts off while still driving I just turn the key off then back on and it fires up again. Any ideas what this could be?
 
Scoota said:
Ok cheers. One more question, sometimes I can be driving along and my engine will cut out and lose power wont accelerate and when I take it out of gear it shuts off completely and I have to pull over. When I try to start it straight away it won't. The oil light is the only light that comes on. But if I let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes the engine light and glow light come on and it starts? Sometimes when it shuts off while still driving I just turn the key off then back on and it fires up again. Any ideas what this could be?
Click to expand...

I cant help much, except to suggest starting a seperate thread so more will see it as your question will get lost in here. Apparently you can pull codes on these things by manually bridging two ecu terminals with a bit of wire. Do a search as there are instructions on here how to do it. Ive never had to do it but its what I would be trying first if I were you. If you work it out post up results in a seperate thread and maybe someone will have more.
 
Scoota said:
Ok cheers. One more question, sometimes I can be driving along and my engine will cut out and lose power wont accelerate and when I take it out of gear it shuts off completely and I have to pull over. When I try to start it straight away it won't. The oil light is the only light that comes on. But if I let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes the engine light and glow light come on and it starts? Sometimes when it shuts off while still driving I just turn the key off then back on and it fires up again. Any ideas what this could be?
Click to expand...
^as Charlie said start a thread and you might find some more answers but the only help I can offer is an anecdote:

My old man had a shitty Rover years ago that would do that and it turned out to be a wire shorting on the body somewhere. Can't remember what wiring or where.

Good luck mate! Hope you find some answers quick and it isn't a total head f(ire tr)uck
 
Cheers guys. I had it on a diagnostic thing and no faults showed up ill have a look around the engine tomorrow to see if I can find any loose wiring.
 
Sammy_STR said:
Well after puttin it off for a few weeks (being to shit scared to attempt more like it) I have finally completed this mod. As an absolute, and I mean complete and utter mechanical amateur.. This mod is amazingly easy to do. Took me less than an hour, mind you most of that was checking and re checking my work to make sure it was right. All the photos provided were fantastic and once you dive into it it's really easy to make heads or tails of the diagrams. I purchased a meter of vac hose to be sure I wasn't left short and I used a total of none of it. All you need is there. Just think it out and make cuts carfuly. The result I have to say is minimal. There is a bit more down low and the turbo spools up quicker, mind you I'm fairly easy on the power pedal anyway.
This is a fantastic mod and I urge any novice who may be putting it off to get of your a** and do it. You won't be disappointed with the outcome and the feeling of getting it done.
Thanks to all the guys who have posted how to's on this thread. Made the job easy.
Sammy
Click to expand...

I have the plate ready to do this mod, but still sitting in the s%^t scared spot procrastinating.....
 
hey guys,
I just did the EGR+butterfly mod and now my turbo is whinning a lot, any ideas why? It is very loud in the cab and only starts when it goes over about 2000rpm, any help will be appreciated. thanks
 
depends on if its a whine or hiss and how loud it is.
could be the blocking plate is leaking.

if the turbo sounds like your at 3000 rpm at full throttle, but your at 2000 rpm, then thats normal. without egr and butterfly restriction, the turbo now runs at higher rpm which makes more noise. you will notice boost at cruise is a lot higher.
if the noise is really loud your turbo is either failing or you have a restriction in the intake ie dirty air filter (or split intake hoses).
 
I checked the turbo and that is fine, took off a couple of hoses and cleaned them and all the oil around it. Also the blanking plate and cleaned it, put it all back together and the noise has gone...hopefully forever haha. Although I did notice that oil was coming out of the hoses a bit still. Thank you every much tweak'e for your help.
 
oil in the hoses, fit a decent catch can.
trouble is once that oil gets on the hoses it makes them leak. clean them with degreaser before fitting them back on and even run the engine for a while with breather hose off. once the engine is hot the rubber pipes will stick to the tube and won't leak.
 
Just did the egr/butterfly mod. After loosening the egr pipe could not find any gasket between motor and manifold perhaps previous owner had played around already, seems ok so far. Have a warning light on dash but think it is related to this and will reset it as soon as possible.
 
I just had the EGR blocked on my D40 and I’m getting 50km LESS per tank than before. There are no other modifications to the engine except for a new double row timing chain.
Any ideas what to do?.
 
Since EGR is a combustion dampener (reduces the effectiveness of combustion) I'd be looking at some other cause. To be absolutely certain in your mind, you could unblock the EGR.

A leak around the blocking plate will cause issues, either losing boost from the intake side or losing exhaust pressure on the other side (which reduces the driving power for the turbocharger). Either will cause the engine to have to work harder to achieve the same results.
 

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