Rear Pinion Angle Correction

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ShortyNavros

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Hey Guys,

What should the rear pinion angle be on a D22 a stock height?

Should you get caster correction wedges to adjust it back to normal after a lift? If so what angle for what amount of lift?

I don't have an vibrations after my suspension lift, my rear raised 60-70mm but I would rather correct the pinion angle before I put extra wear an tear on my drive line unnecessarily.

Anyone with caster wedges that can shed light on this? I can't find whole lot of info on here or the net.

Cheers,
Shorty
 
Haven't heard of any pinion issues although you might find you'll chew out centre bearings more often with the prop shaft being on a steeper angle.
 
I'd suggest not to change anything. Hooke's joints cancel out their inherent pulsation in matched offset pairs with equal angles, caster correction wedges directly work against maintaining equal angles.
 
I'll be watching this, I'm about to add extended shackles which I'm told are illegal, other then that issue they tend to add a vibration at certain speeds, castor wedges tend to fix this issue but I have no idea where they fit nor what degree to use 1,2,3,5 degrees wedges.
So I'll keep an eye out on this and see what comes up.
 
I'll be watching this, I'm about to add extended shackles which I'm told are illegal, other then that issue they tend to add a vibration at certain speeds, castor wedges tend to fix this issue but I have no idea where they fit nor what degree to use 1,2,3,5 degrees wedges.
So I'll keep an eye out on this and see what comes up.

Between the leaf pack and the axle, on the leaf mount. What angle you need depends how much angle the pinion is on. Obviously that will vary depending on how big a lift you have..
 
That's actually what I figured, well I'll be running 2" Tough Dog with extended shackles. I figured if I need them I'd just go 3 degree wedge only coz it's in the middle if what's on offer so I figured its safest.
 
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That could be too much. The best option is to keep the pinion pointing up towards the center bearing, so the driveshaft goes on a straight angle down with the uni joint as flat as possible... If that makes sense, you might have to play with it a bit. It depends how much weight you carry and how often too. Because of the way the shackles move you'd probably want a slightly upward angle when empty, so when the springs compress the diff rotates down and levels out the angle...
 
Just remember to keep a bit of an angle or the universal joint bearings will flat spot. The universal joint bearings need to at least move to overlap so this doesn't happen. Just don't run at zero. Let the uni work a little.
 
Sweet cheers guys I never though about running at a slight angle and the effects on the Uni joint. Cheers I'll throw the shackles in and have a look how it runs and the angles it's on and decide what to do from there. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
Yeah a mechanical engineer I use to work with told me that when I had my SWB Patrol. I zeroed the uni on that and when he saw it he made the comment then that the pressure from accelerating and stopping would eventually stuff the uni due to flat spotting the needle bearings because they aren't actually rotating back and forth. Made scenes when I thought about it. I had adjustable top arms in the shorty so I just gave it a few degrease of angle. It didn't change how it performed at all.

Cheers Brad.
 
I just had a look in the workshop manual and I can't find any drive shaft angle figure which we are supposed to be using. All it lists is if you have tail shaft vibration you have to check the runout. Does anyone actually know what angle our rear tailshaft to rear diff pinion should be under stock conditions?
 
That's good information actually. Will be paying closer attention once the new shackles are in. Thanks shorty and all for the information.
 
I am working on mine also. I lifted mine only 2'' and my pinion angle is at 3 deg and the gearbox is at 7 deg ! I believe that the angles need to be with in .5 to 1 deg to each other and the diff pinion angle should be below centre as if it is set above it will cause the handling to become "skittish/darting" in the front end??
I have also noticed that the centre bearing is not sitting right and is pulled out towards the rear end of the 4b? I am hoping that a 2.5 to 3deg shim will fix the angle and place the centre bearing back in its right position or I may need to add a tail shaft spacer ?
I'd say its a combination of the two problems that are causing the shudder/vibration.
I'm also interested on any input and any info' on the standard Pinion Angle? cheer vic
 
Just a read up I found , it seems I read one thing and think I have it worked out then I read another post and get another perspective grrr it's tricky ! I checked my angles again with the tail shaft completely removed and have 4.5 to 5 degrees "DOWN" on the gear box main shaft and 3 degrees "UP"at the diff pinion .. Also The best way to do it is with a digital inclinometer! You can get an app for most phones..
I'm thinking I will only need a 2 degree shim but that will raise the diff pinion angle to 5 degrees and I have read that 3 degrees "UP" is the maximum ? Anyone care to chime in?
So if what I now read is right, I am thinking I may have to raise the gear box with a shim??
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/drive_shaft_harmonics.php
The centre bearing or load bearing "I think" will need to be dropped and moved to correct positioning and angle. also... what a head fcuk !
 
Yup just spoke with Mick Zara who's a hot rod/ dragger who knows his shite and said you can go past 3 degrees up on the diff put wouldn't suggest it and recommended lifting the gearbox up to 3 degrees and go from there! has anyone else done this- lifted the gearbox? cheers
 

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