iDRIVE - worth it?

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bekka22

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Hi guys and gals,

Has anyone brought one of these and got a review? Is it worth buying? Have you noticed much improvement?

Thanks!
 

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After a quick Google, it is a type of windbooster, but you can make adjustments while you are driving.
 
Name's a little confusing, there are other products out there with the same name. One belongs in a BMW.

This guy looks like a Windbooster as John suggests. It adjusts the throttle response, basically.
 
New member with 3 posts, all asking the same thing = spam i'd say.
 
My personal opinion on products like iDrive:
I have installed this product on my Honda Freed which is automatic transmission.. I can feel the throttle differences.. so I would like to conclude, it only performs well with automatic transmission.

what this little guy do was just changing the values on throttle opening valve.. so if the IDrive was adjusted to Power Mode (step 1-9), when the actual throttle is pushed at 20%, the valve is opening at 30%.. on the other side, when adjusted to Economy Mode (step 1-7), actual throttle pushed at 20%, the valve is just opening at 10%..
it works something like that..

so if you install this guy on a manual transmission, you'll just confused your own throttle position.. it doesn't crank up the engine performance, it just manipulate the throttle voltage..

hope this help..
 
You could push harder, but there's something mentally satisfying about not pushing your foot as far and getting better results than you did before with that amount of foot movement.
 
OK guys, what is the consensus on these Windboost/iDrive gadgets 2 years on?

They seem to be a throttle response improvement tool?

Throttle response being a huge issue with a D22, I'm all ears!

But..... having previous life experience with a highly modded 250cc two stroke motocross bike, I'm aware that too much of a good thing ain't so good lol! (eg, getting whacked in the chest by the fuel tank when too much right hand was applied)

Thoughts?
 
It depends how much you want to spend really. I find with my 2010 d22 that having blocked the egr and fitted a straight through exhaust that I have great throttle response from basically idle. I get full boost about 1250rpm from memory and don't have any trouble running down to around 1000rpm when just plodding around town. Stick the boot in though and she goes pretty well for only having 98kw... Plus mine is probably up around the 2.5t mark as it sits at the moment... I really should try and weigh it again.
 
It depends how much you want to spend really. I find with my 2010 d22 that having blocked the egr and fitted a straight through exhaust that I have great throttle response from basically idle. I get full boost about 1250rpm from memory and don't have any trouble running down to around 1000rpm when just plodding around town. Stick the boot in though and she goes pretty well for only having 98kw... Plus mine is probably up around the 2.5t mark as it sits at the moment... I really should try and weigh it again.

What I'm really after is, as an example, If I open up the muffler on a two stroke, clean up the exhaust ports & transfers, then re-tune it so it doesn't grenade, it will SCREAM from idle, compared to a stock one. No extra torque, nor power, just sheer crazy acceleration.

Will these gadgets do similar in a diesel?
 
They won't do any more than simply pushing your foot down harder on the pedal. All they do is amplify the throttle input, so depending on the percentage you have it set up for, depends how much it amplifies it. Pretty much like adding an amplifier to a sound system. Same input level, but more output.

So, you could just drop the pedal to the floor everytime you drive and will achieve the same result.
 
^ Which is pretty silly, when you think about it. You pay (whatever) so that something else can push your foot down a little harder (and a couple of milliseconds sooner). There's no change in tune and no change in top end output or engine efficiency.

Actually when you think about it, in a manual it should make fuel economy worse because it'd be opening the throttle more than needed for efficient acceleration. In an auto it may be different ...

I posted some time ago the difference in fuel consumption in my auto from 0-50km/h at a nominal 2,000rpm and at 2,500rpm (yes, only a minor difference but it's at a vital point in the rev range). You'd think that at 2,500rpm you're going to be using extra fuel - and yes, you will - but in the auto, the torque converter is right near its "stall speed", which is the point where the TC will not lose as many RPM in the transfer from engine to gearbox. The end result was that accelerating at 2,000rpm used less fuel but wasted so many RPM and took longer to get to 50km/h, so in the end used more fuel to achieve the same goal. The Windbooster/iDrive/whatever will actually assist by forcing your foot down harder and giving the same result.

The best advice I could give - use your own foot and save the $.
 
i see manufactures have this sort of thing built in.
power/economy mode which simply changes the responsiveness of the throttle.
a few reports of them being absolute pigs to drive when in "power mode" as it tends to be full throttle or nothing.
however some find the economy setting worth while.

the other quirk is sometimes manufacture tune it so there is a delay in throttle to give the EGR system time to react. ie reduce egr before your pour heaps of fuel in so you don't cook the pistons.
 
i see manufactures have this sort of thing built in.
power/economy mode
which simply changes the responsiveness of the throttle.
a few reports of them being absolute pigs to drive when in "power mode" as it tends to be full throttle or nothing.
however some find the economy setting worth while.

the other quirk is sometimes manufacture tune it so there is a delay in throttle to give the EGR system time to react. ie reduce egr before your pour heaps of fuel in so you don't cook the pistons.

Yeah, I had it in a Falcon, but it was through the trans, not the engine. The guy at the Auto service centre where I used to take it called it the "BS" button.
 

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