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  #11  
Old 01-12-2019, 08:22 AM
D40-4Life D40-4Life is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericcs View Post
the EGR blank will stop, or at least reduce the amount of black smoke, not increase it.
With the upper control arms, my understanding is it affected the Thai models more. No problem on mine with 2.5"extra lift, just needed a wheel alignment.
You and Czechmate have convinced me about the EGR blanking. There is a kit available from Poland on eBay that comes with gaskets. No more than $20.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-valv...EAAOSwxada-Baf

I think I'll order it. but how to handle the Error codes that it will trigger?

I heard that it was more difficult to get a wheel alignment on the Spanish model. I'll have to recheck my facts.

I read this post by 4.8GU and a few others
http://www.navara.asia/showpost.php?...2&postcount=14

Quote:
OK I will say it again in this thread just so people don't get misled. There is no way with standard upper control arms that you can get any more than approx 30mm of lift over STANDARD height suspension while still retaining some form of down travel. You may get more over sagged height suspension but that is not a realistic figure.
That led me to believe along with Zordos advice that UCA was necessary for appropriate down travel provided that some coil tower metal is either cut or bent. I have also heard from a suspension shop that the D40 didn't need UCAs. So a little unsure now.

Horatius wrote: A gvm upgrade sounds good, suspension upgrade too but I hope you don't mind some advice. Or more something just to keep in mind.

Thanks for the tip, I don't mind it at all. I drive more on the conservative side with all my vehicles. I suppose, I will plan going in convoy on those remote trips with the Nissan Club if the opportunity arises. I have been told that corrugations is the killer and that along with a top grade suspension upgrade, taking it leisurely with lots of breaks is the way to tackle these trips. Hard for me to know until I do it.

I hope your D40 serves you well


It has to 130K and I think it will serve me well beyond now that I am aware of some of these issues that might pop up. I thought about upgrading to the NP300 but it just felt small and I wasn't so sure about the rear indy suspension or weight carrying ability. The D40 has the right mix of kit and comfort for me, but I have learnt that its not as bomb proof as the old 4runner I had prior. Its more delicate. Still, if I can get another 150-200K out of it, I will continue to keep it.

Last edited by D40-4Life; 02-12-2019 at 02:40 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:12 AM
D40-4Life D40-4Life is offline
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Repeat Post

Last edited by D40-4Life; 02-12-2019 at 02:32 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:49 PM
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Ive got the old man emu heavy duty 2 inch lift with OME nitrocharger sport shocks
This is the second set of nitrocharger sports ive had, i bloody love them they really firm up what is usually a too cushy ride on a d40. Plus they're made here in Adelaide and we should all be supporting Aussie manufacturing, especially high end performance products
In the US they really get behind the "Buy American" ideology, but here we tend to buy whatevers on sale regardless of what the product actually is
To get back om track;
With this 2 inch lift, the wheel alignment specialist at mclaren vale tyres was only just able to get the front wheels at 90 degrees to the road
Usually youd have a little bit of negative camber, but that is a real challenge for lifted d40s
Really you're just trying to avoid any positive camber as thats bad news for any vehicle except nascar racecars

On the bash plates yes theres one that covers the transfer case, ive just had mine off to replace the transfer fluid

The Davies craig cooler is fairly easy to mount yes, i put mine bottom left of the radiator, behind a big hole in the bullbar for maximum airflow
I just had to make up some bushing mounts out of brass tubing with bolts slid through
Ill get photos when it stops raining here
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  #14  
Old 02-12-2019, 02:55 AM
D40-4Life D40-4Life is offline
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KevinE wrote: That's a massive amount of weight to be dragging across the desert!

yeah, I reckon I can go lighter on the Simpson and lighter still for the Cape, but I will be pushing it on the CSR. Just some of the places I intend for this setup to go to.

Combine that with the kind of weight you're thinking of taking & the way you'll have to drive to push all of that weight up & over the sand dunes.

Thats a concern, but I was hoping a top notch suspension setup will help.

Czechmate wrote : With this 2 inch lift, the wheel alignment specialist at mclaren vale tyres was only just able to get the front wheels at 90 degrees to the road

I looked at the lower control arm on mine and it only has the adjustment plate on the rear fork. I was told that better versions of D40 had them on both front and rear.

I just had to make up some bushing mounts out of brass tubing with bolts slid through
Ill get photos when it stops raining here


That would be great.

Last edited by D40-4Life; 02-12-2019 at 02:41 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2019, 03:00 AM
D40-4Life D40-4Life is offline
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Hey guys, trying to respond, but keep getting my post awaiting moderation. Don't know why.
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2019, 10:03 AM
Tappet Tappet is offline
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The timing chain upgrade would be good thing to do or at least get it checked. There is some horror stories about D40 timing chains but some do use a different chain. Mine is a 11/11 Thai build I've had it checked and it's there is minimal deflection.

Changing the oil and filter every 5000K is probably over kill but can be good insurance. Use a good quality oil and filter.

Change the fuel filter every 10,000K minimum. Use a high quality fuel filter. Some put in a secondary fuel filter but some CRD'S get a bit iffy with a second filter. Then you have to add a lift pump... Keep is simple.

I'm in the keep it pretty stock school. There is an old adage- you play you will pay. However there is 3 things I have done engine wise. I put in an EGR blanking plate when it almost new. Catch Can and muffler delete. That got me .5l better per 100 k. Variable vane turbos often don't benefit from larger bore exhaust. Although there is some out there who have spent big money on exhaust who would beg to differ.

Suspension- A lift is a must. There is lots of different approaches, theory's and counter theory's. I prefer a mono tube gas shock/dampener. They just have so much resistance to fade over dual tube shocks. Corrugations is where mono's shine. There is a draw back though if your mono tube on the back cops a rock it's f'd. You can put guards on them tho. I ended going EFS rear and Dobinsons HD front with Bilstiens all round and it works a treat. Thing rides like a limo, handles big bumps great and got over 2 inch at the front. Took 2 goes to get it right.

Above all else, keep it light. Do you really need that bull bar, winch and bash plates. Do you really need the kitchen sink. I have to pull the misses up all the time. I tell her make believe your building a formula one. There is a another old adage take half of what you think you will need and twice the amount of cash.

Edit- Forgot to mention a Trans cooler that is independent from the engine cooling system is a great idea. It will keep the transmission cooler for better longevity and it takes thermal load off the engine cooling system.
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Last edited by Tappet; 02-12-2019 at 11:34 AM.
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2019, 01:17 PM
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The toyotas such as the 4runners and 90s hiluxes, the nissan d20 and early pathfinders, and the mazda b2000 - b2600 utes were and still are more reliable and sturdy than anything (excepting landcruiser 79 series) built now. They were still actually built in japan for one
They were so over engineered for the amount of factory power and weight. The diffs on my 98 mazda bravo are probably even bigger than the ones on the d40, and that only has half the torque of the d40 from a 2.6 litre petrol
The 5 speed manuals in b2600 bravos are good for 200+ kilowatt rx7s

For a newer outsourced ute, the d40 is pretty robust

Obvious failure points are the famous timing chain, mainly 05-09 STXs and pathfinders built in spain
(already mentioned in this forum a thousand times but mine snapped at 70,000 kilometres and lunched the head)

Thats courtesy of an underspecced chain from a french supplier in the Nissan Europe group. Probably nissans fault for not checking the chain more closely before fitting it to a million japanese engines

The other major weak point is the front diff, i figure when it goes bang, then ill worry about something bigger and better. Not a huge expense and front lockers are an extra cost on any new ute anyway
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2019, 02:39 PM
D40-4Life D40-4Life is offline
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I had a manual 4Runner during the 90s. What a great SUV that was. a pity we had to sell it. Nothing ever went wrong with it.

Quote:
mine snapped at 70,000 kilometres and lunched the head
Did you get yours serviced by Nissan?

Aren't they suppose to keep an eye on the timing chain if they knew it was suspect?



Quote:
The other major weak point is the front diff, i figure when it goes bang, then ill worry about something bigger and better. Not a huge expense and front lockers are an extra cost on any new ute anyway
So front lockers will add strength to the front diffs?

Quote:
Changing the oil and filter every 5000K is probably over kill but can be good insurance. Use a good quality oil and filter.
I was told never use anything else except Nissan Coolant. Water or anything else will allow rust and the transmission issue.

Quote:
Above all else, keep it light. Do you really need that bull bar, winch and bash plates. Do you really need the kitchen sink.
Tough call. A roof top tent is super handy but can you live without it in the Desert?

Quote:
Edit- Forgot to mention a Trans cooler that is independent from the engine cooling system is a great idea.
Okay, another vote for the trans cooler

Quote:
They just have so much resistance to fade over dual tube shocks. Corrugations is where mono's shine. There is a draw back though if your mono tube on the back cops a rock it's f'd.
Been told that its the rear right shock that is exposed. If a guard can be placed there, than Bilsteins might be the way to go. I suppose Billies will be better on corrugations than twin tubes but I heard Bilsteins are more stiff.

Last edited by D40-4Life; 02-12-2019 at 02:49 PM.
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2019, 08:59 PM
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I think I'll step in now, the above advice is brilliant.

My own 2009 D40 STX 2.5L has seen over 325,000km and we just did another run to Bathurst towing the caravan (hence my absence from here). I've never replaced the timing chain (although it's been checked several times). I have replaced the radiator (once), the turbocharger (twice), the gearbox (not through a total failure of the gearbox, but through the incompetence of the supposed transmission specialist we asked to fix the TCC). I've been through 3 BCSs and now use a Tilix valve instead, replaced the vac hoses twice myself, replaced the SCV once and had to replace the DPF sensors.

Otherwise, it's been a case of driving moderately (and sometimes it could be called "too gently". I monitor coolant temps closely - the number one sign that the engine is overworking. I have an alarm set for 105C and I rarely trigger that - 105C is no danger to the car, but that's where I decided my limit is. I removed my large driving lights to allow more airflow through the front. The result is an engine that is still purring over 300K km later.

As for desert travel - I believe my car could do it. I've got a steel bullbar up front, but I've removed the winch to save a little weight (and I hardly ever used it). I've got a canopy with a solar panel feeding an auxiliary battery in the back which powers an Engel as a fridge and an Aldi Stirling as a freezer.

For desert work, I carry a pair of recovery tracks, a long-handled shovel, my ARB air compressor and a portable toilet with a tent, air mattress and good sleeping bags (it can get really cold at night).
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  #20  
Old 03-12-2019, 03:03 AM
D40-4Life D40-4Life is offline
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Quote:
I've never replaced the timing chain (although it's been checked several times).
How often Kms do you get the timing chain inspected?

Quote:
I have replaced the radiator (once).
Is this due to the corrosion issue?

Quote:
I have an alarm set for 105C and I rarely trigger that
Thats a great idea.

Tony, have you upgraded GVM? or just done the chassis weld plate?
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