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Cabin Body Mounts
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:28 AM
Horatius Horatius is offline
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Default Cabin Body Mounts

Hi all. Have recently had a look over the body mounts looking for causes of certain sounds during low speed cornering. The drivers side looks fine but a couple on the passengers side look a bit iffy.

The immediate problem is the rear one on the drivers side cab though. The mount looks fine but the bolt is loose. It will neither tighten nor loosen any more, it just spins, so whatever it bolts into has broken. I can't find any obvious way to access this. It doesn't seem to go through to the cabin. The only way I can think of where I might be able to do it, would involve lifting the tub off, taking the plastic vent off the rear, and trying to access it through there. Anyone know anything about it, or got any ideas?
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:50 AM
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From memory you can get to them by removing the rear seat belt reel from beside the seat. That gets you into the same area as removing the vent on the rear of the cab anyway so I'd give that a go first...
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Old 02-12-2019, 08:07 PM
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As said it should be accessible through the inside of the cabin.
Yes a loose bolt will definitely give you those noises.
There should be a large washer and nut on the inside, I don't think the bolt actually screws into the body.
Maybe the thread has worn rubbing on the body causing it to not tighten or loosen. The mounts don't wear down but instead ream the hole wider causing movement sideways.

Keep us informed if you buy any mounts with part numbers for future reference.
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:52 PM
Horatius Horatius is offline
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Thanks fellas, I'll take the seatbelt reel out and give that a go. It might only be stripped, but it doesn't feel like it. It seems to spin too easily. Will know more when I can access it to find what is going on.
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:12 AM
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Well, I took the seat belt reel out and I don't doubt it is the same cavity, but no chance of gaining access to where I require by trying to shove your arm in there.

There is a grommet behind the cabin that allows access. Got to take the rear wheel off to get at it. I can feel what is going on. It isn't held by a nut as such but a square steel block maybe 20 mm thick by about 32 mm square. This is held in place by a bracket that is welded to the body.

In this instance the bracket is broken off, as I thought, and the block is free spinning. Won't tighten or loosen. No chance of getting a spanner in there to hold it either as the access hole isn't big enough. Trying to make something up to hold the nut from the top while I turn the bolt, but without much luck so far.

It's looking more and more like cutting an access hole in the floor is the only way.
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Old 03-12-2019, 04:33 AM
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Well, fooled around for half a day and finally gave up. Seems only two options.

Either take the tub off and try to get tools in from the rear vents, which should work but no guarantee. Or just put a 50 mm hole saw through the rear floor behind the seat and get at it that way. Maybe just screw a bit of sheet over it when finished.

The second option is looking the most promising. A pita either way.
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:51 AM
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Well that sucks. I'm going to guess that "nut" as such has a thread in it that the bolt screws into from under the body mount? You're right though, that is a pain. I would assume that bit that is supposed to hold it in place is only spot welded in there from the factory so obviously doesn't hold up real well...
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:14 AM
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Yes bods you're right in both instances, the bracket is only held on by a couple of spot welds and it does suck lol.

Though I understand why it happened. I recently noticed the drivers "side step" was loose which accounted for some of the clunking. On inspection one of the mounting bolts under the drivers floor had actually fractured the metal and torn a hole through the floor. Yes, they've taken an absolute hammering over the years to say the least. Plenty of occasions where they have held the whole weight of the car (otherwise known as "getting stuck" lol). I fixed it up but it looks like such activities over the years have also taken a toll on the body mounts and the particular bracket. Funnily enough, the small amount I was able to loosen it helped ease the clunking sounds when I took it for a run.

I don't think a hole behind the rear seat will be of much consequence, I'll just get any swarf out rust proof the area and cover it with some gal sheet. If I had a small mig I'd weld the bracket back into place. Instead I think I'll use a nylock nut and large thick washer. I might as well just replace all the mounts. Not cheap, they're genuine parts, no one seems to make aftermarket ones.
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2019, 11:14 AM
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If you send Garry from nizzbits a pm (if he's still around) he can get genuine parts pretty reasonably priced.

Sounds like your fix may be the best option, at least you shouldn't have to worry about them for a while with any luck...
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:15 PM
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Bugger, I would cut a hole.
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2011 D22 2.5Cr. Fuel cap holder, bonnet scoop protection, Bonnet protector, Tint, Snorkel, tub liner, Tow bar, Bash plates, Sliders, Sus lift, DVD headrests, Idler Arm Brace, P Bull bar, Winch, Canopy, Dynapro ATM's, Alarm, Slim weather shields, EGR mod, +120's, 9' LED's, LED parkers, Seat covers, Variable intermittent wiper stalk, Dash mat, DVR mirror with reverse camera.
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