arrggghhh wont start.

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Bunkyone

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Pinjarra
d21 td27t wouldnt start, replaced starter motor with a brand new bosch and ran fine for last 2-3 days.

today however wouldnt start and got a bump start to get it running.

got home and checked 13.5V on battery while running and 12.5v off.

tried starting after checks and dark grey smoke from starter region.:pissedoff:

now i have no glow plug light on the dash, but relay is still clicking and no movement from starter. battery and oil light is DIM very hard to see.

i have experienced the dim battery and oil light before and had to replace a fuse link by the battery. i have checked these and they are all fine.

anyone able to give some advice, prefferebly before i bang my head too hard against this innocent wall.

much thanks
 
ok so fixed it after standing on my head for an hour.

was the muffler bearing and intake dampener, haha no

Alternator pivot bolts (the two at the bottom) were missing. loose belt = no charging = no start.


charging at 15v and battery now 12.8v rested


this place always gives the answer!
 
I was thinking of giving an answer but the smoke you described sounded more like an electrical issue than friction burn from the belt. Glad it's fixed!.
 
wish it was........, gremlin woke up again! arrgghhh so glad this is my recreational4x4 and not my daily drive.

same issue no crank and no glow light, dim battery and oil light (assume battery again)

park light and seat-belt light stay on even in ACC and off position (short/ backfed voltage?)

I have checked batttery 12.6v although arc is very weak on test shorting compared to yesterday.

i tried bypassinjg solenoid starter wire, no luck. this is a brand new less than a week old bosch

tried a tow start, no luck today, glow circuit isnt on, so charging the battery overnight and see where that gets me.

only "breakthrough'' i have had tonight is disconnecting the battery and reconnecting "clears'' the lights on under off issue and shows glow light but no starter relay or starter movement. and then returns to a "latched on" state

i have disconnected the plug from the back of the ignition to rule out the ignition from the equation. and when i test between ACC and ON at the ignition plug my tester which would show from 1 - 0 goes blank

kind of over the Paste in the engine bay connectors though....

I also did a continuity test between the 8 pin plug in the engine bay and ignition plug and found no "short" but from the 8 pin plug by the battery to the starter/oil pressure sensor i found two cables with continuity to the Black/yellow starter switch wire

i can only assume battery drain and chase this gremlin through the wiring. to find the fault.

is there anyone near mandurah/pinjarra area with a bit more experience with these
Navaras i could borrow the knowledge off of.

help is greatly appreciated, begging wil be preformed if necessary.
 
12.6 volts for a resting battery is fine and it should crank over ok. I'd suspect some sort of earth or connection problem. I'd pull the starter out and see if you can fire it manualy. It could have a fault, but these problems are a process of elimination and can be hard to trace. A mobile auto sparky would charge $100 just to turn up, but it may stop you pulling your hair out.
Cheers.
 
id love $100. haha

thinking starter solenoid is jammed open, but i cant see how that would explain the "on" circuit being fed as the starter and ON are exclusive circuits.

looks like the oil pressure sensor wire and starter switch wire are shorting. so im pulling the starter out and seeing if i can start the starter manually.

facts at the moment;

glow circuit lamp wont light after first turn of key to start.
battery has sufficient charge and has been topped up overnight.
can see a short between oil pressure sensor wire (yellow w/ blue stripe)

trying to locate a dash wiring harness schematic as i suspect that oil pressure switch being a positive feed may be throwing the latch on the dash lights (back feeding) through the cable to the dash.

ill update progress
 
yeah i know, rac came out and high tailed it out of here. hahahahahaha

so update. something is latching on the "on" circuit relay under the kick panel and the only way to disengage the relay is to pull it out or disconnect the battery.

so im still looking for a short or bum switch/relay between the cab and engine.

my starting issues are linked to this as whilst the power is on the glow circuit cant engage and starter circuit wont engage.

oh where is dion when you need him........
 
i have switched the blue relays over also to rule them out. i beleive that i am looking at a backfeed somewhere. im going to check the radio........
 
pulling ballast resistor and/or disconnecting the 8 pin plug by battery clear the latch. now i worked out also that the relays in the fuse box in the cab are left for ON and right for ACC only when disconnecting ACC relay the lights on the dash will go out in any key position.

so CB radio and Radio are getting pulled out and wiring checked

also when ballast removed the lights dont latch on, now why would that resistor cause an issue?

if anyone has a wiring schematic of the glow circuit i could grab that would be great.

cheers
 
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so decided to test continuity between engine and eath on chassis and battery and see some power between the block and battery.

stab in the dark, solenoid is jammed on and loop is feeding ignition through glow plug circuit.


EDIT there is potential difference between block and battery. ha ha i am just tired.
 
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Could be an internal fault with the ignition barrel. Have you tried "hotwiring" it to rule out dodgy contacts inside the barrel? Or can you change the barrel to see if that helps?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
i pulled the plug from the ignition and hot wired. The ON position is being latched via the relay as it sticks on either for a minute or two and i have to pull the relay or disconnect the battery.

i tried disconnecting the ballast resistor which to my annoyance sometimes resolved the issue

same with the 8 pin connector plug harness (gearbox switches/oil pressure/starter switch/diesel solenoid) to which i removed the harness and inspected the cables for damage. no luck there.

I might throw a new earth from the housing of the starter (lower bolt on flange) to the battery.

Going to wiring up a "hot wire" for the glow/starter/diesel solenoid. by bypassing the harnesses i should at least get the engine started that way.

maybe puling at straws here, but this is a simple no ecu TD27t i should be able to start it as if it were on a pallet.
 
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Yep, if you can get fuel through and can turn it over it will start... That's the good thing about old school diesels haha

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
raining....yuk

OK so....

testing the ignition connections. when power is introduced to the "ON" position the on cable (black with white stripe) shows 12.7v and then removed it shows 7.8v

The starter Wire (black with yellow line) shows the same and if i ground either cable they both return to ''off" state.

if i disconnect the starter motor wire (B/Y) i cannot use the starter to earth out and disconnect the relay. but still having the latching issue points to a short somewhere in the loom between the ignition and engine bay.

no luck starting with hot wire method, i think starter is burnt out from the shorting cables. back to the garage to swap the tested starter out.
 
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arrrrggghh wont start

arrggghhh wont start.
Views: 272
Posted By highway man
Wont Start

Good Morning!

It might be a good time to check your Starter Switch and Key action!

might help,
highway man,:deadhorse2:
 
wont start

I am in the middle of replacing my Drivers door Hinges and Sleeves, so cannot
drive her until about Wednesday, I am about twelve Miles North of you and will
drop down into the Deep South for you if you are still grounded and need some help!

highwayman,:deadhorse2:
 

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